Run car w/o MAF Sensor in SD all the time ?
Next step would be calibration of the MAF. the question is if it might be possible to just let the car run without MAF in SD. I could take the MAf out and replace it with a straight silicon tube being less restrictive than any MAF you could get (no sensors, no screens).
I use the WCC High Flow MAF without screens, and i think this unit is messing up my LTFTs like crazy.
What should i do to have the car run without MIL and in SD after removing the MAF?
How about the spark tables (high/low octane) ?
Should i set MAf fail freq. to "0" ?
What would be the benefits, negatives when driving in SD. I dont care for emmisions control, can change back to MAf in 10 Minutes . . .
Will the car produce more Power/Torque when staying in SD ?
Hope you guys can help . . .
Take care,
Jochen
I guess a proberly tuned maf will do its job as good as running in SD, But i drive the Corvette only in summertime, so why bother with calibrating the maf when the car runs great in SD and gets a few g/sec. more air without MAF Sensor ?
I realised that driving the car without MAf it seems to run more smooth, ne transition hesitation, no surging. I drove for the past 6 years with MAF and never realised that the car could run better without.
Jochen
Not coming down on you, SSpdDmon, but I'd really like to kill this misconception, because it keeps rearing it's ugly head.
Not coming down on you, SSpdDmon, but I'd really like to kill this misconception, because it keeps rearing it's ugly head.
As per my own experience, a perfectly working SD tune at 70 degrees netted me super negative trims once in 40 degree weather and even verified with wideband when returning to open loop. Having made zero changes to the tune, commanding 13.0 in 40 degrees produce 11.0-11.5 on average, whereas at 70 degrees I was producing as commanding. This result has occured on a friend of mine's vehicle as well. After VE tuning and 13.0 WOT tuning on the dyno, we left the car in SD mode. A month later he did a dyno run for fun, lost 20 horses, ran a 12.4 A/F with no knock. Same dyno, same tune, different day and yes different temps/humidity. It wasn't just a dyno quirk either since he and I run dead even from a roll and later that afternoon I walked away from him pretty convincingly mutliple times. And YES I KNOW WHAT I'M DOING...
I scanned his part throttle and he was running overly negative trimming, and when placed back in open loop, was on average producing 12.0 when 13.0 was commanded of the VE. This with trims reset out and all to verify it's consistency.I wouldn't be so bold as to call this a misconception just yet!
As per my own experience, a perfectly working SD tune at 70 degrees netted me super negative trims once in 40 degree weather and even verified with wideband when returning to open loop. Having made zero changes to the tune, commanding 13.0 in 40 degrees produce 11.0-11.5 on average, whereas at 70 degrees I was producing as commanding. This result has occured on a friend of mine's vehicle as well. After VE tuning and 13.0 WOT tuning on the dyno, we left the car in SD mode. A month later he did a dyno run for fun, lost 20 horses, ran a 12.4 A/F with no knock. Same dyno, same tune, different day and yes different temps/humidity. It wasn't just a dyno quirk either since he and I run dead even from a roll and later that afternoon I walked away from him pretty convincingly mutliple times. And YES I KNOW WHAT I'M DOING...
I scanned his part throttle and he was running overly negative trimming, and when placed back in open loop, was on average producing 12.0 when 13.0 was commanded of the VE. This with trims reset out and all to verify it's consistency.I wouldn't be so bold as to call this a misconception just yet!

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I have to think what to do. Would like to get more input form guys who verified SD dyno runs compared with MAF running dyno runs . . .
Jochen
Its amazing what a hot wire flow meter (MAF) can do for quick compensations. I Run SD on my Formula open wheel racer but would also like to determine the inlet airflow... there are more ways of measruing inlet airflow... the MAF just happens to be quite simple and cheap.
Thanks for your help.
Jochen
the whole idea is to have your MAF behave like SD, and that's what my spreadsheet does.
tune your car in SD as normal, but as you do that, also log for the two fields my spreadsheet needs, then just use all these data to create one big MAF calibration from a lot of sample points. if it's done right, your LTFT histogram should not change much at all when you go back from SD to MAF mode. That's the cool part.
VE airmass is more prone to error period. I'm glad your car likes SD, but there's a reason it's the backup system and I'm sure GM engineers just gave us a MAF b/c it was a shittier system.
Last edited by txhorns281; May 7, 2005 at 03:31 PM.
VE airmass is more prone to error period. I'm glad your car likes SD, but there's a reason it's the backup system and I'm sure GM engineers just gave us a MAF b/c it was a shittier system.
i know its not what happened to you, but what im saying is i wonder why it goes the otehr way
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And the idea behind me running richer in colder weather is that with reduced air temps, we see a greater airmass value. And with cooler, denser air, you would expect to see higher MAP values. So in turn the PCM wants to match it with a higher amount of fuel. But what if the airflow that is determined by SD calcs is for whatever reason more than what the motor is really using/wants or maybe air temp and density aren't the only factors contributing to combustion. This could inturn overshoot and create rich conditions. Keep in mind b/w the IAT and MAP sensor there can be a large discrepancy in airmass calculations (for fueling purposes) since we're talking about a multivariable function now. How is this different from the MAF? Well, the MAF itself is a true measuring device whereas SD is more an expectation from less precise devices (in regards to direct airflow metering). And for heavier modded cars, airflow is a much more critical element to be accurate about as to keep fueling inline.
I ran without a MAF for a long time over the many faces of weather we see here in TX and it's not like some operator error thing that I'm running into. Tunes untouched, they have not remained stable for myself, or for others I have worked on. So from that, I go back to the MAF, get it dialed in as it's supposed to be, and have seen very stable fueling, great throttle response (which I will say that an untuned MAF will make SD throttle response feel like a godsend), and no loss in power as far as comparative racing goes against other owners.


