lc-1 wideband install ??
#1
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lc-1 wideband install ??
has anyone hooked one up to there fbody?
i have never installed a wideband and i dont know were to begin.
it has a
red ==== 12v supply
blue ==== heater ground
metallic ==== system ground
yellow ==== analog out 1
brown ==== analog out 2
black ==== calibration wire
helppppp.... i can send a copy of the instructions if it would help. not sure how to power it. i will be using it with my hptuners eio.
i have never installed a wideband and i dont know were to begin.
it has a
red ==== 12v supply
blue ==== heater ground
metallic ==== system ground
yellow ==== analog out 1
brown ==== analog out 2
black ==== calibration wire
helppppp.... i can send a copy of the instructions if it would help. not sure how to power it. i will be using it with my hptuners eio.
#2
I just finished an install on my 04 GTO.
The exhust bung should be welded in the exahust pipe aft of the collector but before the Cat.
The 12V power supply should go to a switched 12v source. I found a relay (fuel pump) that is only powered when the engine is running. Short sensor life has been a complaint on Wideband sensors, you can hook it up to any 12DCV source that is powered with the key in the run position. Just keep in mind in this situation anytime you are running the radio or such this sensor is also being heated without any airflow going past it.
Find a solid ground point and connect the blue wire to it.
The calibration wire (black) is optionally hooked up to both an LED and a normally open push button. When the button is depressed it makes a path to ground to recalibrate the sensor. the sensor needs to be in free air for this process
Use the analog out 2...this is the 5DCV default source. either one will work but you will have to reprogram analog out 1 to work with HP tuners.
The metallic wire is hooked up to the black ground wire on the HP Tuners EIO extension cable. Any of the HP Tuners A/D inputs (I used white) should be hooked up to the outputs from the LC-1
The exhust bung should be welded in the exahust pipe aft of the collector but before the Cat.
The 12V power supply should go to a switched 12v source. I found a relay (fuel pump) that is only powered when the engine is running. Short sensor life has been a complaint on Wideband sensors, you can hook it up to any 12DCV source that is powered with the key in the run position. Just keep in mind in this situation anytime you are running the radio or such this sensor is also being heated without any airflow going past it.
Find a solid ground point and connect the blue wire to it.
The calibration wire (black) is optionally hooked up to both an LED and a normally open push button. When the button is depressed it makes a path to ground to recalibrate the sensor. the sensor needs to be in free air for this process
Use the analog out 2...this is the 5DCV default source. either one will work but you will have to reprogram analog out 1 to work with HP tuners.
The metallic wire is hooked up to the black ground wire on the HP Tuners EIO extension cable. Any of the HP Tuners A/D inputs (I used white) should be hooked up to the outputs from the LC-1
#5
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there's an access hole on either side of the car at the firewall you can go through too... I've heard about people going through the shifter but not sure how it's done
#6
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I dont have the stock A4 shifter any more so I just slit the stock shifter cable grommet and the O2 sensor plug made it through. The LC1 itself under the console. You may be able to get it through with the cable on it as well. I didnt want to leave the unit itself under the car.
#7
Originally Posted by 99whitews6
How have you guys been getting the cable into the car? I heard someone say that they went through the shifter??? How?
All help is appreciated!
I finally found someone that had this LC-1 in-stock so its been ordered. Again. DAMN APE
All help is appreciated!
I finally found someone that had this LC-1 in-stock so its been ordered. Again. DAMN APE
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#9
Originally Posted by b727pic
I just finished an install on my 04 GTO.
The calibration wire (black) is optionally hooked up to both an LED and a normally open push button. When the button is depressed it makes a path to ground to recalibrate the sensor. the sensor needs to be in free air for this process
The calibration wire (black) is optionally hooked up to both an LED and a normally open push button. When the button is depressed it makes a path to ground to recalibrate the sensor. the sensor needs to be in free air for this process
Thanks in advance
#10
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This is what I have but I havent hooked it up yet. I can send a pic of the box I made if someone wants to host it.
Can any verify this is correct?
LC-1:
red ==== 12v supply-Connected to 12V source?
blue ==== heater ground- Connected to solid ground?
metallic ==== system ground-Connected to EIO Black?
yellow ==== analog out 1- NOT USED?
brown ==== analog out 2- Connected to LC-1 White?
black ==== calibration wire- Connected to LED and Pushbutton?
