Racetronix Do or Don't?

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Mar 26, 2005 | 10:42 PM

#41

Third Gear

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From: Chino Hills, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racetronix

Peering into a gas tank to determine how dirty is it is is like trying to see how dark your coffee is in your black mug in a dimly lit room.

If you really want to know what is in your tank take a bucket and place a white clean cotton towel over the top. Take the gas tank out, slosh it around while holding it upside down and letting all the fuel drain through the towel into the bucket.

Inner tank conditions are a crap shoot. You don't know what has been pumped into the tank or what is rusting in the fuel system.

The filter sock is rated at 30 microns which is a adequate protection for most types of contamination. Rust particles get pretty small and can pass through the filter sock. The gears in the Walbro pumps are more sensitive to debris passing through them when compared to vane pumps as gear clearance is key to performance. The fuel filter typically filters down to a much smaller particle size (<10 microns) than the filter sock in an injected car.

Thanks for the reply. I didn't peer into it exactly, it was more like I cut the tank up completely to look at it. None the less its true - you don't know till you get there.

Mar 27, 2005 | 12:07 AM

#42

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Quote:

Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00

so do i take the line off of the whole sending unit, the one that is connected to the pump, and put a gauge on the end of it, power it up FAST and then see if pressure is held? i just want to make sure before i go doing things. might be a stupid question but i always said the dumbest question is the one not asked

From the outlet on the sending unit there is a black plastic tube which in turn connects to a metal tube. This metal tube runs up to a 3-way coupler underneath the car on the DS. One line coming off the coupler runs to the fuel rail and the other thinner line is a return to the fuel module's internal regulator. If you unscrew the Saginaw fitting on the metal feedline going into the coupler block and push it into the end of a rubber hose with your gauge you should be fine. Be careful not to lose or damage the o-ring on the end of the Saginaw fitting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00

and on the injectors, there is a pulse width table. sorry im not too keen on electrical terms, im a mechanical engineer major and took a few classes that had to deal with pulse width and duty cycle but its not my expertice. hp tuners havnet been too helpful with this either, i tell ya i have been going nuts the past few weeks wtih all this. but from what i can see is there is the primary pulse width, the minimum and an adder table. i would imagine i would have to chagne the first 2 to a shorter pulse width so they dont inject as much fuel. this way i can tell the computer i have the right injectors and just modify the time they actually are on to inject fuel.
am i right in assuming this or no?

I am not familiar with HP Tuners Software but they should be able to answer your questions. There should be a table for injector offsets and constants which allow you to adjust for the injector characteristics. You do not want to adjust the actual flow rate if at all possible as this will throw off the mass-air calculation. If you have an intake leak, header leak etc. you will have trouble calibrating your PCM for good quality idle. Some PCM's allow you to adjust the IAC speed and dampening which can help over and undershooting the target idle speed. If you have an aggressive cam etc. then perhaps your motor needs to run richer at idle? Can you adjust your injector firing relative to cam position? Perhaps the fuel is pooling near the valve because you intake valve timing is not coordinated with injector timing? The 32# disc injector has a pencil beam spray pattern with fine atomization allowing the fuel stream to target the valve better than some injectors with wide spray patterns.

Just some things to consider when tuning...

Jack

Racetronix

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Mar 27, 2005 | 12:12 AM

#43

Racetronix

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Quote:

Originally Posted by NavySS

Thanks for the reply. I didn't peer into it exactly, it was more like I cut the tank up completely to look at it. None the less its true - you don't know till you get there.

You would not believe the amount of crap that is pumped out of a gas station's holding tanks into your tank. They should all be forced to install fine particle filters on their pumps.

I have seen rust, sand, dead bugs, paper, plastic bits, assorted hardware, cig butts etc. pumped into jerry cans. Must be some real jokers at the oil companies

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Mar 27, 2005 | 07:56 AM

#44

zo6vetteman2003

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From: Middleboro Ma.

Jack,

I believe that the seal was good and did not leak. I really would like to use the 38# injectors, because they will support anything I plan to do for the time being and the future. I will take a look at getting a deeper calibrating software to lean them out where I can attain atleast a 12.5:1 AFR and excellent drivability. I will let you know what changes I make, and post the results here for your view.
Peace
Thanks Vetteman

Mar 27, 2005 | 09:36 AM

#45

WS6FirebirdTA00

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From: North Carolina

yeah im gonna try and get in touch with hp tuners about this, they really dont want to help out much, they say just to ask everyone else, which as you can see gets to be hard. at least i know what has to be done now and i can find a good idle for the car. i want to tune the car with the injectors before i put the cam in so i dont have to fight 2 thigns at once

