00 silverado starts and then dies, over and over, please help!!!!!
#21
I have a 2000 C3500 (350 vortec) with only 46k on the clock (I bought it new) it sits a lot and I store it during the winter. this year when I put the battery in it would only run for 2 seconds. IDK if I have any factory security system on it. FWIW nobody knows that it is the same as a 1998 pre LS motor truck. they didn't upgrade anything on the heavy trucks till the Duramax came out in 01.
I will check if I have a security light or not but I doubt it.
I will check if I have a security light or not but I doubt it.
FWIW I had tried to start it with an 8 year old battery and first had the problem. I put a newer battery in and still the same problem. I went out about 2 weeks later to let the passcode "relearn" and the dam thing started right up???? Hey I am not looking a gift horse in the mouth.
#22
2001 CHEVY 1500 4.3l fired right up and immediately shut off try again and the same thing happens over and over.
I tried some off the possibilities. Sensor, Coil, Distributor, Fuel pump. but nothing worked.
So I started checking wires under the hood around the fuse box. Under the fuse box there were 2 wires A GREEN WIRE AND BLACK WIRE WITH A WHITE STRIPE. They appeared to be a little chafe or bitten. so i tug on the wire and they broke. So i just joined them back, And tried the truck and it fired right up and continues to run fine.
What i have notice is what usually goes bad in one vehicle is usually found in the majority, I have also read in other forum about the PassLock system failing it is my belief the true failure is in Fuse box location.
Thought I would post this repair I just completed to save you some time and money.
I tried some off the possibilities. Sensor, Coil, Distributor, Fuel pump. but nothing worked.
So I started checking wires under the hood around the fuse box. Under the fuse box there were 2 wires A GREEN WIRE AND BLACK WIRE WITH A WHITE STRIPE. They appeared to be a little chafe or bitten. so i tug on the wire and they broke. So i just joined them back, And tried the truck and it fired right up and continues to run fine.
What i have notice is what usually goes bad in one vehicle is usually found in the majority, I have also read in other forum about the PassLock system failing it is my belief the true failure is in Fuse box location.
Thought I would post this repair I just completed to save you some time and money.
#23
Hi.
I stumbled across this thread while searching for a solution to my problem. I have a 2000 Chevy K3500. 1999 body style with a 454 engine and 254,000 miles. Ran great with no issues until one day, I turned the key to start it and it fired right up and immediately shut back off. Fires up on the first rotation of the motor every time, but then dies. Fuel pump and fuel tank were replaced a year and a half ago and you can hear the pump running like it should (3 year warranty on pump and tank). Just replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter. Same issue. Borrowed the coil and ignition module from my daughter's truck to test that and same thing (of course I put her parts back in her truck and verified it still runs right. lol) . No security light. No chip in the key. Any ideas?! I'm out of ideas and about ready to set it on fire. lol
I stumbled across this thread while searching for a solution to my problem. I have a 2000 Chevy K3500. 1999 body style with a 454 engine and 254,000 miles. Ran great with no issues until one day, I turned the key to start it and it fired right up and immediately shut back off. Fires up on the first rotation of the motor every time, but then dies. Fuel pump and fuel tank were replaced a year and a half ago and you can hear the pump running like it should (3 year warranty on pump and tank). Just replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter. Same issue. Borrowed the coil and ignition module from my daughter's truck to test that and same thing (of course I put her parts back in her truck and verified it still runs right. lol) . No security light. No chip in the key. Any ideas?! I'm out of ideas and about ready to set it on fire. lol
#24
2001 chevy 1500 4.3L start stop start stop
Hi My problem turn out to be a couple of bad wires located under the fuse box in the engine room. Not much more I can offer than that. I will paste in my original finding below. Your truck is a 99 , i was working on a 2001 Chvy 1500 4.3l. I don't know if it is the same.
I tried some off the possibilities. Sensor, Coil, Distributor, Fuel pump. but nothing worked.
So I started checking wires under the hood around the fuse box. Under the fuse box there were 2 wires A GREEN WIRE AND BLACK WIRE WITH A WHITE STRIPE. They appeared to be a little chafe or bitten. so i tug on the wire and they broke. So i just joined them back, And tried the truck and it fired right up and continues to run fine.
I tried some off the possibilities. Sensor, Coil, Distributor, Fuel pump. but nothing worked.
So I started checking wires under the hood around the fuse box. Under the fuse box there were 2 wires A GREEN WIRE AND BLACK WIRE WITH A WHITE STRIPE. They appeared to be a little chafe or bitten. so i tug on the wire and they broke. So i just joined them back, And tried the truck and it fired right up and continues to run fine.
#25
FWIW I had tried to start it with an 8 year old battery and first had the problem. I put a newer battery in and still the same problem. I went out about 2 weeks later to let the passcode "relearn" and the dam thing started right up???? Hey I am not looking a gift horse in the mouth.
FWIW I had the same problem again this year. When I went totake the vehicle out of storage, it would start for a few seconds and die.
I left the key in it and walked away for a half hour and it started.
IDK what the problem is but it sure is annoying.
