First, the history...

I put LT's on my car with a catted Y-pipe and removed the rear O2s. After a while the cats were blown because of this. I gutted the cats (since they were toast anyway) and put on some O2 sims. I threw codes all this while due to the lack of O2s and the fact that I disconnected my AIR pump.

This past weekend I got my car tuned. They deleted the AIR pump code and removed the test for it. They also leaned out the mix a bit because it was running a bit too rich. All was well... until today.


Now, the problem...

Today I see my SES light come on. I got to Autozone and have them pull the code. It's P1153. According to my reading this can be a host of problems including a wasted O2 sensor (please, God, let it be that), exhaust gasses being too cold, exhaust leaks, burnt wires, or a hundred other things.

I'm looking for a little advice here. I have my rear O2 sensors sitting at my parents' place, and I could easily go swap one of them out. However, I don't know which side "Bank 1" is. Also, I'm not sure that if it resolved the issue that the SES light would go off without me resetting the computer. I don't want to reset the computer because my inspection is up this month, and I hear that you can't get inspected while the computer is still in diagnostic mode.

I'm getting down to the wire here on inspection. What do you guys recommend?

 

Bank 1 is the drivers side. I had that code all the damn time. I finally got tired of it and turned them off and threw my o2's away.

 

That code should be deleted whenever you go catless. If you are deleting codes, then you do not need O2 sims

 

actually it's a very common code when you goto headers. Doesn't always come right away as well. The stock manifolds creates a "hotter" scenario for the o2's to work in, the headers obviously removes some of this heat...the pcm just doesn't like the speed of the switching in the 02's...switching meaning looking for stoich (that lovely wave signature on the scan tools) Just turn the code off and/or vette rear o2's might make the problem go away (their heaters are apparently hotter than most).

 

I had that same code after installing some LT's. It was just tunred off and have not loss of power or mpg

 

I have TPIS headers, they throw the 1153 all of the time. I just have that code turned off. That solved the problem.
Having no codes is a requirement to pass DMV. What happens if you have the Cats gutted and no codes?? Is that OK?? Will they ever know??

 

This is weird, I have never deleted this code but one of the cars I tuned the other day said his car threw this code and when he asked someone they said they always delete this code, but I've tuned probably 6-8 cars with headers including my own and this was the only one that has ever thrown that code.

 

The problem that is causing this is the o2's aren't getting hot enough, in turn not switching properly. Depending on the appliication, it can happen to one car and not another. The exhaust can also cause this if there are any leaks or air that can get back to the o2 cooling them off. When this code is present, the car will default to open loop causing a really rich condition. Some have found that rear corvette oxygen sensors help, others have not. I have personally tried everything with my car in the past to resolve this but never did, so I removed all my o2's and run open loop all the time now. Have been that way over a year with no issues.

 

Just an FYI, I thought P1133 was Bank 1 and P1153 was Bank 2. Although, I have been wrong before.

I also read that "Bank 1" actually meant the side of the engine where piston #1 was. I don't know if that is an SAE standard or not. Just a thought as I wonder if a P1133 means the same side of the vehicle in the US as it does in say Australia?

 

Yeah, its the o2 codes. I get these all the time. Ive tried the vette sensors, ive tried playing with the pivot points and slew rates in HPTuners, but to no avail. Ive swapped out about a dozen different sensors before finally just saying screwit and deleting the codes.

 

I was replying in a hurry and thought it would be understood that we are talking about a Header situation; not stock manifolds ofcourse.

Reason being, the thread states, and originally relates, to after-market headers with a catted Y. That's why I said cat-less . . . should have thrown in with headers

I delete 1133 and 1153.

 

I feel really sorry for all the 1153 and 1133 newbies who are being told that headers alone cause these codes to kick. My car with it's stock manifolds has been throwing these codes for a year this month and I have been searching this forum the entire time for solutions. I have gotten every piece of advice and direction possible and spent this whole year trying to get that effin light off. No one would believe the money Ive spent or work I did and I got no where. Id like to share a few facts with my fellow sufferers here and hopefully clear a few myths and save you some bucks!

First of all, while deleting the codes will kill that effin light, it's only a small relief since the problem is insufficient heat and or switching. That means that the PCM will not read off the sensor and runs the engine on the factory open loop setting. This setting is way too rich. My car has a major power loss and the fuel economy sucks really bad. It's very odd that I'm the only one who seems to have lost power and efficiency. If you're reading this and also have, please admit it so I know I'm not special.

Second, the rear vette bosch sensors did absolutley nothing but cost a lot of non refundable money. I'm on my 3rd set and still no dice.

Third, I've read a lot of posts where the "posters" claim that they easily fix their problems. Their "Huh, I didnt have any trouble fixing mine" tone seems to ring of an idiot who enjoys PRETENDING to know more then his comrads. We all bought these cars cause we love 'em and we're all bonded brother gear heads. If I could help any of you with any of your car troubles I'd do it in a flash for nothin. That's good old USA juice straight from the can! Anyway, please join me (if you've read a post from one of these dorks) in laughing out loud as you proudly exclaim " I get off on Import crushing, gasoline burning American muscle (and playing with girls)". This should really fix their red wagon since the only apparent thing they get off on is their keyboard while trying to face a fellow enthusiast.

I have stock manifolds, no cats (just pipe), rear sim's, 3 inch I pipe, Flowmaster 3 in, dual 2.50 out. Ive tried every fix on this site and nothing works. If you'd like to save some serious money, email me for the laundry list of crap I've done before you start spending! Good luck, you'll need it! Go America! Wake the hell up GM, I'm still waiting!

 

Dang. That sucks.

I haven't had much experience dealing with an LS1 with stock exhaust manifolds no cats/catless. Most everyone goes to headers mighty quick after the cats are dropped or before.

Sucks that it still happens but it would make sense when you drop the cats.

I'm tellin' ya . . . I've been through every so-called "fix" listed on the internet and the only "fix" I found for these codes in 4 years of searching is deletion.

 

TXNC5 is right, P1133 is for bank 1 and P1153 is for bank 2.

And if it makes you feel any better, back in 2002, GM couldn't fix the 1133 and 1153 in the fullsize utilites either, so they sent calibrations out to the dealers to disable those two codes

 

After installing LT's I started getting the P1133 and P1153 codes. After installing the Bosch 13111 rear O2's my codes have been gone for 7 months.

This worked for me.

Bill

 

I just got the P1133 and P1153 codes for the first time since installing the headers 3 months ago. Forgive me I'm not very knowlegeable in the area of pcm tuning.
My question is does the computer look for or need these codes to be set before it can switch to the open loop setting ? If so then it would seem deleting the codes should solve the problem.
Other than being annoying is there anything wrong with just clearing/resetting the code(s) when they come up ?

 

My advice is that if you like having a car that sounds like the hammers of hell, then just deal with the poor mileage and performance. My car dose not read off the sensors with that &^$^%&^ light on. Save the money you'd spend trying to fix the problem and use it for gas. I've spent well over a thousand bucks (plus countless hours of labor) and at best can get it to go off for a few days. One things for sure, if someone had a real fix for it, it would have been posted here long ago. I wont just delete the codes, that would prevent me from monitoring them during different engine conditions and therefore inhibit my quest to someday find a cure. So far only one idiot has asked why my lights always on, I responded by tacking 5,000 in 2nd gear and they magically had bigger issues to deal with. Judging by the smell, I suspect it was crap in their pants.