P Mack

iTrader: (6)

If your trims are good and you have stock heads & cam I would just leave the ve table alone. Are you getting knock retard off the line? Try logging engine>advance>iat advance to see if the heat from your supercharger is pulling timing. Maybe log burst knock too.

About your 11.25 a/f reading, try logging commanded a/f ratio to see if that's what your pcm is telling it to do.

DanaliHD

iTrader: (5)

it's whacked. Before I do wot, my commanded afr and my logged afr are pretty close. they both kinda bounce around 14ish. After I do a full wot run, my commanded afr says 14.68 and my actual afr reads 11.25. Neither of them move at all. Something is wrong.

Anyway, I am not getting any kr off the line. I'm talking about not only full throttle off the line, but also putting it in drive and touching the gas to go. the timing goes to 0. very annoying.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Well there are only so many things that will pull timing and i'm pretty sure you can log them all. About the a/f fuel thing after a run, is that only when you're slowing down? How long does that last?

DanaliHD

iTrader: (5)

NO, it's all the time until i shut the truck off and restart it, i think. Any ideas what could be pulling the timing so i can log them? I pray for the day i go to the parking lot at work and discover that the truck has been stolen or it caught fire. that would rock. then i could start over. lol

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

If your wideband reads 11.25 and doesn't budge after a run i'd say you may have a bad connection or something. What do your o2 voltages look like when this happens?

As for timing, look under engine>advance and log base advance, iat advance, ect advance, egr advance, idle advance, afr advance. And under engine>retard log burst knock retard and knock retard. That's basically everything that can mess with timing. When you look at your log file any difference between the base advance and the actual timing should be accounted for.

02sierraz71_5.3

iTrader: (2)

I was under the impression that you tune ifr based on a ratio of how much you increased the flowrate over the stock flowrate then add a percentage across the board and leave it. I know there are some sheets floating around for it I have one if you need it redsupra found it. Then the rest of the trims were tuned out with the ve running in sd, then turn on the maf and tune it. Next is setting wot fueling with PE

Is this thinking wrong for tuning a boosted engine?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

That's still right for a boosted engine. Just keep in mind you can't use speed density for boost (unless you have 2bar).

I said before that i would leave the ve table alone cause you have stock heads and cam, but i changed my mind. It would need modified cause you don't have the same size intake runners with the supercharger manifold since you have a whipple, not a centrifugal.

DanaliHD

iTrader: (5)

OK, let me get this straight. I should start with a stock VE, a modified IFR to account for the 42lb injectors, stock MAF table and stock PE. The first thing I should tune is the IFR to get the ltrims all to around +/- 4. Then what?

I'm so confused. Do I ever need to adjust the maf calibration table according to that redhardsupra or whatever spreadsheet? When and why would i touch the VE? How do I change my commanded afr not in PE and what do i set it at? Do I need to adjust the iac steps for the ported TB?

Would i be better off having Allen@nelsonperformance send me a new tune starting from scratch?

02sierraz71_5.3

iTrader: (2)

you dont tune trims with the ifr, you set the table and leave it then tune trims with the ve table in sd. If I were you I would really start reading and start with all the stickies at the top if youve allready read em read em again I know I didnt get all of it the first time.

DanaliHD

iTrader: (5)

Interesting. lol. I've been told many different things by many different "tuners" and basically nothing works. I love it. Tuning the VE does not work. I was told tuning in SD on a boosted truck is wrong. I give up. i've read everything already.

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

You cannot tune a boosted vehicle in SD mode unless you are using our 2bar setup.

Your stock MAP sensor will not read boost. Your MAF sensor will read up to about 6lbs.

You'll need to use the MAF table to add the fuel for boost. Anything over the maf limit will be a static fuel level. You will not have dynamic fueling over that point. Basically, a one size fits all until your airflow is lower than that point and you are back in your tuneable range.

DanaliHD

iTrader: (5)

ok, how do i do that?

Super Sport X2

You can tune part throttle VE with a 1 bar map sensor (which is what I was having you do until you get the problems figured out). Just stay out of WOT and you will be fine.


You need to tune your VE table down low first, then put a completely stock maf on and see if they agree. I have a feeling you either have a manifold or other air leak with that truck. For some reason you cannot get the MAF and VE to agree.

People were having you tune the IFR table based on fuel trims which is a bad idea. That table is for the injector flow rate and nothing else, period.


You were on the right track when we last spoke via email. If you can't get the MAF and VE to agree its time to start looking for problems with the installation. With a stock motor and cam, you should not be having this much trouble getting it tuned.

Ken

DanaliHD

iTrader: (5)

thanks Ken for all the help. As of right now, i have my ltrims looking great by tuning the IFR and not touching the VE. The truck feels pretty good other than the timing drop from a dead stop. The spark table commands 7deg and it goes to about that. Too low for me i think, it hesitates off the line.

I want to tune it the correct way. If tuning it by PE is right, i'll do it.
I tried for 4 days to tune my ltrims via PE adjustments. Everytime I thought i had it set, it would totally go in the opposite direction. eg, i'd have all +15's in my ltft histogram, so, i would copy and past special %. Next run after setting the ltrims, i'd have +15 in my ltrims. wtf. so i'd try again and it would go to -15. then randomly back to +10. it's so messed up.

If I had a leak somewhere, where would I look? I'm no mechanic by any means.

Does anyone have any idea why my lc1 gets stuck at 11.25 after I enter PE? Maybe my 12v source is bad? i have it hooked up to a 12v source in the fuse box at the driver's door.