EIO:
White === Connected to LC-1 Brown?
Purple === NOT CONNECTED?
Blue === NOT CONNECTED?
Green === NOT CONNECTED?
Black === Connected to LC-1 metallic?
Red === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Yellow === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Orange === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Can any verify this is correct?
LC-1:
red ==== 12v supply-Connected to 12V source?
blue ==== heater ground- Connected to solid ground?
metallic ==== system ground-Connected to EIO Black?
yellow ==== analog out 1- NOT USED?
brown ==== analog out 2- Connected to LC-1 White?
black ==== calibration wire- Connected to LED and Pushbutton?
EIO:
White === Connected to LC-1 Brown?
Purple === NOT CONNECTED?
Blue === NOT CONNECTED?
Green === NOT CONNECTED?
Black === Connected to LC-1 metallic?
Red === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Yellow === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Orange === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
#11
Originally Posted by 99whitews6
This is what I have but I havent hooked it up yet. I can send a pic of the box I made if someone wants to host it.
Can any verify this is correct?
LC-1:
red ==== 12v supply-Connected to 12V source?
blue ==== heater ground- Connected to solid ground?
metallic ==== system ground-Connected to EIO Black?
yellow ==== analog out 1- NOT USED?
brown ==== analog out 2- Connected to LC-1 White?
black ==== calibration wire- Connected to LED and Pushbutton?
EIO:
White === Connected to LC-1 Brown?
Purple === NOT CONNECTED?
Blue === NOT CONNECTED?
Green === NOT CONNECTED?
Black === Connected to LC-1 metallic?
Red === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Yellow === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Orange === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Can any verify this is correct?
LC-1:
red ==== 12v supply-Connected to 12V source?
blue ==== heater ground- Connected to solid ground?
metallic ==== system ground-Connected to EIO Black?
yellow ==== analog out 1- NOT USED?
brown ==== analog out 2- Connected to LC-1 White?
black ==== calibration wire- Connected to LED and Pushbutton?
EIO:
White === Connected to LC-1 Brown?
Purple === NOT CONNECTED?
Blue === NOT CONNECTED?
Green === NOT CONNECTED?
Black === Connected to LC-1 metallic?
Red === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Yellow === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
Orange === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING?
99whitews6,
That's how mine is wired so far. My only question is where does the 'ground' side of the LED and button attach to? The manual only states to attach it to 'ground.' Would that be the chassis ground or the unit's ground (the bare metallic wire)?
#13
Originally Posted by 99whitews6
I plan on running a wire from the car ground to my box and then hook all ground wires to that connection. I box is plastic so it wont be a ground by itself.
Just got an email from Felipe at Innovate Motorsports. He stated that both the pushbutton and the LED ground should be attached to the system ground (the bare wire that connects to the EIO black wire).....Hope this helps...
#14
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Originally Posted by horist
I've heard about people going through the shifter but not sure how it's done
on my M6 car I cut a little "slit" in the rubber around the shifter and just pass the cable up through the floor when I have the wideband in the car (I don't drive with it all the time....just tune....).....my O2 bung for the wideband is in the "X" of my X-pipe (no CATs) so I read both banks.....
#15
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Originally Posted by ChrisLe
Just got an email from Felipe at Innovate Motorsports. He stated that both the pushbutton and the LED ground should be attached to the system ground (the bare wire that connects to the EIO black wire).....Hope this helps...
#16
Originally Posted by ChrisLe
Quick question on the ground for the calibration pushbutton and LED...Are they grounded to the same wire (bare metallic wire) that is attached to the HPTuners EIO black wire?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#17
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Anyone tried to mount it in place of the narrowband O2 and send the Analog Out 1 signal back to the PCM? From what I can tell in the online instructions, that output simulates the a narrowband sensor. I'd rather not have to have a bung installed. TIA
**Edit - Also, which 12v source did yall tap into?**
**Edit - Also, which 12v source did yall tap into?**
Last edited by SSpdDmon; 06-16-2005 at 09:53 AM.
#19
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Anyone tried to mount it in place of the narrowband O2 and send the Analog Out 1 signal back to the PCM? From what I can tell in the online instructions, that output simulates the a narrowband sensor. I'd rather not have to have a bung installed. TIA
**Edit - Also, which 12v source did yall tap into?**
**Edit - Also, which 12v source did yall tap into?**