Anyone fried their PCM with LS1Edit yet?
I am wanting to order the product very soon, next week if I can, and I want to find out how hard it would be to totally screw up a PCM. That way I can be prepared for when my wife finds out I have to order another PCM for the just in case. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Thanks,
Eric
Destroying something else on the car with a bad setting is a whole different story <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> .
(FWIW, I fix flash corrupted LT1 PCMs all the time. On those, you have to remove the flash chip, clean it, program it in an EPROM programmer, and then solder it back to the board. I think with the LS1's, though, that it's a non-invasive procedure to recover, since LS1_Edit is only programming data tables - it leaves a good chunk of the program alone.)
-Andrew
Does it do a test to make sure it can upload ok besides me making a mistake like pulling the chord and what not?
Thanks for the advice and yes, having a story is one of the unspoken rules of mod'ing your car! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
Eric
<strong>You won't literally destroy the PCM with a programming interruption, but you can corrupt the flash and make it where the PCM won't 'boot'. However, LS1 PCMs are a little more forgiving than the LT1 PCMs, so they can be recovered a little easier - Dave (@ Carputing) can recover them. It does mean a few days of down time, though. I know of a couple that have been locked up. Maybe some day I'll start recovering them, but not quite yet.
-Andrew</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Happened to mine, we ended up with some down time. I would not mind having a spare pcm for the future when/if we fiddle again especially for NOS.
I believe it was due to a low battery condition while programming.
I had it towed to the dealer. They said they couldn't reprogram it and mentioned an memory error which they couldn't get past.
3 days and 500 dollars later, I got my car back.
I don't have the nerve to try it again until I get a spare.
The wife is still giving me grief over the last time <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I have never 'fried' a PCM, LT1 or otherwise. But I do believe in spares - I have several OBDI and OBDII LT1 PCMs for my 94Z, as well as a spare for my '98Z.
No PCM required on my 79, tho. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Just a damn screwdriver and BF Hammer. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
-Andrew
but if just read your cars computer first.. nothing bad can happen from just reading it!!
i read mine a few times just to make sure everything was reading and working right... then it just takes 2-5 mins to program... im only programmed mine 2 times... i try to do everything i want when i do though.. less flashing, safe u are

<small>[ April 11, 2002, 07:00 PM: Message edited by: 98TAauto ]</small>
I would suggest making sure your battery is fully charged - if you even suspect it you can use one of those "jump-it" external batteries - this will avoid the problem of dirty voltage like you might see with a battery charger (ac on top of the DC).
Make sure everything is disabled on your laptop as andrew suggests - all virus and power saving features. Set your computer to max performance if that is an option. If you are not 100% confident in your battery leave the computer plugged in.
If your computer completes a read succesfully you shouldn't have any problems with programming (assuming the read happens in normal time - ~15 minutes) - that is the best way to safely check to make sure everything is working, and the first step you need to take anyway.
Chris
I have one of those external battery (jump start)things chris was speaking of. Hadn't thought about it until he mentioned it but I will be using it as back up. Thats a good idea.
Another thing you could do...hook up a battery charger to you car and just keep it on a "trickle" charge while editing and plug the laptop into the cigarette lighter to power it. Then you shouldn't have any power problems...even if you lose electric in your house you still have the car battery keeping you online allowing you to finish with the upload. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
My laptop died on my 50% into a load with ls1 eidt. I was on the side of the highway when it happened. I was changing my shift points and needed a long strech of road. I had to have my car towed to my house. To make a long story short, I took my PCM out and gave it to Ken at Carputing. He was able to recover it. Ken has developed a new way to recover corruped PCMs.
Get the software, it will be the best money you ever spent.
C battery charger. The reason being: Your PCM is communicating to your com adapter via a bipolar 0-12volt signal. If you've got a common 110vac powered battery charger hooked up and pluged in, your bound to get some small millivolt leakage from the rectifier. This leakage of AC voltage (bipolar!) can easily ripple through your entire cars electrical system; including corrupting the ATA signal as your flashing the PCM eeprom. Someone used the term "Dirty Voltage" and that pretty much sums it up. Carputing warns against the use of a battery charger for obvious reasons.The solution of hooking up an auxiliary battery supply via jumper cables has got to be the simplest/safest means around this problem.
I hope this helps a few ........... 1002
I never even thought about that...glad you caught me on that one.
My bad <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
Leo
-Andrew
Andrew's totally correct. I have had the occasion to lose communication with a couple of PCM's in the past and LS1 PCM's are recoverable by simply taking the PCM to a dealship and loading your original flash into the PCM via your VIN. The only problem is that most dealerships need your car or a similar one to act as the cabling to the PCM. They use a Tech 2 and a PC that would have TIS2000 software loaded onto it. It's a very simple procedure.
BTW, FWIW, the most common cause of a miscommunication, in my world, is when a car has a cheap, aftermarket car alarm system on it that's been wired using the ALDL post's + or - connections. That's a big no-no! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />





