Ltrims at idle?
So colonel, Why is it OK for dean to be running in the positive +3 to +8.
I might not be understanding something, OPlease clarify?
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This is what happens at WOT: If the LTFTs are positive (PCM is adding fuel during cruising around), when the engine goes WOT, the PCM will add in extra fuel equal to the positive LTFT value. This is in addition to any extra fuel required thru the PE tables.
If the LTFTs are negative while cruising around, when the engine goes into WOT, the PCM will not take away (or add extra) fuel based on the negative LTFT value (the LTFT is set to zero). All extra fuel is gotten only thru the PE tables.
So if you are tuning for max HP at WOT, you do not want extra fuel coming into the fuel equation from the LTFT value. The LTFT value can change a small amount and have a big effect on WOT AFR, if it stays negative, it will not have any effect on the WOT operation of your engine.
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I agree with you completely. For WOT tuning, you need a good wide band O2 sensor, no doubt about it. I assumed that we all know that the stock O2 sensor should not be used to tune WOT because they are not accurate enough to tune such a critical thing as WOT.
I calibrated my MAF table for my GMAF by using the LTFTs while doing part throotle stuff on the street. Once I got the LTFTs under 0% across all RPMs, I worked on the timing table and finally got on a chassis dyno with a AFR meter (wide band O2 sensor). What I found out was that I was at 13.2AFR when my O2 sensors put out 960 to 970mV. Most people would say that I was very rich at WOT with the O2s at 970mV, but that just points out how inaccurate our O2 sensors are. I'm pulling 400RWHP with 28* timing at 6300RPM. Not bad for my setup.
Basically, we need the calibrate our O2 sensors with a known good AFR meter. My O2s read 970mV for 13.2 AFR, but your O2s might put out 860mV for 13.2 AFR.