Mar 27, 2005 | 09:45 AM

#46

zo6vetteman2003

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From: Middleboro Ma.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00

Once you cam the car and add your heads, you will have to do a tune for that anyway. I was thinking earlier that you run the stock injectors until you do the work, and then add the larger injectors and just tune it from there. I don't know if you need the car for basic transportation, or not. Most likely you will end up with a different tune anyhow, even if you got it drivable now with larger injectors.
Good luck,
Vetteman

Mar 27, 2005 | 10:05 AM

#47

WS6FirebirdTA00

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From: North Carolina

yeah i know i would have to tune for the cam but im sure the injector pulse widths would stay the same, ill find out though, dont wanna do the work twice.

i missed your other post, the heads are the 66cc

Mar 27, 2005 | 12:27 PM

#48

zo6vetteman2003

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From: Middleboro Ma.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00

66cc should put you slightly less than 10.5:1, nice. Hopefully it all works out.
Thanks

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Mar 27, 2005 | 12:31 PM

#49

WS6FirebirdTA00

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From: North Carolina

i think its 10.28:1 from someone elses calculations i saw. im gonna put them on out of the box and then when i go a 90/90 set up i might try to push out some more power by millling to get me up to about 480, if needed. thats why i needed injectors that are big, so if i wanna go that high i can without problems

Mar 27, 2005 | 09:50 PM

#50

ntimid8r

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From: San Diego, CA

Our #1 problem now is with f-body customers who chose not to remove and flush their fuel tanks and end up contaminating their pumps.[/QUOTE]

How exactly do you flush the fuel tank? Obviously you turn it upside down and dump out the exsisting fuel. But anything to do after that? Spray any chemicals like carb cleaner in there to clean it out? Is that okay to do?

My tank is currently down and out of the car awaiting a new fuel pump.

Mar 27, 2005 | 11:23 PM

#51

Racetronix

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From: A Racetronix dealer near you...

Quote:

Originally Posted by ntimid8r

Our #1 problem now is with f-body customers who chose not to remove and flush their fuel tanks and end up contaminating their pumps.

How exactly do you flush the fuel tank? Obviously you turn it upside down and dump out the exsisting fuel. But anything to do after that? Spray any chemicals like carb cleaner in there to clean it out? Is that okay to do?

My tank is currently down and out of the car awaiting a new fuel pump.[/QUOTE]
Let the garden hose run into the tank while letting it overflow.
Rinse the tank a few times.
Drain as much water out as possible.
Assuming all the fuel vapor is gone you may use a hair dryer on low to speed up drying out the tank. (nothing too hot so that you distort the plastic tank.)
Fill the tank with a good grade of gas (preferably one which contains methanol)

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Mar 28, 2005 | 10:27 AM

#52

ntimid8r

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From: San Diego, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racetronix

Let the garden hose run into the tank while letting it overflow.
Rinse the tank a few times.
Drain as much water out as possible.
Assuming all the fuel vapor is gone you may use a hair dryer on low to speed up drying out the tank. (nothing too hot so that you distort the plastic tank.)
Fill the tank with a good grade of gas (preferably one which contains methanol)[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info. I have an air compressor so I'll blow it out instead of using the hair dryer.

I just purchased the racetronix LS1 fuel pump system and it's on the way. I already opened up my 01 Camaro's fuel tank and found that the Walbro I previously purchased is not the best choice mainly due to the missing small tube for the bucket feed. I've seen pics for modifying the stock filler bucket and feel it is not a good way to go.

For clarification, the racetronix utilizes the that small tube? Do I just transfer the tube from the stock unit to the racetronix unit? Does the racetronix come with a new tube besides the main output flex tube?

Thanks in advance.

Mar 28, 2005 | 04:06 PM

#53

Racetronix

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From: A Racetronix dealer near you...

Quote:

Originally Posted by ntimid8r

Thanks for the info. I have an air compressor so I'll blow it out instead of using the hair dryer.

I just purchased the racetronix LS1 fuel pump system and it's on the way. I already opened up my 01 Camaro's fuel tank and found that the Walbro I previously purchased is not the best choice mainly due to the missing small tube for the bucket feed. I've seen pics for modifying the stock filler bucket and feel it is not a good way to go.

For clarification, the racetronix utilizes the that small tube? Do I just transfer the tube from the stock unit to the racetronix unit? Does the racetronix come with a new tube besides the main output flex tube?

Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]
Your compressor will be working overtime.
HD works best.
Racetronix system comes with flex tube but not small venturi tube.
If you cut holes in your bucket for a previous pump installation the system will not function properly. You must use an unaltered bucket.
Detailed instructions are included with the pump assembly.

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