Interesting IAT question
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I did some digging into Edit, and the only real differences that I could find are timing. If your intake charge is 40 deg F hotter, then your timing will be advanced +3 more than it should leading to KR. However, with the 40 deg F hotter intake charge, fuel is only bumped up ~4% (from what I could find).
I think that your MAF will be more accurate prior to the whipple. The air flow will be straighter. The velocity of the air might be higher than what the MAF was calibrated for, so there is a good chance that alot of air is getting by that it isn't "seeing". The higher the velocity, the more induced turbulent flow, the less straight the air yadda yadda.... I think.
I would keep the MAF where it is, and just move the IAT sensor to the appropriate place. Then use Edit and recal your MAF.
Just my suggestion
Good Luck
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<small>[ August 13, 2002, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: Will ]</small>
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The maf senses air by heating the little wires that hang in the air flow area, and then when air is pulled by them it cools them a little. If that’s true (which I’m not sure of) the hotter air, the more the maf would be off on the amount of air it’s detecting.
I have only been around a few FI cars, so I really don’t know that much about them. I would say the maf would work better befor the blower if the maf/pcm was tuned for it.
On ls1's web site the pic's of the bowers show the maf before the supercharger
Here’s a picture
http://www.ls1speed.com/catalogimages/vortech_ls1.gif
<small>[ August 13, 2002, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: dissonance ]</small>
on my truck i am in a part of the timing curve where it only asks for 6-9deg of timing and if the IAT was seeing high temps it would pull as much as 10deg of timing.
i would like to see what the actual intake temps are, i could see if you did move it and were using some kind of water injection it could act as a back up if you were to run out of water, if the temps went way high it could pull lots of timing alowing you to program in more timing. i want to know where you put the sensor and what sensor you get if you move it.
At this point Will has not measured the airstream from the SC and it could be higher then the value he used in his example above.
Being he is running 9 PSI boost and no intercooler, with the VE it could easy go over 110 F.
IAT is part of the math PCM uses for AFR being if it gets IAT before SC gets it hands on it, then it thinks air into inrake is close to outside air temp but due to compressing the air, heats up, PCM does not know that and you end up with a super lean condition.
If a least he mounts a IAT like on C5s which is on airbridge right before throttle body the PCM would be getting better temps from SC and commanding longer injector pulse widths.
With larger injectors he may get close but without intercooler may be forced to go 6 rather then 9 PSI boost.
I doubt 28 lb injectors can handle the existing SC setup.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by parish8:
<strong>will, there may be a problem with moving the IAT sensor, not sure who told me this but they thought that the IAT would be maxed out most of the time if it was placed after the blower, the table in ls1edit only goes to something like 190deg. if it was pegged at 190deg all the time it wouldn't do much good either.
on my truck i am in a part of the timing curve where it only asks for 6-9deg of timing and if the IAT was seeing high temps it would pull as much as 10deg of timing.
i would like to see what the actual intake temps are, i could see if you did move it and were using some kind of water injection it could act as a back up if you were to run out of water, if the temps went way high it could pull lots of timing alowing you to program in more timing. i want to know where you put the sensor and what sensor you get if you move it.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
i agree it would be better to tell the computer what the real temps are and then adjust from there.
I think and intercooler would work wonders for you.





