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Let's see your VE graph after tuning..

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Old 02-24-2005, 05:28 PM
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Quick question how much % of error do NB's report or do we know
Old 02-24-2005, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HumpinSS
Quick question how much % of error do NB's report or do we know
Good question, then we add the fact that they are often deceived as well... So that make the percentage error something stupid I would imagine...
Old 02-24-2005, 06:41 PM
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I would argue they (NB) are no more accurate at 14.7 than a WB is throughout the curve. If this is true then who do we beleive and trust, the WB or the NB
Old 02-24-2005, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by HumpinSS
I would argue they (NB) are no more accurate at 14.7 than a WB is throughout the curve. If this is true then who do we beleive and trust, the WB or the NB
It depends. If placed properly...probably NB at 14.7. Anything else and you can forget it. And if you have longtubes you can forget it.
Old 02-24-2005, 08:25 PM
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Ya, NB's are great for 14.7..
Old 02-26-2005, 10:37 PM
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Been working on mine a little and here is the latest graph. You will see it is a lot smoother then my previous one. I just couldn't see how the car would keep the AFR the same with a smooth table but now I do. Thanks guys.


Old 02-27-2005, 09:43 AM
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Narrowband are extremely accurate where they are supposed to live at
Old 02-27-2005, 05:08 PM
  #148  
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WOW! How did i miss this thread?

Here's some more fuel for the fire...

Tuning SD via WBO2 there are only a few golden rules:
1. Make absolutely sure your STFT's and LTFT's are off and report 0 at all times - if this is not the case you are wasting your time.
2. Ensure your WBO2 is up to correct operating temperature and is installed and calibrated correctly.
3. Ensure your injectors are calibrated correctly, remember you have 3 different ways to skin this cat and eliminating this one as "correct" is easy.
4. Ensure your timing is set to something reasonable (no point tuning fuel if you are hitting 5 deg timing)
5. set your commanded AFR to whatever you want it to be via openloop, PE, whatever tables. It really doesn't matter what you choose as the final result will be linear or very close to (ie. if your fuel is 5% rich when you are shooting for 12.8, then it will likely be the same 5% rich if you are shooting for 14.7). VERY IMPORTANT: if you do have large transitions between commanded AFR (eg. 14.7 to 12.5) you need to be aware of allowing for that transition in your tuning by holding a little longer after the transition has been made so that the averaging effect can ensure you plot enough points at the real load condition not the fuel transition.
6. mess with the VE until you get the commanded AFR within a few % of the measured AFR.
7. check your work by setting a different commanded AFR in the PE table and see how close the measured is. eg. set for 12.0 AFR you should see the WBO2 hit 12.0 as well. This is the beauty of having a correctly dialing in VE (airflow) component as you can now directly tweak your PE (or better still use the VCM Controls) to find out at what AFR (and spark) you make peak torque for each RPM. Note: remember there is a slight dependence of AFR on spark but nothing huge if you used reasonable timing values to begin with.

On the smoothness of VE tables...

The VE of an engine is determined by the acoustic propoerties of the inlet and exhaust manifolding and the dynamic flow properties of the valve etc. Generally the harmonic resonances are indeed "peaky" in ideal circumstances (very low loss, low order harmonic). However, in an LS1 intake/exhaust setup these resonances are way out at the top end of the RPM scale due to the short runner length. In fact most car makers go out of their way to avoid a peaky response. Also, with most traditional designs the loss of the system (due to high airflows thru small passages) really dampens everything to a large degree, also a reasonable sized plenum adds to that dampening effect. Putting all the resonances out of the normal operating ranges and also designing in things like smaller port areas to increase velocity and plenums to dampen harmonics and assist NVH - all lead to smoother VE curves.

However, as long as you are operating at steady state with a properly calibrated WBO2 (operating within its time response) the commanded AFR vs. measured AFR is the ultimate measure. Again, it is *very* unlikely you would see a relative difference between adjacent cells of more than a few %.

Larger camshafts with large overlap, you are mostly tuning around reversion effects and reversion related effects such as localised port heating. I haven't studied this reversion stuff in detail (since most newer engine designs have variable cam timing that eliminates all this and hence most experimentation has stopped and assumed "problem solved"), but the concepts looks at least a couple orders more complex to me (whenever i see chemical equations in physics problems i usually give up).

Hope that helps,

Chris...
Old 07-02-2005, 01:12 PM
  #149  
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Ive noticed some peoples ve tables reach a plateau at upper rpms and are completely flat there after, while other ve tables have a hump where the peak seems to be at max torque, then goes down into a plateau, like a ridge in the middle of the graph.

Anyone have any thoughts on this, which is better?
Old 07-04-2005, 01:07 AM
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Whatever your car calls for is the best. There is no "be all end all" table to go by. I have tried numerous times to get my table baby back smooth and it is not needed. You can get it really close, but there will still be some ridges and peaks in it in places.
Old 08-05-2005, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Another_User
Professional tuners. I have never seen a professionally tuned VE table that was worth a crap. But I haven't seen any Aussie tunes...
Originally Posted by HumpinSS
..And after looking at a few professional tunes i am not convinced i want anyone comming near my car with a laptop besides myself
Originally Posted by AgentOrange
as stated before I wouldn't want anyone touching my stuff after reviewing some of these tunes. after seeing what Mr. Wright did for me three years ago I feel like some tuners are the biggest scammers in the industry.
Originally Posted by Black02SS
Thats right, if it can be done in an hour and 8 dyno runs without taking it on the road, it must be right.
lol, im with you guys on that... im not a noob to EFI tuning, but i was a noob to LS1 tuning... after playing with HPtuners for about 6 months now, i can honestly say, im never letting ANY of these "tuners" touch any of my cars again. sometimes what they do just astonishes me... i mean, sure, the car runs better and idles now... but its because you have it idling at 1100 and you roughed everything in... absolutly crazy. sure the guys that dont do it themselves wont ever understand why we're "bashing" tuners, but man, theres no way to do it right except over time...
Old 08-05-2005, 05:57 PM
  #152  
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Good thread. I spent the better part of the day reading the whole damn thing.


The first pic is the best I could do using LTFT's. I got frustrated and parked the car until I aquired a WB02. All my fuel trims were negative, but the car really drove like ****.

The second pic is my VE table after a few passes in OLSD using my WB. The bird was driving MUCH better, but still not to my liking.

The third pic is where I'm at today. The more I log, the smoother my table gets. The bird is driving like a bat out of hell now.
Attached Thumbnails Let's see your VE graph after tuning..-ltft_ve.png   Let's see your VE graph after tuning..-early_ol_sd_ve.png   Let's see your VE graph after tuning..-ol_sd_ve.png  
Old 08-05-2005, 07:06 PM
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Here is my lastest one....
14.7 up to 6k and 70kpa
13.0 from 75kpa+ to 8000



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