SES light after Hooker LT install...
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From: Deer Park
SES light after Hooker LT install... I installed my Jet -Hot caoted LT's and ORYP last Wednesday. Everything was fine- great sound through the Corsa- minor burble from 2000-2800. Anyway, I was driving along late Thursday and my SES light came on after approximately 100 miles. I reset the PCM and it stayed off for approximately 80 miles. Then Saturday after it had been on for about 110 miles- it went off all by itself and has not come back on. WTF??? I don't have a scanner, but I'm assuming that since it took 100 miles to originally come on, and then another 80 to come on after reset- that it has something to do with the AIR pump and it's self test (I bent the AIR tubes during install to make them fit to the flanges on the Hookers- I have an '01 and the flanges on the headers are for the '98-'99)
If it were the o2 simms then the light should have come on immediately- right? Not to mention stayed on? I have double checked all connections and the AIR tube is the only thing I can think of. Anything else it might be?
If it were the o2 simms then the light should have come on immediately- right? Not to mention stayed on? I have double checked all connections and the AIR tube is the only thing I can think of. Anything else it might be?
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Walled Lake, MI
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... just FYI...
i had all of my O2 sensors disconnected, and i drove for about 50 or more miles before the SES light came on. it sounds like you've got a bad O2 simm to me.
-Ryan
i had all of my O2 sensors disconnected, and i drove for about 50 or more miles before the SES light came on. it sounds like you've got a bad O2 simm to me.
-Ryan
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From: Mi./Al.
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... Being you don't have a scanner I would suggest you take your car to AutoZone, they will hook up there scanner and tell what code you have and it's Free . Let's us know if you find out what code you have, good luck.
Al
Al
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From: Deer Park
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... Okay- I got my hands on a scanner and it spit out 2 codes. 1133- HO2S Insufficient switching Bank 1 Sensor 1 and 1153 HO2S Insufficient switching Bank 2 Sensor 1. I am assuming that these are my FRONT O2 sensors and not my O2 simms. I can only assume as well that I somehow managed to mess these up during the install- Is that correct? I will try to install the back two spares in and see if that works. Also, someone told me you could use brake cleaner to clean the filament without damaging it. Is that correct? I probably got some never sieze on the filament or something.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Streamwood, IL
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... I just installed my TTS headers a little while back and I have an SES light. My codes are:
P1153 H02S Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0161 H02S Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
Looks like we have a similar problem. Can anyone help?
P1153 H02S Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0161 H02S Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
Looks like we have a similar problem. Can anyone help?
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Deer Park
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... Okay- I called Holley and they told me to make absolutely sure that there were NO exhaust leaks at the flange, on the AIR tube connections or EGR block off plate. I checked the slip fit collectors and guess what? The f$%kers were leaking! Black streaks shooting out from the slits in the outer pipe. Dammit! Anyway- I started tightening the ever living **** out of them and the cheap *** clamo that came with the headers broke. AHHH!!
So I called Thunderracing and Paul is sending out 3 new heavy duty clamps like the ones that came with my Corsa.
I'm gonna clamp those things so tight that it'll be 2.5" instead of 3" collector when I'm done.
So I called Thunderracing and Paul is sending out 3 new heavy duty clamps like the ones that came with my Corsa.
I'm gonna clamp those things so tight that it'll be 2.5" instead of 3" collector when I'm done.
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... I installed Hooker LT's and ORP 1 month ago, and I've been fighting with the same codes. I've checked for exhaust leaks at the header flanges and collectors....nothing. There is a slight leak where the y-pipe connects to the intermediate, but I seriously doubt that fresh air can travel that far up the exhaust.
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... You probably busted your front sensors. If you still have the rear sensors that you removed for your orp, you can hook them up in the front and see if that fixes it.
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... I've already checked the sensors, and that's not the problem. I've done extensive diagnosis in the past 4 weeks and still haven't found a solution. Here is a summary of what I've done:
1. Checked the O2 harness connections and routing
2. Checked for excessive harness resistance
3. Measured the O2 mounting depth in the headers vs. the stock manifolds
4. Checked for exhaust leaks at the flanges, collectors, and AIR tubes
5. Recorded extensive Autotap data - the mixture was rich
6. Leaned the mixture with ported MAF ends
The O2 sensors are functioning, but they are not switching from rich to lean properly. If they switch less than 30 times within the set parameters it will set DTC's. My B1S1 is switching 1-2 times and B2S1 is 8-9 times. I have talked to several people who are having the same problem after intalling Hooker LT's.
<small>[ August 02, 2002, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: SSMAN66 ]</small>
1. Checked the O2 harness connections and routing
2. Checked for excessive harness resistance
3. Measured the O2 mounting depth in the headers vs. the stock manifolds
4. Checked for exhaust leaks at the flanges, collectors, and AIR tubes
5. Recorded extensive Autotap data - the mixture was rich
6. Leaned the mixture with ported MAF ends
The O2 sensors are functioning, but they are not switching from rich to lean properly. If they switch less than 30 times within the set parameters it will set DTC's. My B1S1 is switching 1-2 times and B2S1 is 8-9 times. I have talked to several people who are having the same problem after intalling Hooker LT's.
