5.slowklr

I've been working on getting my car tuned right for a while now. I thought I had it perfect with the mods in the sig and the MAFT set at base 15% rich and WOT 4% rich. However when I was on the dyno this weekend I lost 6 RWHP and 6 RWTQ compared to my previous dyno with no Ported ends or MAFT. I changed my base setting to 10% rich (with no learning time <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> ) and my WOT setting to 0 and pulled a new best 333RWHP and 343 RWTQ but realize my PCM has probably learned the new setting since then. Now I think my LTtrims look better with the base setting set 10% rich as opposed to 15% rich. They now average anywhere from -.26 to .59 as opposed to -1.2 to-1.8. But my 02's seem lean .87 with WOT set at 0 and .88 with WOT set at 2% rich. I got KR in both ATAP logs but a lot more with WOT set at 0. Here are my questions:

1. Am I better off with my LTtrims being a little on the positive side or negative side?

2. Should I have to set my WOT switch to the rich side at all?

3. How will FTRA affect my A/F as opposed to being still on a dyno?

4. Is there an acceptable level of KR or should it be zero at all time?

5. Should I try moving my base switch to 5% rich to see how my car reacts or just change my WOT switch to 4% rich to get my 02's up a little and eliminate KR?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

1) slightly negative is better.
2) probably not when you had the base at 15% rich.
3) potentially could lean you out a bit since you have ported ends.
4) I perfer zero, but an occassional 1 degree of KR doesn't hurt much.
5) No, use the base to set your LTRIMs slightly negative. Use the WOT setting to fine tune WOT.

5.slowklr

So would it be accurate to say that I should keep going rich with base until I can safely go 0 or lean on WOT? It seems like ported MAF ends and MAFT may not be worth it. I was 12.7:1 on the dyno (with base at 10% rich and WOT at 0) and did make 7 RWHP over my last dyno. But the first time I ATAPed it afterwards I was getting up to 3.6 degrees of KR. I did get barely no KR at base 10% rich wot 2% rich but this is probably hurting my HP numbers. I think base 10% rich and WOT 4% rich will be safe but again may hurt me on the dyno. I'm starting to think an A/F gauge is necessary to tune your car properly. Because moving on the roads with FTRA and being stationary on a dyno are 2 different things.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I think this may be a problem between dyno tuning and the real world..supposedly I think a 12.5 to 13.1 I think gives best power..but in the real world if you tune for max power on the dyno then maybe you will be too lean on hot days and start getting knock retard so that will take away any possible gains likely.You should have near zero knock retard..I do..like was said maybe a degree once in awhile but much higher and I think you have to richen things up.I just set my base so my ltrims at part throttle acceleration are slightly negative or zero..that is supposed to make ltrims go zero at full throttle so your wot settings don't get messed with like it would if the ltrims are positive..the car adjusts at part throttle to 14.7 anyway so no need to really care about things at part throttle.I find not much if any knock retard at plus 2 setting right now on my maft..about .890..any less say .880 or .870 you can start getting the dreaded knock retard.it does depend on some other variables..coolant temp,outside temps..humidity,octane in your fuel..
some days you will still get knock retard and have to dial it up a notch usually on cooler days you can maybe dial it down a notch.

DolfanZ28

Well I want no knock retard at all so I went 10% rich on base and 4% rich at WOT and it accomplished this. I will tune more agressively at the track.