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Wideband O2 Cable Question

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Old 02-25-2005, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Predator
Huge help fellas, I really appreciate it!

jimmy, I was thinking that I would only have to fish the wire into the car one time, and I'd be all set to plug in any time I want. I won't be permanently installing the LM-1, but I can just leave the cable (that goes from the WB O2 harness into the LM-1) in the engine compartment and inside the car, and maybe zip tie it to the wheel well, with the other wires there.

Thanks again!
Just remember to keep the O2 heated if it's in the car... (if you pull the O2 sensor when you're not using it no problem, but if you're leaving the O2 in all the time, you must have the controller hooked up and turned on when the car's running... unless you like buying new sensors )
Old 02-25-2005, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by horist
No won't work w/1.4... so go to the customer logon on HPTs site and download 1.6.x (whenever you go there you will always get the latest production download)


w/the EIO upgrade and the 1.6 software you'll be able to log WB O2 data along w/the rest of your scan

I'm fond of the LM-1 device... they're releasing an LC-1 but release is slated for end of march at the earliest it seems

I know lots of others that run the dynojet setup and they love it as well... between the LM-1 or Dynojet really can't go wrong... they use the cheap Bosch LSU4 sensors that can be had for under 40 bux if you need a replacement (some wideband controllers use much more expensive sensors)
So this means I have to buy the LM-1 kit AND the EIO upgrade? Sorry for the confusion, just need a clarification...
Old 02-25-2005, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Hardtop00SS
So this means I have to buy the LM-1 kit AND the EIO upgrade? Sorry for the confusion, just need a clarification...

Correct... the EIO allows for external sensor input and output, the wideband O2 is a seperate sensor (requires sensor and a control box)
Old 02-25-2005, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by horist
Just remember to keep the O2 heated if it's in the car... (if you pull the O2 sensor when you're not using it no problem, but if you're leaving the O2 in all the time, you must have the controller hooked up and turned on when the car's running... unless you like buying new sensors )
Once I get my a/f tweaked, I'll pull the wb sensor and zip tie the wire.

BTW, I mainly got this tool to find out what my a/f is at idle. Have you found the LM-1 helpful for that? I'm 99.9% sure (it's that .1% that kills ya sometimes) that I've got WOT a/f around 13/1 by extrapolating data from my EASE scans (sort of like JR, Team ZR-1).
Old 02-25-2005, 06:12 PM
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the LM-1 is more useful for wot tuning where stock sensors aren't accurate, but can aid in part throttle also... at part throttle/idle the PCM relies on the stock Narrowband O2s which are highly accurate at 14.7:1 but then get less and less accurate the further away you go... the wideband will allow you to see accurately how far it's swinging ... but this can also be had w/stock O2s and ltrim logging ...
Old 02-25-2005, 06:23 PM
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Mike, thanks, since I installed my cam, the car idles okay, but sometimes when I drive slowly, like at a gas station, the car will sort of surge and jerk. My LTFTs are excellent, but I never assumed that that applied to idle for some reason. I did the NoGo 60, 70, 90 VE adjustment and that helped a lot, but I want to find out what exactly my a/f is during the times she bucks and surges. If I get this minor thing solved, and a check of WOT a/f (for piece-of-mind), I'll finally have my car where I envisioned it five years ago.




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