0-28 are zeroed on mine, effective area is not an issue. as long as you set it up correctly and tune the RAF it wont hurt, it helps so the computer knows how much air it actually lets in. everyone swears up and down not to touch this with a stock TB but mine is totally different from stock and is working fine. besides over and underfueling from the o2s on decel, i see absolutely no other issues.

 

How healthy are the o2's? good o2's will make or break idle in my experience.

 

I've got the same problem but, it is much worse witht the a/c on vs off. Idle is pretty solid with a/c off.
Any ideas?

 

they are brand spanking new denso corvette rears, i think im going back wiht stock ones as these are pieces of ****. actaully take LONGER to heat up, and oscillate much much slower than the stock ones, even with changing the proportional fuel to help out. they are pretty damn accurate though, when they are nice and hot i tune off them and when i put the WB on its pretty much dead on +/- 1%

 

From what I've read Denso's don't work. I'd stick with stock on Bosch 13111's.

 

i talked to quite a few guys with bosch that get insufficent switching codes with them. i think im going to order some OEM o2s when i get money

 

It depends on your IAC counts on decel. Log the IAC counts on decel. to find out whats happening. If they reduce to 0, then you no longer have stepper motor control so everything you do from that point on is useless. At idle, you need anywhere from 20-100IAC counts. On cruise, it could be more than that, maybe upwards of 180IAC counts. Bascially, you ALWAYS want IAC motor control or the car relies purely on the TB position.

 

well i have messed with about anything you can, i cant really tell if the dip has gotten better in closed loop, i think i have to figure off the rich condition before i can fix it, and that doesnt want to go away with these injectors

 

wel i have the same issue in my m6
but mine only happens if i bog it down to below 1000 when in gear and then push the clutch in

but mine does not raise up untill i hit the gas and it stumbles a lil bit

 

48% factor!?!?! Holy ****, I must have posted 10 times in that thread that it's only for drive by wire throttle bodies.

I don't know why nobody can figure this out, but an f-body pcm doesn't care how big your throttlebody blade is because it doesn't control the throttlebody angle. It probably is causing a problem, possibly not, but you definately changed it for all the wrong reasons.

 

I definitely made a mistake and overkilled it, and I don't mind being bitch slapped when I ignored clear advice, but I'm not seeing it. I see 2 posts in that thread from you relative to the 48%:

Your next post was in respone to the question "also where in efi live is that scaler...I'm under idle and I see IAC area, idle speeds, start up correction, idle airflow, idle airflow parked....etc"
The full thread that I got the 48% from is here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/335186-update-90mm-tb-48-effective-table.html

Maybe there are other threads with it where you posted that. In any case, anyone reading this will not make the same mistake.

 

My bad, i've probably replied to a couple different threads on the subject so i shouldn't expect you to know that. I see now that i only replied once in the original thread. Sorry for the bitchslap

 

I have the same problem, not so much anymore. For me it was the effective area table being off. I tried messing with cracker and follower with little success. I built mine by logging commanded iac airflow and actual maf airflow and tweaked it till both were pretty much identical at all counts.
Now for the most part in a CL maf tune it comes down to idle real nice with ac on or off in cold or hot weather.
The only problem I have is sometimes driving slow with alot of clutch in/out, throttle on/off action it will stumble, and the friggin reverse stumble.

 

Decel. can't be all follower. If that were true, then why does my idle level out at the point that I disable "throttle cracker?" Currently, I set it to disable at 9mph and enable at 10.


I've been tuning my idle for a few months now, and still have similar problems to what he's describing. Idle will go down, then back up to 1200, then sit there or around 1000 till I stop.

It changes depending on my RAF numbers. IAC vs. EFFECTIVE is dialed in since the dynamic and actual airflow numbers cross. My IAC counts are 45-50 when warm.

I've been through probably 30 idle tunes so far.

 

send me your bin and ill check it out. if your ve is off that will cause issues as well, or slow switching o2s