What does a CPS sensor problem act like?
I connected autotap and all the sensors looked ok (swapped the O2 sensors
just to be safe). I also swapped the plugs, and noticed they all had a lot of carbon on them (as if the car was running consitantly too rich). For kicks I put a MAFT on the car and leaned it way out, but it didn't solve the problem. I'm wondering if its possible my crank or cam position sensors are bad? How would I verify that using autotap?
Also, how can I test the coils?
Thanks,
Terry
if none, maybe someone turned off codes for them such as misfires via a tune.
If there were coil problems again then there should be misfire codes for the cylinders having the problems.
I connected autotap and all the sensors looked ok (swapped the O2 sensors
just to be safe). I also swapped the plugs, and noticed they all had a lot of carbon on them (as if the car was running consitantly too rich). For kicks I put a MAFT on the car and leaned it way out, but it didn't solve the problem. I'm wondering if its possible my crank or cam position sensors are bad? How would I verify that using autotap?
Also, how can I test the coils?
Thanks,
Terry
misfires looking for single-cylinder vs all-cylinder problems.
That will kind of tell you where to go next (plugs/wires/
injectors/coils vs "global" sensors etc.
Like I said I tried the maft, and also swapped mafs just for kicks, with no effect.
classes of failure; I would be more worried about the
insulation breaking down, than burning wires open. The
insulation you would not see, necessarily, with a low
voltage ohmmeter.
If the commanded AFR at idle is that low then something
is pretty funny. You might check for abnormal ECT and IAT
readings, maybe it "thinks" it is still in cold start? Pull &
reseat the temperature sender connector (or see if chunks
come off along with the connector)? Not sure about ATAP,
whether this air fuel ratio is the commanded or some attempt
to guess by O2 voltage (but believe it is the commanded).
There should be a Fuel Air Multiplier PID which is the flip side
of the commanded AFR and this should be 1.0 for warm idle.
If it isn't then I would suspect some temp sensor malfunction
that prevents the car from entering closed loop and jacks the
mixture around. Don't know of any other mixture-bending
sensors but I suppose there might be some.
Like I said I tried the maft, and also swapped mafs just for kicks, with no effect.





