starter problems
My guess is no because it will probably spin with no load but once you put the load on there it boggs it down...Hmm...Do you have a autozone or something around you?? I think that they test those for free...Just a thought
Staging Lane
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I had this problem with an old nissan truck, and it ended up being corroded battery cables. i would imagine the same for a loose conection. It sounds like something is either grounding out or misconnected. have you tried using a starter bypass and jumping stright from power to starter? That will at least tell you if the starter and battery have enough to crank the car.
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From: Fat Chance Hotel
Measure the amount of current the start draws when you crank (you'll need an inductive current clamp). I don't know specs for the LS1 off the top of my head, but that will tell you what kind of shape the starter is in...given the battery is at full capacity.
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Well, what do ya'll think about me jumping the starter while it is connected to the car? Will that be fine? That sure would tell me if something was miswired or I had a bad ground, correct? Or should I just take it to autozon (right down the road) and get it checked? I know they check battery's, I didn't know if they checked starters.
If you can just take it off I would do that...The last time that I remember they check everything like that...Starters, alternators, etc...they would know the numbers and how much would be correct...
Staging Lane
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I just used a remote starter bypass doochickey to diag my vette a few weeks back when i put the 408 in. just do it in the car, put the key in run position car should fire if it works. This will bypass starter solenoid too. Mine was a loose ground wire.
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Verdad Gallardo Well what makes me think that it's possibly fried is because he had the wires backward for a while and if it isn't properly grounded then it wasn't able to discharge the current...And if the solenoid was about to go out then it might still click (which I have also seen before) but not completely turn over when a load is introduced to it....
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Actually I had the wires right the first time. Just that the positive cable was hitting the ignition wire. I didn't know at the time and switched the wires. Then nothing happened at all. I switched the wires back again and it was still hitting (didn't know) I figured out that it could be hitting and it sure enough was so I moved the wire around so it wouldn't hit. That solved my first big problem. Sooo, now I think I am going to try and jump the starter while it's still on the car and see if it cranks. If it doesn't then off to autozone with the battery and starter. I'll also check the ground wire while I'm down there. Just and FYI I bench tested the starter and both the solonoid activates (moves the bendix) and the starter does spin. Now whether or not it's spinning fast enough or with enough power to turn the engine I do not know.
Hmmm....Okay, So that rules out the having it backwards in the first place causing the problem but do you remember or know if the wires were ever grounded out?? Did they have any sparks??? If they happened to ground out when they were on the starter then that could have hurt it too...Hmmm...Oh $hit, another thing you might check is the fuses...I believe that there are a couple different fuses for the starter...I remember that from installing car audio and alarms and when good alarms go bad..heehe..I'm just trying to think outside the box but not too far out you know...Hmm..You may check the volts when you crank the ignition...make sure that the wheels are blocked obviously but if it's getting proper voltage, if it is grounded and it still isn't turning the engine over then it is 99.9% the starter...I'm trying man...good luck
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From: Fat Chance Hotel
Get the starter and bettery tested then we'll know what went wrong.
If you loaded up the armature for too long I'd say you melted it to the point it still turns but effectively weakened it. Having the positive cable shorting with the ignition wire probably caused a mean load on the "little" circuit which possibly tossed a fuse.
If you loaded up the armature for too long I'd say you melted it to the point it still turns but effectively weakened it. Having the positive cable shorting with the ignition wire probably caused a mean load on the "little" circuit which possibly tossed a fuse.
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I checked a few fuses. All of the little 10 and 15 amp fuses that had anything to do with ignition or starter. They are all fine. Going to look at the ground today and if they check good then I will take it off and take it to autozone. If the starter is bad I'll buy a new one and be done with it. I have to have the car running today. So I can take it tomorrow to get it tuned. Anyone know what to expect on a ls1 starter from autozone?
I forgot to tell you that in your fuse panel under the hood is where the fuses are for the starter...I believe they are like 40amp or something....As for as the price for a starter I would guess somewhere around $50-$75 for a stock unit...I know that you can get a gen I sbc starter for under $50....Goodluckk 777
No it should be on your driver side under the hood...Look on the tops...There are two...It's not the relay...They have like 40,50 amp fuses in there...The gray one that you talk about is a gray little box right?? thats a relay...
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Ok, well like I said I have no idea about anything electrical. I don't remember seeing a big starter fuse. There was a 50amp ignition fuse in there. It was good.
There are two different fuse boxes under there...One had like your lights and all of that kind of stuff and then the other fuse box had stuff like your fans and starter if I remember...YOu have to forgive me I'm going off of memory of what I remember from 4 months ago...I can't just go outside and pop my hood right now....