WTF - Deleted TM w/ Edit and still get .......
<strong>SJH,
So I guess the real question in this topic is:
Is the Spark Retard Limit table ONLY for controlling retard during the shifts, or does it serve multiple purposes?
Things that make you go Hmmmm??</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Anybody able to confirm this yet? Very imformative thread.
<strong>SJH: Thanks for putting it in blunt terms for us; our Aussie mate tried to tell us that, but it didn't sink through. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
I think I'm going to try either +10 or +15 above 5600 rpms and leave it alone below that. That way at WOT or near WOT I'll have more power, but no extra wear at lesser part throttle speeds.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks dude. I've had my A4 rebuilt and have matched by retard limit values close to the maximum timing the engine sees at WOT. This makes for positive gearshifts and no loss of power.
My last atap data shows me dropping to -14 on 1-2 shift and -10 on 2-3 shift.
Tonight with the above ls1edit changes there was no noticable drop in timimg on the shifts. I didn't have the atap interval set as fast as I would have liked but it appeared to hold 20+ degrees on all shifts.
<strong>I tested mine out tonight. I got rid of tm in every listed area of ls1edit as well as changing the value of the spark retard limit tables.
My last atap data shows me dropping to -14 on 1-2 shift and -10 on 2-3 shift.
Tonight with the above ls1edit changes there was no noticable drop in timimg on the shifts. I didn't have the atap interval set as fast as I would have liked but it appeared to hold 20+ degrees on all shifts.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What exactly did you do to remove all of the torque management?
Well since this is back at the top I'll ask again:
Is the spark retard limit table ONLY for TM?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Under transmission
a4 shift firmness - torque reduction - set all values to 0
Under Engine
Ignition - Torque Reduction - set all values to 0
Ignition - Spark Retard Limit - set all values to 20
Thats all I did. Like I said...I didn't try doing each one of the above by themselves so I don't know if there is one magic field but the combo listed does work.
I was somewhat concerned intially about seting the retard limit to a number so much differnt than factory (it was -10 all the way across on stock tuning) but I monitored everything and seen know adverse effects.
I will be at the track Friday night and hope to have more data backing this up.
Car - 98 ta, ytp4400 , 3.73, slp lt/orp, bolt ons, weight reeduction, et streets.
<strong>So you set your spark retard limit table to 20 degrees? If not, then I can promise you that you are dropping down to whatever that limit is set at. ATAP probably just isnt catching it.
Well since this is back at the top I'll ask again:
Is the spark retard limit table ONLY for TM?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes...set all tables to 20. Had I had set refresh interval in atap a little faster I'm sure timing would have been very close to 20 on the dot. As it was, out of 3 runs (2 1-2 runs and 1 fisrt through third blast, I got a couple of 23's, and a couple 19.5. I'm sure the 19.5 is the most accurate.
Does anyone see a problem raising this up to around 25, especially on a car such as mine which is very, very seldom driven??
My biggest concern when changing the sprk table was that the kr would not work when needed. However I picked up a tad (1.0 or less for just a couple frames...probably exhaust related) of kr on a couple runs and it seemed everything worked as was supposed to.
One other note......the car felt absolutely awesome. Before I atapped my car last year I actually thought my tranny was screwed cause I thought it was gonna throw me out the front windshield on the shifs.
Now there is absolutely no loss in power on the shifts and feels like it should. I couldn't be with the results of ls1edit so far. I bought it because of a heads/cam install coming up in two weeks but to me its already paid for itself.
<small>[ May 01, 2002, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: msce2b-dustin ]</small>
I hear you on that. Lately my 1-2 shifts sound like a manual shift with a quick rev before it picks back up and takes off again. <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> TM.
setting my spark retard from 4800-6400 to 10, then 20 in the 5600-6000 range

