People that relocated their battery to the back - question
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 1
From: Bellevue, Wa
People that relocated their battery to the back - question where did you ground it.
I am being told that I should run the ground all the way back up front because it will keep the computer happier.
any merit to that? what have you guys done?
I am being told that I should run the ground all the way back up front because it will keep the computer happier.
any merit to that? what have you guys done?
Originally Posted by Blackbird
where did you ground it.
I am being told that I should run the ground all the way back up front because it will keep the computer happier.
any merit to that? what have you guys done?
I am being told that I should run the ground all the way back up front because it will keep the computer happier.
any merit to that? what have you guys done?
Personally I would be concerned about having to feed the
starter through chassis sheet metal and those little ground
braids chassis-block. But maybe it's good enough to get by?
Though I bet if one ground baid let go, the starter current
might find some "interesting" alternate route. You probably
would be well off to check how muchthe block and chassis
"ground" voltages jack apart on cranking because some of
the sensors are block referenced, and the readings might
well shift relative to the PCM ground when you have high
current being thrown through the sheet metal.
Thing is, doing it "right" is like 5lb of #00 welding cable, kind
of offsetting the traction bonus.
I wonder about using the #00 aluminum house wiring for
the forward battery and ground bus-bars, junction blocks
and then copper for the last couple of feet where you need
flex. That might be a good weight / resistance compromise
though further cost.
starter through chassis sheet metal and those little ground
braids chassis-block. But maybe it's good enough to get by?
Though I bet if one ground baid let go, the starter current
might find some "interesting" alternate route. You probably
would be well off to check how muchthe block and chassis
"ground" voltages jack apart on cranking because some of
the sensors are block referenced, and the readings might
well shift relative to the PCM ground when you have high
current being thrown through the sheet metal.
Thing is, doing it "right" is like 5lb of #00 welding cable, kind
of offsetting the traction bonus.
I wonder about using the #00 aluminum house wiring for
the forward battery and ground bus-bars, junction blocks
and then copper for the last couple of feet where you need
flex. That might be a good weight / resistance compromise
though further cost.
Mine is mounted in the spare tire well , and i drilled a 3/8" hole in the bottom straight in to the main frame and and bolted the neg (-) run the poss.(+) throught anouther 1/2" hole with a garnet to protect the wire so it wont get cut and grounded out, And you will need a GELL CELL battery because if you uses a wet cell in a F- body you will have a good chance of getting (BLOWED UP) a wet cell put off (Hydrogen gas) witch is very, very explosive, and very deadly to breath,with a gellcell there is no gases and very safe.Had mine in for over two years now with NO problems at all .
Last edited by Randy WS6; Mar 7, 2005 at 04:55 PM.
