A clean MAF is a happy MAF
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A clean MAF is a happy MAF
This is an excerpt from another post I replied to, but I thought I should post it by itself for those who didnt happen to read the other one. Could have save myself some trouble....
I was seeing some pretty high LTFTs; Idle +16, light throttle +6-8, and higher throttle(non-wot) +4-6. This was with the stock screened maf and stock IFR/MAF tables.
At the time I had a modified PCV and intake path (TNT ring, coupler, and air bridge) after the MAF. I put those back to stock one at a time, thinking I may have had an air leak, and retested... no change in the the LTFTs. So, next I picked up a can of electrical component cleaner from radio shack and some q-tips. Cleaned the MAF sensor wires/resistors and took it out for a spin. +4-6 at idle(probably the cam and mod. VE table), 0 to +3 light throttle, and -3 to 0 at heavier non-wot throttle... wot zero'd out. The LTFTs were also reset after each change.
I would have saved a ton of time if I had cleaned the maf first. If you do, just be careful, as it does not take much force to damage the resistors. I just shot it pretty good with the cleaner and then using a soaked q-tip lightly rubbed the q-tip over the risistor and wires.
Prior to this I did some playing around with the PCM, but had to some numbers larger than I liked and not really linear. Just cleaning it helped a ton. I was also getting some knock, +4deg, which is no longer there using the exact same IFR/MAF/PE tables... the only change was cleaning the maf.
Mike
I was seeing some pretty high LTFTs; Idle +16, light throttle +6-8, and higher throttle(non-wot) +4-6. This was with the stock screened maf and stock IFR/MAF tables.
At the time I had a modified PCV and intake path (TNT ring, coupler, and air bridge) after the MAF. I put those back to stock one at a time, thinking I may have had an air leak, and retested... no change in the the LTFTs. So, next I picked up a can of electrical component cleaner from radio shack and some q-tips. Cleaned the MAF sensor wires/resistors and took it out for a spin. +4-6 at idle(probably the cam and mod. VE table), 0 to +3 light throttle, and -3 to 0 at heavier non-wot throttle... wot zero'd out. The LTFTs were also reset after each change.
I would have saved a ton of time if I had cleaned the maf first. If you do, just be careful, as it does not take much force to damage the resistors. I just shot it pretty good with the cleaner and then using a soaked q-tip lightly rubbed the q-tip over the risistor and wires.
Prior to this I did some playing around with the PCM, but had to some numbers larger than I liked and not really linear. Just cleaning it helped a ton. I was also getting some knock, +4deg, which is no longer there using the exact same IFR/MAF/PE tables... the only change was cleaning the maf.
Mike