There is a table entitled "Initial Adder vs. ECT" under the "general fuel" tab in 2.0
I don't have 1.7 so I don't if it is included or not.

If you reduce your delay on hot start and decrease the the decay step, that would get rid of the adder much faster if you are too rich on hot start-up.

 

if you filled the hole in, the hole is not allowing enough airflow for the colder temps, that is where the issue comes from on cold starts

 

That would explain the gradual problem developing....weather pattern changes!

OK, looks like I'll have to see the seller......or if you have any suggestions on a remedy, other than eliminating the coolant by-pass?

 

coolant bypass is ok, its the hole for the IAC opening, that is what i was referring to. if that is epoxied then knock the epoxy out

 

Understood, and many thanks

 

This is what I have: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y31...stuff/fuel.jpg

I reduced my afterstart enrichment adder and it helped with rich starts, and usually hot starts are fine. It's only after my car has been sitting a while, like 10 minutes, then it still starts up fine but it tries to die when i'm pulling out of a parking spot or something. That's why i want to find that soaktime table.

 

0'ing out my table stopped both hot and cold start problems. Car fires right up and finds idle at 900 rpm. Cam in sig

 

i tired this and it never worked for me. the car would not start on the first time, and if it was really cold, i could boot my computer and flash a new tune faster than i could get the car to fire up. some people it works for and some it doesnt. for the guys it works for, i changed exactly what you all did and then worked off that to get the car to start, still nothing.once i put startup enrich in the car would fire fine...

 

same thing for me, the car wants to stumble on me if i try to take off if i just started the car after a while. i normally try to let it heat up a while. if not i take off and keep the rpms up in 1st and that helps