MAXIMVS

that's it i've had enough of it!!!!!!!!!!!! damn thing ran rich on the dyno costing me 30RWHP!!! then i set it down to "0" WOT and "1" Base which is just 5 percent rich.....damn SES light comes on again! and you can smell the STENCH of the damn fuel running rich

all this cause my car had minor knock problems a few days after i installed my mods. it was around 3 or so degrees of knock. well SCREW IT! i rather run like that and keep my 30 extra horses

i am not bashing the Translator as i know for many of you it helps but for me it has done nothing. maybe later on when i do other mods i may need it or i won't. for now its staying in the closet where it belongs!

<img src="graemlins/gr_zzz.gif" border="0" alt="[boring]" />

BIGBOS

You try leaning it out some??

MAXIMVS

if i lean it out it gets worse <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0"> and i did a quick test with it today. i did a test run with and without it.

without it, it responded a lot faster and stronger...with it performed crappy. that's another reason why i just took it out

[ December 11, 2001: Message edited by: MAXIMVS ]

[ December 11, 2001: Message edited by: MAXIMVS ]</p>

RyanJ

you should promptly box it up and mail it to my house for "repairs" <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

MAXIMVS

<img src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" border="0" alt="[devil]" />

BIGBOS

Or you might not have connected it right

MAXIMVS

trust my BIG i connected it right <img src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" border="0" alt="[whiner]" />

oh well <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

A few local MFBA folks have had excellent results using the MAF T on the dyno.

I am still learning how to use mine. <img src="graemlins/gr_xmas.gif" border="0" alt="[santa]" />

MAXIMVS

what i might have to do is get my car "dyno tuned" a whole mess of runs with different MAF settings should do the trick <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" /> <img src="gr_tounge.gif" border="0">

BIGBOS

Yea I would look into dyno tuning

DravenMyers

I just bought one <img src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" border="0" alt="[whiner]" />

Red2000SS

[quote]Originally posted by RyanJackson:
<strong>you should promptly box it up and mail it to my house for "repairs" <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>

LOL <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> , Yes I'm sure that will help his problem...

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Its definitely what I would consider a "Band-Aid" mod, but it can be helpful.

Hint: dyno tuning with the MAF-T is somewhat useless. I've attempted this many, many times now. I'd get it running sweet on the dyno, then once I left and put some miles on the car the AutoTap numbers would change as the PCM got used to something and corrected it. The best way to tune with a MAF-T is on the road at WOT with AutoTap. Click the settings, go drive around for awhile, then do some WOT testing. If you don't like what you see, try again. The AutoTap numbers are different on the dyno and on the road, because there is hardly any load on the motor on the Dynojet.

Tony <img src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" border="0">

Street Racer

iTrader: (65)

Khris, I couldnt believe how much you picked up taking that thing off . It was nice putting faces with screen names ... Mike H.

SINSSTR

I dunno fellas...it seems to me with the exception of a lid and perhaps one or two
other items, some of these air/fuel mods
are hit and miss for each of us. For every
good install, I seem to read another with
poor results. I don't think I've ever owned
the keys to a car that rolled the dice more
often with each mod. Not saying that's a bad
thing...especially if one is having success
with MAF's, throttle bodies, etc., but if you're
on the downside of spending a few bills, only
to lose this kind of HP...it's got to be frustrating. If and when I break into the 12's
consistently...even if it's 12.99, that's when
I'm folding up shop and calling it a day engine-modification wise. That kind of speed in my
neck of the woods would put me in a fairly small group of enthusiasts. This is SUV country up here for the most part (though we do have some
incredible exceptions). Anyways...for you guys marching proudly into the 11's and low 12's...my hat goes off to ya. It's got to take a WHOLE lotta patience and $$, yes? Well...at least
without forced induction or having a factory freak to start with.
Just my .02

[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: SINSSTR ]</p>

MAXIMVS

Thanks for the Hint Tony <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

it was nice meeting you that Day Mike <img src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" border="0" alt="[devil]" /> I can't wait til i get my Converter so we can do a few runs....hehehehehehe <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />

Matt98SS

I am with Tony...took me quite a lot of driving and such to get my MAFT tuned to where I like it. lots of cruizing time to watch the Ltrims, and lots of WOT blast to dial it in just where I want it. It runs much better all over now but sure it did take quite alot of time and miles

get that knock out box to get rid of the KR that Tony sells (if its false knock)

Matt98SS

also I was gonna say just cause it smells rich does not mean it in a rich state I thought the same thing

you gotta autotap it and really see where the #s are. Maybe you are lean? just a thought

you really cant use that MAFT with out autotap

Crazyquik

MAFT definently works better on the road or track than on the rollers. I think it might have something to do with load, resistance, and air rushing into the intake tract instead of being pushed at ambient pressure.

Dean98TA

[quote]Originally posted by Matt98SS:
<strong>also I was gonna say just cause it smells rich does not mean it in a rich state I thought the same thing

you gotta autotap it and really see where the #s are. Maybe you are lean? just a thought

you really cant use that MAFT with out autotap</strong><hr></blockquote>

I suspect that if it smells rich, then most likely it is rich.

This can mean one other thing though... the O2's are no longer calibrated properly... perhaps due to exhaust temps being lower on a motor with headers and off-road y-pipe.

I don't know what the O2 voltage vs. O2 temp function is, but it does need to operate in a specific temperature range. If the exhaust temps are slightly lower on a headered/catless motor, and a lower temp causes the O2 sensor to read leaner than it really is, then by the same token, when the PCM "corrects" the lean condition, the O2 sensor reads stoich, when in reality it's too rich...

I'm guessing, but there has to be some perfectly logical reason why O2's can read stoich, yet the exhaust stink like raw fuel.


Dean