<small>[ August 02, 2002, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: SSMAN66 ]</small>
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From: Princeton, IN
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... 99% sure you have a leak, trust me I know been down this road. 8 weeks of that and I finally found the leak and patched it. Code did not go away after I fixed the leak; I had to get two new o2's. I killed 4 o2’s testing the problem. Do not put your rear o2’s in until you get the leak fixed. The o2’s are 90+ a pop. PS The rears are the same as the front. The wire is a little longer on the passenger’s side
From what I have read the leak can be up to 10 inches away from the o2 and cause this problem. If you where leaking at the AIR, or where the header bolts to the motor.
If you have a scanner post the o2 sensor mvolts. If the sensors volts are not moving back and forth from about .7 to .1 or .2 then you have a leak. If your o2 stays around .4 to .6 then you will trip “Insufficient Switching”
Did you put any antiseize on the o2’s? if so that could be the problem
<small>[ August 03, 2002, 02:56 PM: Message edited by: dissonance ]</small>
From what I have read the leak can be up to 10 inches away from the o2 and cause this problem. If you where leaking at the AIR, or where the header bolts to the motor.
If you have a scanner post the o2 sensor mvolts. If the sensors volts are not moving back and forth from about .7 to .1 or .2 then you have a leak. If your o2 stays around .4 to .6 then you will trip “Insufficient Switching”
Did you put any antiseize on the o2’s? if so that could be the problem
<small>[ August 03, 2002, 02:56 PM: Message edited by: dissonance ]</small>
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... What header gaskets did everyone use....and did you use sealant? I have talked to several people who have the same codes after installing headers. I'm curious if there are some gasket types that don't seal well with certain headers. I used new GM gaskets with no sealant. I torqued in 3 steps, alternating outward from the center. I don't have any visible signs of external leaks (no residue), and spraying soapy water on the header flanges at the cylinder heads does not produce any signs of leakage.
Also, is everyone using O2 harness extensions.....and if so, what length. I recently got a response from someone who switched from the excessive Hooker-supplied extensions to 12" extensions - no more codes.
<small>[ August 04, 2002, 03:17 PM: Message edited by: SSMAN66 ]</small>
Also, is everyone using O2 harness extensions.....and if so, what length. I recently got a response from someone who switched from the excessive Hooker-supplied extensions to 12" extensions - no more codes.
<small>[ August 04, 2002, 03:17 PM: Message edited by: SSMAN66 ]</small>
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From: Deer Park
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... Okay- I got it fixed. I called Thunder Racing and ordered 3 of their wide band clamps. They are like 3" wide and heavy duty compared with what came with the headers. After I installed those, I reset the PCM and I have not had a light in over 300 miles. The clamps were 10 bucks each. Now it seems I'm running fat- Dammit.
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... My car was running very rich after the headers, y-pipe, and exhaust. My idle L-trims (cells 17-20) were around -11.0, part throttle was around -8.0, and WOT O2's were around .945. I ported my MAF and leaned it out....a little too much. So I installed a MAFT and dialed it in. Now the car acts like it's starving for fuel on the top end and the injector duty cycle is 100% by 6000 rpm. So now I guess it's time for larger injectors.....and subsequently more tuning. It never ends, so get used to it and enjoy it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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From: Deer Park
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... so should I go straight ahead with the custom tuning now and save myself some money in lieu of buying the MAFT and doing the programming anyway? It sounds to me like that is the only real fix and the MAFT is just a patch. Also how hard would this be to fix with LS1edit and ATAP? I've never used them, but I pick things up quickly.
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 278
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From: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: SES light after Hooker LT install... I had a host of problems, and I'm very happy to say that I've solved all of them <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
The SES light with P1133 and/or P1153 after header installation is caused by exhaust leaks. I had some very small leaks at the slip fit on the header collectors, and where the y-pipe meets the intermediate pipe. They weren't leaking externally, but they were pulling in air while driving. The clamps supplied by Hooker are virtually worthless. They don't exert any force directly below where the bolt is. I welded on flanges at both collectors and at the intermediate pipe....no more leaks. After fixing the leaks I still had the SES light. I replaced the O2 sensors....no more codes.
After the leaks were fixed the engine was running very rich. I ported the MAF ends and it went lean at cruise and rich at WOT. I dialed it in with a MAFT. I had to go 15% rich on the base and 8% lean at WOT. I dynoed today....348.2 rwhp / 359.6 rwtq <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
The SES light with P1133 and/or P1153 after header installation is caused by exhaust leaks. I had some very small leaks at the slip fit on the header collectors, and where the y-pipe meets the intermediate pipe. They weren't leaking externally, but they were pulling in air while driving. The clamps supplied by Hooker are virtually worthless. They don't exert any force directly below where the bolt is. I welded on flanges at both collectors and at the intermediate pipe....no more leaks. After fixing the leaks I still had the SES light. I replaced the O2 sensors....no more codes.
After the leaks were fixed the engine was running very rich. I ported the MAF ends and it went lean at cruise and rich at WOT. I dialed it in with a MAFT. I had to go 15% rich on the base and 8% lean at WOT. I dynoed today....348.2 rwhp / 359.6 rwtq <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />