Was driving home the other night, and the car started spittin' and coughin'. Looked down, noticed the tach wasn't working. I ran it as far as I could, but it was really hurting. Finally got it to my buddies house and ran an OBDII scanner on it. Got the codes P0335 and P0336. So, we looked under and found a few wires had fried between the headers and the body. We cut and replaced the wires and thought everything would be dandy. Went to restart it, and nothing. It cranked over, but nothing caught. We checked for fuel and found there was no fuel pressure. Does one of those codes cut the fuel pump? I have also heard that the P0336 code can only be cleared at the dealer. I reset the PCM, still nothing. NEED HELP!! Can anyone help me?? PLEEAAASSSEEE! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

 

What headers do you have? I am not sure why your car isn't turning over.

TTT

Good luck and keep us posted.

ERic

 

P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Perform

Fuse blown ?

CKS does need a Tech-II to relearn, without it, calibration is wrong. 336 says it is out of range ( relearn)

Fried sensor or circuit on PCM ?

Bad splices ?

In any case CKS must be relearned.

<small>[ May 13, 2002, 09:59 PM: Message edited by: Team ZR-1 ]</small>

 

Thanks for the input. I'll let you know what happens. Looks like I'll be towing it to the dealer... (Ego killer) How embarassing to have a 10 second Camaro being towed to the dealership!

 

My car is occasionally doing that problem I had before, where the ignition cuts out, and it backfires. We rewired the crank sensor last fall, and replaced the crank sensor too. I check our new wire and it looks good, Maybe the motor is torquing up so much that it is pulling on the wire.

There are several important wires that run near the #4 and #6 header primaries, like one of the front 02 wires, starter wires, and CKP wire.

 

I use to get that code as well. I had to do CKP relearn twice. It only happened right after I left the track. Also I noticed that both times it either rained at the track or it was raining on the way home. I looked all over and could not find any exposed wires. The problem never came back post the last relearn. Granite I did stop running the car at the track if the weather man mentioned rain.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Well, thanks for the added input. I swapped sensors again and the problem persisted. But I did notice when I was cranking the fuel gauge wasn't registering. I knew I had at least 3/4 tank in there, so I figured there must be a fuse bad somewhere. So, I was looking at the fuse box and noticed the PCM/BAT fuse was gone! Evidently we had misplaced it in trying to reset the computer. So, I popped in a 10 amp and the thing started right up... Surprisingly, it didn't require a relearn or anything.

Talk about elation! I drove to my girlfriend's and revved outside her window, drove to my buddy's, revved outside his window... Then I got home and the thing quit again. Couldn't get it restarted. I hit the key, and the dash was dead. Looked in the fuse box, the 50 amp ignition fuse was toast. Replaced it, same thing. Pulled the starter, checked for a short, nothing. I rewrapped some wires, but it still persisted. Soooo, back to the drawing board. It's so damn tight in there with the headers, starter, and all the wires... I think this will be an easy fix compared to the rest of the crap we have had to deal with lately... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by HOSS99:
[QB]I’m currently experiencing the exact same problem!

Application – 99’SS M6 Convertible.

Mods - Whisper Lid | K&N | SLP LS6 Intake | SLP LT’s | RT Cats | SLP Factory Dual/Dual |
MTI B1 CAM | Comp 918’s | MTI Push Rods | New Oil Pump | LS1 Edit

Summary – Last week I had B1 Cam package, and new oil pump installed, and dyno tuned with LS1 EDIT. Yesterday I .had the Revlimiter bumped from 6500 to 6600 using LS1 edit, and drove the car for about 1 mile. Took of hard from a roll up to about 5500rpm’s and shifted hard. Stop at next light, take off slow and notice the Tach isn’t working, and the car is coughing and sputtering. Drove about 1 mile back to Installer. Turn off car and it won’t start up. Installer runs scanner – No codes only a lot of misfires. Disconnects battery for 5 minutes. Car Starts but runs like Hell.

What could be wrong???

Long version – B1 Cam | 918 Springs | MTI PushRods | New Oil Pump (Insurance) installed last week.

Last week - B1 Cam | 918 Springs | MTI PushRods | New Oil Pump (Insurance) installed

5/09 Thursday - Dyno Tuned using LS1 Edit
Driven 8 miles – Everything seems fine

5/10 Friday – Driven 50 miles - Everything seems fine

5/15 Wednesday – Driven 5 miles
- Went to installer to have a small coolant leak looked at.
- Intaller put new clamps an hoses going to H20 pump

Problem begins here – Ask installer to bump rev limited from 6500 to 6600?

- Installer bump rev limited to 6600.
- Start car up to head back to work. Everything OK
- Drive car for 1 mile turn around and pull it to about 5500rpm, and shift hard. Everything seems OK
- Stop @ light, take off sloe and notice the TACH isn’t working and car is now coughing and sputtering.
- Go back to installer
- Turn off car, Car won’t restart
- Runs the scanner No codes show, only a lot of misfires.
- Disconnect battery for 5 minutes, Starts up but runs like hell –a lot of misses.
- Installer suggests it could be crank or camshaft position sensor, or maybe a broken spring.
- Leave car to go to work.
- Installer removes valve cover to check Valve train – Everything seems normal

5/16 Thursday – Waiting to hear from Installer.

I’ll inform him of these possibilities. I read in another post -

- CKS needs Tech II to relearn. (What is Tech II?) – Team ZR1
- Rewire Crank Sensor, and replace Crank sensor – Pro Stock John
- Several Important wires that run near the #4 and #6 header primaries, - PSJ
- like one of the front 02 wires
- starter wires
- CKP wire.
- CKP Relearn - Vince
- Blown Fuse – Black Magic
- PCM/BAT
- 50 Amp Ignition Fuse
- Short Somewhere?
- Loose Ground Somewhere - XtraCajunSS

Thanks,
Bryan

<small>[ May 16, 2002, 10:23 AM: Message edited by: HOSS99 ]</small>

 

Electrical problems suck!

To blow a 50amp fuse you have something wrong for sure. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I'll be playing with my CKP wire and some others this weekend.

 

THe reason I kept blowing the 50 amp fuse was because the starter solenoid went bad. There is a wire from inside the solenoid, and it has a bit of factory solder on it. Well, the solder broke and that was the problem. Then we fixed that, went to start it, but the gear wouldn't pop out. We put a new starter in it and everything has been fine since. Except, now my low oil light is on all the time. YESSSSSS!!! My oil level is fine. At least the car runs. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />