PCM Diagnostics & Tuning HP Tuners | Holley | Diablo

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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 01:44 AM
  #1  
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Hey, I've never tuned a car. Hell, I never even looked at a tuning program. I do know my fair share though, but I want to know is if I am getting screwed. See, here is my problem. From a shop I am now going to, I have been told my tune has some issues. This is not news to me. In fact, at just about every cut of the steering wheel, a/c off or not, my rpms are lucky to be above 400. About almost half the time it does this, it dies. My car surges in third, and even fourth gear. From wide open throttle, to pushing the clutch in, my car either drops to 400 rpm or lower, even dying, or it will surge up to 2900 rpms and sit there for even up to 10-15 seconds after I come to a complete stop. I have done the throttle body drill with the size that is on ls1howto.com. I don't remember what that was though. Now, my car made respectable power, but unfortunately, my cam is not the best for any application really. I didn't pick it, the shop did for me, and now that I have learned more about cam theory, my cam just doesn't make sense. None the less, it only have 4 degrees of overlap. It is a 230/234 on a 113+2. Not the biggest cam by any means. That cam was in my camaro and idled fine, with none of these issues. Now, the shop that has currently tuned my car explains to me that he can't make it drive better because LS1 edit doens't do well with 02 vehicles. See, it is not just the car shutting off that bugs me. It does it alot when I pull out in traffic, almost causing wrecks on several occassions. It is not my driving. I am a good stick shift driver and to further my point, I can have the car in neutral turning and it will die. I have lost power braking and steering at 100+ mph because the car is trying to die in neutral. To make things worse, it wont just start back up, I have to crank it for sevral seconds before it'll fire back up. Now, I have gone back for tweaking once allready. Like I said, am I getting screwed because this guy can't tune, or is there truth to the idea that LS1 edit doesn't cooperate with 02 f-body's. BTW, my car is an M6. Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 01:51 AM
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It makes not a damn bit of difference what year it is.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael55123
It makes not a damn bit of difference what year it is.
That is what I was thinking. In fact, I think I'll give the tuner one more chance and then if he can't get it right, then I'll just ask him to load my stock tune back and give me a refund. By far the worse $400 I've ever spent. I think from now on, MTI is going to be my shop. I know for sure they don't think that more duration means more power ALWAYS. Oh, and I might get to turn into a parking space peacfully and without looking like an idiot that can't drive stick.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 04:07 AM
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Know what you mean, last time I drove my car it died when I was backing out of a parking space at the bank and didn't want to start back. Some old lady pulled up, waited a minute, then honked the horn and gave me the finger.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mnc2886
Hey, I've never tuned a car. Hell, I never even looked at a tuning program. I do know my fair share though, but I want to know is if I am getting screwed. See, here is my problem. From a shop I am now going to, I have been told my tune has some issues. This is not news to me. In fact, at just about every cut of the steering wheel, a/c off or not, my rpms are lucky to be above 400. About almost half the time it does this, it dies. My car surges in third, and even fourth gear. From wide open throttle, to pushing the clutch in, my car either drops to 400 rpm or lower, even dying, or it will surge up to 2900 rpms and sit there for even up to 10-15 seconds after I come to a complete stop. I have done the throttle body drill with the size that is on ls1howto.com. I don't remember what that was though. Now, my car made respectable power, but unfortunately, my cam is not the best for any application really. I didn't pick it, the shop did for me, and now that I have learned more about cam theory, my cam just doesn't make sense. None the less, it only have 4 degrees of overlap. It is a 230/234 on a 113+2. Not the biggest cam by any means. That cam was in my camaro and idled fine, with none of these issues. Now, the shop that has currently tuned my car explains to me that he can't make it drive better because LS1 edit doens't do well with 02 vehicles. See, it is not just the car shutting off that bugs me. It does it alot when I pull out in traffic, almost causing wrecks on several occassions. It is not my driving. I am a good stick shift driver and to further my point, I can have the car in neutral turning and it will die. I have lost power braking and steering at 100+ mph because the car is trying to die in neutral. To make things worse, it wont just start back up, I have to crank it for sevral seconds before it'll fire back up. Now, I have gone back for tweaking once allready. Like I said, am I getting screwed because this guy can't tune, or is there truth to the idea that LS1 edit doesn't cooperate with 02 f-body's. BTW, my car is an M6. Thanks in advance.

He's wrong...go to someone that know's what the hell he is doing!
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 06:30 PM
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take your $400 add a few more bucks to it and get your own software and WB. You stand a much better chance of getting your tune to your liking if you tune it yourself.

I would highly recommend you to buy www.efilive.com or www.hptuners.com
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TAQuickness
take your $400 add a few more bucks to it and get your own software and WB. You stand a much better chance of getting your tune to your liking if you tune it yourself.

I would highly recommend you to buy www.efilive.com or www.hptuners.com
If I do that, I've got to pay for dyno rental. I would like to try it, but I know MTI cars ride close to stock, so I'm wanting them to tune it. I wont mention names because I don't want **** to start, but believe me, you all would be shocked at who tuned my car. And my car is not an exception from the other tunes I have seen. None of his cars seem to idle smoothly.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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Yeah, youre getting fux0r3d... Good luck getting your money back, it dosnt sound like the kind of operation that cares much for customer service. A competant tuner should be able to get you up idling smoothly anthout much surging or stalling.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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The only thing is that you can't get a WB and tuning/scanning software for anywhere close to 400.00. It is going to cost more than that!
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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they probaly won't refund your money. Sounds like you will have to come up with another $500 to get it done right.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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I wouldn't give him another chance to tune it. Get your stock tune and your money back and go else where.
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