Wideband to narrowband simulation.
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From: Coppell,TX
Wideband to narrowband simulation. Id like to know if there is anyway of simulating narrowband with the wideband control out of the car and just the wb02 in the stock nb spot? And if so HOW?
It's been puzzling me since I bought my LC1. I've tried messing with it every which way, but my PCM only seems to see a constant ~.450mV...no fluctuation. 
Last edited by SSpdDmon; Oct 6, 2005 at 10:00 PM.
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From: NJ
were workin on it, you just gotta read some posts:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...9&page=1&pp=10
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...9&page=1&pp=10
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: SoCal
We (AEM) make a Gauge Type UEGO controller that has an analog output that can be set up to be a straight line 0-5V wideband output, a straight line 1-2V widband output, a straight line a 0-1V wideband output or to simulate a stock type Nerst cell 0-1V narrow band output that has the accuracy of a wideband. The UEGO Controller is built into a 52mm (2 1/16") gauge so you have an accurate wideband output and a gauge to monitor the AFR's while you're driving. Switching between different output calibrations is as easy as turning a switch on the back of he gauge with a small screwdriver. The UEGO gauge uses the Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor which is pretty common now a days. It's accurate to 0.1 AFR and much cheaper than the NTK's I used to use.
Last edited by MPP; Oct 6, 2005 at 10:17 PM.
FormerVendor
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Decatur IN.
Originally Posted by MPP
We (AEM) make a Gauge Type UEGO controller that has an analog output that can be set up to be a straight line 0-5V wideband output, a straight line 1-2V widband output, a straight line a 0-1V wideband output or to simulate a stock type Nerst cell 0-1V narrow band output that has the accuracy of a wideband. The UEGO Controller is built into a 52mm (2 1/16") gauge so you have an accurate wideband output and a gauge to monitor the AFR's while you're driving. Switching between different output calibrations is as easy as turning a switch on the back of he gauge with a small screwdriver. The UEGO gauge uses the Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor which is pretty common now a days. It's accurate to 0.1 AFR and much cheaper than the NTK's I used to use.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Coppell,TX
alright well i guess i didnt make my question clear enough. I would like to be able to have narrowband readings off of just the LSU 4.2 without the wb controller. Anyway this is possible?
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by Spenser309
alright well i guess i didnt make my question clear enough. I would like to be able to have narrowband readings off of just the LSU 4.2 without the wb controller. Anyway this is possible?
Think I'm gonna run mine behind the glovebox, nice and hidden. Then connect to it with my laptop when needed from beneath or something.
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The wb sensor won't work without a controller. I've been using the narrowband sim of the lc-1 for awhile now, no problems. (You just have to turn off the heater diagnostics for that sensor.)
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Originally Posted by patSS/00
The wb sensor won't work without a controller. I've been using the narrowband sim of the lc-1 for awhile now, no problems. (You just have to turn off the heater diagnostics for that sensor.)
I just followed the instructions with the lc-1. There's one wire (analog out 1, yellow?) that gets hooked to the nb wire to the pcm (don't recall color), the other nb wires are just disconnected. Make sure the ground wires for the lc-1 are connected as per instructions.
BTW I'm doing this on the after-cat sensor, so if it wasn't working right or was just giving a steady .45 volts it might still be enough so no code was set. I haven't checked the actual volts.
BTW I'm doing this on the after-cat sensor, so if it wasn't working right or was just giving a steady .45 volts it might still be enough so no code was set. I haven't checked the actual volts.
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by patSS/00
I just followed the instructions with the lc-1. There's one wire (analog out 1, yellow?) that gets hooked to the nb wire to the pcm (don't recall color), the other nb wires are just disconnected. Make sure the ground wires for the lc-1 are connected as per instructions.
BTW I'm doing this on the after-cat sensor, so if it wasn't working right or was just giving a steady .45 volts it might still be enough so no code was set. I haven't checked the actual volts.
BTW I'm doing this on the after-cat sensor, so if it wasn't working right or was just giving a steady .45 volts it might still be enough so no code was set. I haven't checked the actual volts.
Originally Posted by SilverSmoke
sensor must be before the cat, otherwise its useless and your not reading the true o2 values comming out.
Originally Posted by patSS/00
I just followed the instructions with the lc-1. There's one wire (analog out 1, yellow?) that gets hooked to the nb wire to the pcm (don't recall color), the other nb wires are just disconnected. Make sure the ground wires for the lc-1 are connected as per instructions.
BTW I'm doing this on the after-cat sensor, so if it wasn't working right or was just giving a steady .45 volts it might still be enough so no code was set. I haven't checked the actual volts.
BTW I'm doing this on the after-cat sensor, so if it wasn't working right or was just giving a steady .45 volts it might still be enough so no code was set. I haven't checked the actual volts.
I connected the heater power and ground to the 12v source and heater ground since that was obvious. Then I connected the NB sim to the HO2S high and the analog ground to the HO2S low (again since it seemed to be grounded in the diagram). Are you saying only three wires (12v, heater ground, and nb sim - but not the analog ground) should be hooked to the PCM? If so, can you check to see exactly how you wired it so I can fix it and not fry my PCM???
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Ok, I just want to get this straight. There are four wires that go to the NB sensor. A 12v source, heater ground, HO2S high, and HO2S low (which appears to be grounded to the sensor).
I connected the heater power and ground to the 12v source and heater ground since that was obvious. Then I connected the NB sim to the HO2S high and the analog ground to the HO2S low (again since it seemed to be grounded in the diagram). Are you saying only three wires (12v, heater ground, and nb sim - but not the analog ground) should be hooked to the PCM? If so, can you check to see exactly how you wired it so I can fix it and not fry my PCM???
I connected the heater power and ground to the 12v source and heater ground since that was obvious. Then I connected the NB sim to the HO2S high and the analog ground to the HO2S low (again since it seemed to be grounded in the diagram). Are you saying only three wires (12v, heater ground, and nb sim - but not the analog ground) should be hooked to the PCM? If so, can you check to see exactly how you wired it so I can fix it and not fry my PCM???
lc1 12V + to switched 12V in engine compartment
lc1 heater gnd to chassis gnd
lc1 analog out 1 to HO2S high "B" (to PCM)
lc1 system gnd to PCM gnd (which is also connected to my readout meter gnd)
lc1 cal wire to led/switch as per instructions
HO2S low "A" (gnd) - not connected
HO2S heater + and gnd "C" & "D" - not connected
hope that helps.
Are you guys leaving the LC1 unit outside, under the car. I was trying to get it in the cabin but fear I don't have enough slack.
Do you guys remember the colors of the wires. I have some O2 extentions that I can splice into but do'nt know the pinouts in regards to the colors
Do you guys remember the colors of the wires. I have some O2 extentions that I can splice into but do'nt know the pinouts in regards to the colors
