I've been having some idle and part throttle issues since I installed a set of MAC's. I did a search and it seems like I should adjust the IAC effective area or the throttle cracker tables. My question is; Will the factory ZO6 throttle tables work with my car since it is a bone stock 2003 LS6 crate engine? Is there a great difference given that the ZO6 is an M6 and I've got an A4? Any input would be appreciated!

 

the raf table is were you should start and then go from there is what i understand. adjust that and then if you still have issues then the others will come into play.

 

If you have a bone stock LS6 engine, just copy the VE Table & Timing Tables from a Z06 file to yours.

Also you might have to add to your Idle air table. By just adding a set of MACs, that shouldn't give you any problems with idling...

 

I have the ZO6 VE table w/ some tweaks, my trims are all between 3 and -2. I know the idle should not have been affected, but it's the only change I've made other than tightening up the converter a bit, changing the clutches and replacing the 4 element planetary with a 5. Could that cause my problem?

 

For idle issues, like he said, start with logging your STIT and LTIT, then adjust your base running airflow (RAF) accordingly.

What exactly are the issues you're having?

DON'T touch the throttle cracker tables. They just mask the problem and/or make it harder to adjust or correct.

Don't mess witht he IAC effective area till you get you're RAF right first. Changing RAF affects your desired vs. dynamic airflow. And, only after RAF changes, log desired and dynamic, then change IAC effective only if they aren't overlapping.

But, again, describe your issues more thoroughly.

 

If you have HP Tuners Ver 2.0, just log the Idle Air in the histogram. I think it explains how to set it up in the help file. You have to scan when it's cold in park and drive, so it will take some time.

A quick and simple experiment - add 10% to the whole "idle air table" and see what happens. If it helps some then you going in the right direction. After you do an upload, disconnect the battery for 2 min, that way, your Idle memory is erased.

 

Thanks for the responses! I'm glad I didn't touch anything yet! I'm a to tuning and have learned a lot from everyone on here. Cheers to all!

To describe the problem better; when the car is warm and running a while the idle begins to "lope" like a big cam would then I get a slight stumble right off idle starting from a stop. When the car shifts into OD at between 1000 and 1500 RPM the car will begin to buck like it's not getting fuel or something, kick it down and it screams. I don't get it. I didn't have any of these problems before.

 

You need to adjust your TCC Apply/Release tables, this is a 2002 stock table:

 

Bucking means not enough air.

Floating idle (1200 or whatever) means too much air.

Adjust your base running airflow.

 

It's all becoming clearer! Thanks a lot guys! I'm gonna play with it tomorrow if I have time.