Using LS1Edit, how much rwhp and torque generaly is left to be gained on a full bolt-on car?

<small>[ October 29, 2002, 10:01 AM: Message edited by: bigSS ]</small>

 

Being you are running an off-road pipe, I think there is alot to be gained.

Anywhere from 0-20 HP.

 

NoGo, Just wondering what you would do to gain some hp with a bolt on car. i know you can turn off the cat over heat temp or something like that. but what else? Thanks for your help

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LARRY01Z28:
<strong>NoGo, Just wondering what you would do to gain some hp with a bolt on car. i know you can turn off the cat over heat temp or something like that. but what else? Thanks for your help</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">timing and A/F are the two main things that will net some power. for my friend he was running really rich so I deleted his COT, and then added some timing + 7-8 degrees, and then tweaked his A/F a little bit, im guessing this was worth at least 10-15 rwhp.

 

Nickn20 is right about timing and a/f. These are going to be your main contributors to obtaining power.

RULES OF THUMB FOR TIMING TUNING

Timing changes are made to the High Octane Advance Table. Avoid changes to idle, low rpm high g/cyl, and WOT timing. These should be tuned independantly of part-throttle timing. Here is a thread where I describe a method of timing tuning for part-throttle.

https://ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...=002931#000004

Getting the most out of WOT timing is tricky. The idea is to get the most timing possible without KR. Having a high advance at WOT high is only part of the story. Here are some tips to take your WOT timing to the limit and avoid the KR devil.

1) WOT timing often gets tripped up by the high advance at part-throttle immediatly prior to going to WOT. If you are running into KR that slowly works its way down through the WOT run, don't reduce the WOT timing immediatly. Try reducing timing a few degrees at the point that you go WOT. (ie 3000 rpm .56 g/cyl) and see if that solves the problem. Too much of a reduction in timing though at that point will take away that initial torque punch, so it is a careful balance.

2) Chart your cars WOT timing trend. Do a WOT run and figure out how much air your car is drawing in (via your scantool) across the run. Chart it out as g/cyl (g/cyl = 15 * MAF(g/sec) / RPM). This will give you a good idea of where your WOT timing is being referenced on your table, and you can be sure to adjust around those cells so that you have the desired target timing for your entire WOT run.

3) Timing is very dependant on your a/f. Finding a balance between HP gained by a/f and HP gained by ignition advance is a tricky balance and different on every car. Trying different combination of each (ie richen a/f and advance timing or vice versa) will yield you the best possible results. If you are running into KR, try richening up the mixture a little. See if the HP gained by the timing offsets the the slightly richer a/f. Make only very very very small adjustment to the PE vs RPM table when doing this.

4) Proper gas. There is a big difference between 92 and 94 octane when you are tuning WOT timing on the ragged edge.

5) Coolant Temperature. Try to simulate the same conditions that you expect to run your car at the track. If you make hot runs, then be sure to tune your timing with the coolant temp at normal operating conditions (ie 190 deg).

6) Air Temperature. Be aware that the colder the air temperature, the more timing you will be able to get away with. So, if you did your timing tune on a hot day, there may be untapped power on a cold one.

7) Last but not least. Tuning the timing curve is not done with surgical precision. Once you calculate out the g/cyl and RPM for specific KR locations, you may have to drop timing in more cells than just the reference cell. Usually the cells for the condition (g/cyl and RPM) immediatly prior to the KR. It is alot of educated guesswork, and time.

RULES OF THUMB FOR TUNING A/F on your PE vs RPM tables

1) Get rid of COT (if you have no cats, or don't like your cats).

2) Get the engine up to temperature before tuning.

3) Ported MAF's are the devil.

4) SMALL CHANGES

5) Not every car likes 12.8 a/f. Some cars like 12.5 better. Some like 13.0 better.

Good Luck,
Kevin

 

wow thanks alot guys, nogo, you are the man. you seem to know all kinds of stuff with this editing stuff. lol thanks again guys.

 

Damn I feel ignant!

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

topfig

 

Do you guys think that $500 for LS1 edit tuning is cost effective on a Bolt on car? Or will a $160 MAFT do the job? I am talking lid/headers/Catback/TB/MAF.

-Nick

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by niphilli:
<strong>Do you guys think that $500 for LS1 edit tuning is cost effective on a Bolt on car? Or will a $160 MAFT do the job? I am talking lid/headers/Catback/TB/MAF.

-Nick</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">LS1Edit will be far more effective in the long run. And it is the correct way to tune your A/F, timing, etc. If you buy a MAF-T now, you'll probably end up buying LS1Edit in the future. My .02. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Your computer will also "re-learn" around a MAF-T in several hundred miles.