The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

I'm gonna go back down and get the exact codes and #'s before I go to the movies.

Could a bad set of O2 sensors cause this?

Could the O2's be bad at 25K miles? I haven't been to the track but I drive it like it's meant to be driven <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

I also ran lean periodically local driving and at the top of 4th; I thought a 3" Y would cause me to run rich? Is this the culprit? Because before the Y was installed, my L terms and O2's were perfect with no knock.

RTCamaroSS

by the description of the code.. bank 1 sensor 1.. it sounds like you have a bad forward o2 sensor on bank 1.. which i think is the drive side.. i could be wrong. Since the code also refers to the heater circuit in the o2.. it could have a bad heater.. i know on toyota o2's you can use your ohmmeter on the 2 black wires.. and if you have an infininate resitance, the heater is bad.. need a new o2... If you replace that o2 sensor, replace the other one.. One new o2 and one old can cause problems.. one will have switch more and cause more codes (ive had this problem on lexus's).. No need to replace the rear o2's.. they just about never go bad...

felton316

Did you just put on headers? I had the same problem with my LT's. It took a while to fix it, (tried new O2's, didn't help) but in the end I just had to disconnect my battery, then let the PCM relearn idle. Initially I still got the code but it turned itself off around 40 miles later. (I checked to make sure the SES light didn't just burn out either <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ) The car now runs great (Ltrims around +4%) but no SES light.

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RTCamaroSS:
<strong>.. it sounds like you have a bad forward o2 sensor on bank 1.. Since the code also refers to the heater circuit in the o2.. it could have a bad heater... If you replace that o2 sensor, replace the other one.. One new o2 and one old can cause problems.. one will have switch more and cause more codes...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yup.
2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 codes and one heater circuit code.

Got the Heater circuit code last week and when I tapped this week, I got the bank codes. Maybe it's just a bad heater circuit which is screwin' with the O2's <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by felton316:
<strong> Did you just put on headers? . . . but in the end I just had to disconnect my battery, then let the PCM relearn idle. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yup. Put the Hookers on a couple of weeks ago and got the heater circuit code. Put the 3" Hooker Y on last week and got the O2 codes. Could the O2 have been disconnected or loosened when my exhaust guy installed the Y??

I'm gonna do the 10 minute baterry thing and see what happens. Thanks!!!

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ June 05, 2002, 04:28 AM: Message edited by: The Dragon ]</small>

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

I just realized something when I read http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...eadid=102196My SES light would have come on if the O2 was bad but it did not come on.

Maybe the baterry thing will work <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

<small>[ June 05, 2002, 04:45 AM: Message edited by: The Dragon ]</small>

Tracer X

I got those EXACT same codes the other day. I barely scrapped my LTs on a couple of Speed bumps that day though. I wonder if that caused it. But I cleared the codes that night and haven't gotten any SES codes since. That was Last Sat. And I've put on more than 200 miles since then. My car is still running like a champ. I'll let you know if the codes come back.

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Just to update for anyone who might access this thread in the future with similar problems: the O2's were fine.

It was definitely a false code. Heat soak from the welding of the Headers and Y caused the flash. felton316 was right, just disconnect the baterry and you'll be fine.