KR on stock timing on 04 GTO...
KR on stock timing on 04 GTO... Used EFI Live Professional...
Stock auto 04 GTO with following mods:
Timing Tuner
NX wet kit 150 shot
Intank Walboro FP with bucket drilled
TR6 plugs gapped at .038
homemade CAI ( plugged IAT in rubber part between MAF and TB, close to MAF)
with timing tuner disconnected, I recorded 1.3 degree of KR at WOT during run, none noted in 1st gear, but all 1.3 noted in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm...
with timing tuner turned on and retarding 1 degree overall timing, WOT run shows .9 to 2.3 degrees KR in 1st gear, .2 to 1.4 degree KR in 2nd gear, and .3 degree KR in 3rd gear.
I was not using nitrous on these runs....when I do use nitrous I have to retard 4 degrees to avoid KR...
Is this normal? Are the cold/tight gapped plugs, or CAI causing the KR? Can I simply desensitisize the knock sensors with LS1 edit safely? I use 93 octane, no additives (just put some seafoam in tank today for first time), its cold outside (40 degrees). Car also throws codes...."lean bank 1" and "lean bank 2" consistently, whether I am on motor or bottle....my short term fuel trims are screwy too....
Any input? My nitrous is not working right either, must be a wiring problem (have had nitrous since 1993 on three cars, never had the kind of little problems I have had with this car!!!)
SDB
Stock auto 04 GTO with following mods:
Timing Tuner
NX wet kit 150 shot
Intank Walboro FP with bucket drilled
TR6 plugs gapped at .038
homemade CAI ( plugged IAT in rubber part between MAF and TB, close to MAF)
with timing tuner disconnected, I recorded 1.3 degree of KR at WOT during run, none noted in 1st gear, but all 1.3 noted in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm...
with timing tuner turned on and retarding 1 degree overall timing, WOT run shows .9 to 2.3 degrees KR in 1st gear, .2 to 1.4 degree KR in 2nd gear, and .3 degree KR in 3rd gear.
I was not using nitrous on these runs....when I do use nitrous I have to retard 4 degrees to avoid KR...
Is this normal? Are the cold/tight gapped plugs, or CAI causing the KR? Can I simply desensitisize the knock sensors with LS1 edit safely? I use 93 octane, no additives (just put some seafoam in tank today for first time), its cold outside (40 degrees). Car also throws codes...."lean bank 1" and "lean bank 2" consistently, whether I am on motor or bottle....my short term fuel trims are screwy too....
Any input? My nitrous is not working right either, must be a wiring problem (have had nitrous since 1993 on three cars, never had the kind of little problems I have had with this car!!!)
SDB
My GTO was showing a lot of positive fuel trims and knock retard with the factory tune. I posted this a while back, and one of the aussie members said this is normal. Nothing a little HPtuner couldn't handle, though.
Lean codes + 150 shot = yipes!
Seems like the timing tuner is taking you in the wrong
direction, even with -1 degree setting. Is this a gizmo
that biases timing forward but lets you back off from
that, or is this supposed to be -1 from stock?
However with gross lean error you must have some very
positive LTFTs and these would likely also be varying
across the MAP, RPM space meaning that one WOT pull
to the next could be seeing very different residual-LTFT
enrichment. Can't necessarily conclude anything about
the timing, until you have a consistent mixture run-to-run.
Seems like the timing tuner is taking you in the wrong
direction, even with -1 degree setting. Is this a gizmo
that biases timing forward but lets you back off from
that, or is this supposed to be -1 from stock?
However with gross lean error you must have some very
positive LTFTs and these would likely also be varying
across the MAP, RPM space meaning that one WOT pull
to the next could be seeing very different residual-LTFT
enrichment. Can't necessarily conclude anything about
the timing, until you have a consistent mixture run-to-run.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
From: Australia
The factory timing cannot cause knock without excessively lean conditions. Unfortunately the '04 stock tune is pretty dead and AFRs are often all over the place. I would bet that its not the spark thats causign detonation, rather the AFR.
For dry NOS you need to pull around 10* timing at WOT. For wet NOS you can keep the same spark curve but would want to run richer at by 1.5 points of AFR. For example, if running 12.6AFR NA then run 11.1 with NOS. This is a general rule fo thumb that I have observed and each application may be different.
For dry NOS you need to pull around 10* timing at WOT. For wet NOS you can keep the same spark curve but would want to run richer at by 1.5 points of AFR. For example, if running 12.6AFR NA then run 11.1 with NOS. This is a general rule fo thumb that I have observed and each application may be different.
