Flash Gordon

MAF translator, autotap, etc. Which is the best to use for a header install and the avg. bolt on's in the future (lid, ported TB & MAM).

Right know after my header install, black smoke comes out at WOT, so im guessing it my A/F ratio.

This is all new to me, so don't rant on me to bad <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Thank for the help <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ April 15, 2002, 08:12 AM: Message edited by: Flash Gordon ]</small>

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

MAFT and A-tap.A basic tune I see is +5% at base and -2% at WOT on the MAFT.Ussually after header install the idle and cruising needs more fuel,so the computer compensates and gets it back to 14.7-1 A/F which is good.The problem is it shifts the WOT tables onto the rich side,That is why your blowing smoke because it is way too rich.Mine was 10.5-1 A/F at WOT after headers <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Your car sounds a tad rich. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Could be just the headers or it could be you damaged an O2 sensor during the swap.

The BEST way to tune is to buy LS1Edit, ATAP and visit a wideband dyno or go to the track with a portable wideband. It is also expensive.

A less expensive way is use a MAFT and ATAP and combine it with track runs and tweak it until you stop getting faster.

For an M6 you might be able to lean the car using ported MAF ends.

Flash Gordon

thanks for the replys guys