#26
Same problem here 2000 3500 454 gas, 1999 body style
Would you by any chance know where the plug for the cluster is located? I am having the exact same problem... I don't have a chip in the key and I'm not sure if I have the security light or not, but at this point I'm willing to try just about anything. My truck wouldn't start for almost 4 hours this time and it's getting old. :\
#28
Just spent 5 hours on the side of a dirt road with this one. Lucky for me I had signal for Google. Ended up being the passenger door wiring shorted out and messing with the VATS. Unplugged the door and it went away. (That's the short version. Found that out 12 hours after I got it limping along when my son slammed the door and everything went off, then did it again and everything came back on). Along with not starting, the gauges didn't register anything-but you could hear the servos come on with the key, the radio wouldn't come on-could push the button for the clock and it would display, and the dash cluster would display the mileage and Park-low, but not the indicator for the shifter. It started after a few hours and swapping out the starter switch, but would display the other symptoms while still running. If you are stuck on this issue, try unplugging everything that interacts with the VATS, one at a time and see if it fixes it. In my case, could be a bad module, could be bad wiring. I'm going to replace the whole harness and module to make sure I don't run into this again.
Thanks to everyone who commented on here and sent me in the right direction.
Thanks to everyone who commented on here and sent me in the right direction.
#29
Help! Please!
I honestly don't know if it does or not. It does have the security light that comes on in the message center when you lock the doors. It is an LT, and has every option except for onstar, if that helps any. I was under the impression that the key does have a chip in it, and if you tried using one without the truck wouldn't start. I have a buddy that has installed many remote starts and security systems on these trucks including his. Viper is the brand name. Is it possible he could bypass something for me to prevent this from happening again? Or is there anything GM could scan for me to determine the problem? I drove it again today with no problems, but I'd hate to hop in it in an emergency or just wanting to go somewhere and it start acting up again. Thanks for your help.
This is happening to my 2001 GMC YUKON it has the alarm system your speaking of. What can I do to get it started? I've replaced the battery fuel pump and filter and I'm broke trying to fix this truck please help
#31
No, it doesn't do that. My buddy that had a 99 silverado said his did the same thing (fire right up and then die) and he had to have it towed to the GM dealership. He said it's some module that goes out, WTF!!! He said it cost like $600!!!!! I told him how a month ago or so that the security light would randomly come on in the message center until I turned the truck off. He said yep, that's it. This really sucks, I don't feel like spending that kind of $$$ on BS!! I guess that's life though. I know I'm taking a chance on getting stranded, but I'm not gonna buy a new one til it's completely fried. Cause it did this 1 time almost a year ago, then the one in this post. It's been fine the rest of the time so maybe I have a while til it goes.
Many Thanks V.
#32
How about: When finding the truck doing it's "on/off" deal, you hook up a fuel psi gauge?? That may just be enough info to eliminate/condemn the pump vs the VATS.
Aftermarket pump assys may work, may last for a week, may last for the remaining life of the vehicle. My parts guy won't sell them, as he got tired of the bs involved in returns. He sends the customer to the stealership.
Aftermarket pump assys may work, may last for a week, may last for the remaining life of the vehicle. My parts guy won't sell them, as he got tired of the bs involved in returns. He sends the customer to the stealership.
#33
I have a 2000 k2500 5.7L (1999) body style i too am having the start and dies issue
i have tried so far bypassing the wires that go to the ignition cylinder with touching the 2 far left wires together and leaving the red one installed no luck.. now they are back in the original places.. i tried holding them firmly into the cylinder no luck... i disconnected the battery and touched the pos to the neg for 30 min and no luck... i checked all fuses and relays all tested good... the security light is on solid and no codes come up when i scan the truck Please help...
i have tried so far bypassing the wires that go to the ignition cylinder with touching the 2 far left wires together and leaving the red one installed no luck.. now they are back in the original places.. i tried holding them firmly into the cylinder no luck... i disconnected the battery and touched the pos to the neg for 30 min and no luck... i checked all fuses and relays all tested good... the security light is on solid and no codes come up when i scan the truck Please help...
#34
TECH Senior Member
Check your fuel filter
#36
Since this is an old thread but still sort of active I will tell you how I solved a costumers problem. As said this is a Pass lock / Vats issue. Starts for 3 secs and dies .
Im not a mechanic but a machinist . My father is a mechanic . I go to his shop very often to use the lift.
They had a costumer there that had this issue. It sounded just like pass lock to me . . I have two spare pcm for a turbocharged gen1 sbc I have that runs a multiport fuel lsx ecm. I also have hp tuners . I I copied the 04 trucks file loaded it on my ecm . Turned off VATS and the truck started right up.
Find some one with HP tuners . Any local shop shouldn't charge you more than 150 250 bucks. It cost them 100$ to register your ecm. Fair is a hours labor even though itll take then 15 minutes.
Im not a mechanic but a machinist . My father is a mechanic . I go to his shop very often to use the lift.
They had a costumer there that had this issue. It sounded just like pass lock to me . . I have two spare pcm for a turbocharged gen1 sbc I have that runs a multiport fuel lsx ecm. I also have hp tuners . I I copied the 04 trucks file loaded it on my ecm . Turned off VATS and the truck started right up.
Find some one with HP tuners . Any local shop shouldn't charge you more than 150 250 bucks. It cost them 100$ to register your ecm. Fair is a hours labor even though itll take then 15 minutes.