F13 tuning help needed
Also bottom of intake tube was not on TB. Fixed that and cleaned the plugs and got another .hpi if anyone is interested in looking at it. I think that was part of my problem!
Chris
Chris
f13 I agree 26 degrees is really low timing for that car I did my buddies ta which is almost identical to yours and he pulled 395rwhp 380 rwtq and ran 11.95 in the 1/4. Those numbers were on a mustang dyno though so they would be higher on a dynojet.
Originally Posted by NufNuffZ28
Well, 1st background on the car. Mods and dyno #'s before the cam as follows
1999 SS M6 with 4:10 gears and 315 rear tires and 115k miles on it.
Lid with K&N
home ported TB
LS6 intake
ASP pulley
!EGR
!AIR
SLP long tubes with random tech cats(pretty much hollow)
Borla catback with open plate
hardened pushrods
~with the above I made 346/360
add
F13
PRC dual springs
ported oil pump
Comp cams timing chain
New dyno numbers CORRECTED are 362/360
total timing was 26 and A/F was OK, but not too far off(ie high 13's)
So far I have deleted all codes, raised the rev limiter, and adjusted the fuel some to get a good a/f ratio.
Aborted runs as knew tuning wouldn't get me too much more and that something else may be amiss.
Cam off a tooth is pretty much out of the question as we turned it over several times and checked it. Also peaks were at the right spot(HP around 6100) Torque peaked around 5k, and charts weren't rough or anything either.
Also replaced in the last 3k were fuel filter, plugs, and wires.
Car runs smooth(as much as a cam car can) so I wouldn't think a plug or something was dropped on reinstall, but wouldnt a misfire or ignition show up as a choppy graph?
Is there ANYONE local(im in Durham) that can help me get my tune on some without charging an arm and a leg? I'm happy to pay some though!!!
Chris
1999 SS M6 with 4:10 gears and 315 rear tires and 115k miles on it.
Lid with K&N
home ported TB
LS6 intake
ASP pulley
!EGR
!AIR
SLP long tubes with random tech cats(pretty much hollow)
Borla catback with open plate
hardened pushrods
~with the above I made 346/360
add
F13
PRC dual springs
ported oil pump
Comp cams timing chain
New dyno numbers CORRECTED are 362/360
total timing was 26 and A/F was OK, but not too far off(ie high 13's)
So far I have deleted all codes, raised the rev limiter, and adjusted the fuel some to get a good a/f ratio.
Aborted runs as knew tuning wouldn't get me too much more and that something else may be amiss.
Cam off a tooth is pretty much out of the question as we turned it over several times and checked it. Also peaks were at the right spot(HP around 6100) Torque peaked around 5k, and charts weren't rough or anything either.
Also replaced in the last 3k were fuel filter, plugs, and wires.
Car runs smooth(as much as a cam car can) so I wouldn't think a plug or something was dropped on reinstall, but wouldnt a misfire or ignition show up as a choppy graph?
Is there ANYONE local(im in Durham) that can help me get my tune on some without charging an arm and a leg? I'm happy to pay some though!!!
Chris
tune Chris let me see your tune ericvasquez79@yahoo.com Your timing should at the very least be around 31 and just add more fuel in the PE table and you should be set.
Originally Posted by NufNuffZ28
Well, did some work on it tonight. Turned around teh set screw on teh TB so that I can adjust the idle a little and help with the surging, replaced my O2, and pulled a couple plugs. Here they are
I can e-mail it to you if you throw me your e-mail, but not sure how to post it! I need some PT tuning for SURE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pretty fouled. I believe the stock tune was soo out of whack it fouled out my plugs over the course of driving it before. Now I gotta get this Part throttle stuff down!!!
Anyone wanna help with that??
Chris
I can e-mail it to you if you throw me your e-mail, but not sure how to post it! I need some PT tuning for SURE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pretty fouled. I believe the stock tune was soo out of whack it fouled out my plugs over the course of driving it before. Now I gotta get this Part throttle stuff down!!!
Anyone wanna help with that??
Chris
Are you getting a lot of white smoke at idle? If you are, your likely very rich in those cells. That will affect driveability big time, especially the bucking and surging on decel. A good rule of thumb is to multiply the first three VE columns by .6/.7/.8 ON THE STOCK TUNE. This should lean out the VE table enough to get you going in SD mode. I'm in the midst of relearning my LTFTs to continue my VE tuning, and from the looks of it, I'll be pulling another 7-10% from many of the cells in the VE table below 4000 rpms.
Another big thing that will help with your in gear idle and the bucking/surging you're experiencing is to change your Base Running Airflow table. RedHardSupra has a great excel file I could send you to help you do this. It's very easy to do, and IMO a must BEFORE any VE tuning. The last thing you want to do is stall out at a light during your test runs!
Another big thing that will help with your in gear idle and the bucking/surging you're experiencing is to change your Base Running Airflow table. RedHardSupra has a great excel file I could send you to help you do this. It's very easy to do, and IMO a must BEFORE any VE tuning. The last thing you want to do is stall out at a light during your test runs!
One other thing, since you flipped the TB set screw, log you IAC position and sensor voltage in idle. You're shooting for about 40-50 counts on the IAC and a voltage reading of around .6V or less. You can accomplish this by drilling a hole in your TB and adjusting the set screw.
Many guys will tell you not to drill the hole, cause you can get your counts in line without it, but by cranking your set screw down that far, you change the voltage reading on the sensor, and your PCM could up in the wrong fuel cell. For example, before drilling out my TB, I just played with my set screw to get my IAC counts down, and at warm idle, the PCM put me in "cold idle" because my voltage reading was .75V
A good starting point is to drill a second hole in the TB 3/32". Just my 0.02
Many guys will tell you not to drill the hole, cause you can get your counts in line without it, but by cranking your set screw down that far, you change the voltage reading on the sensor, and your PCM could up in the wrong fuel cell. For example, before drilling out my TB, I just played with my set screw to get my IAC counts down, and at warm idle, the PCM put me in "cold idle" because my voltage reading was .75V
A good starting point is to drill a second hole in the TB 3/32". Just my 0.02
