idle drops to 500...
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 375
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From: Long Island NY Portsmouth NH Sometimes CT
i dunno but my cars doin the same thing....im cleaning my throttle body (since its aftermarket) and tryin that again....then goin back to stock....
Originally Posted by 68ss_00ss_87_95
i dunno but my cars doin the same thing....im cleaning my throttle body (since its aftermarket) and tryin that again....then goin back to stock....
Any solutions yet for you??
When you say you have !AIR and then you go on to say something about the dip "when the air kicks on." Do you mean that the air pump is still installed and it is turning on and you can hear it? Or do you mean the airconditioner? Either way both of those systems put some load-moreso the AC.
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
From: Long Island NY Portsmouth NH Sometimes CT
didnt work for me....im going to see what some local tuners up here can do...i think mine is due to low injecotr voltage according to the code it pulled....which caused another code to pull making the car "limp"....if i find what fixes it before you do ill let ya know....it sucks not being able to use your cars full potential
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
In that file the throttle cracker enable/disable MPH
displays 200/199, so no cracker action for you. May
want to get it back in play and make more of a
linear taper to it, not the big "ridge" to stumble over.
displays 200/199, so no cracker action for you. May
want to get it back in play and make more of a
linear taper to it, not the big "ridge" to stumble over.
Originally Posted by Doc
When you say you have !AIR and then you go on to say something about the dip "when the air kicks on." Do you mean that the air pump is still installed and it is turning on and you can hear it? Or do you mean the airconditioner? Either way both of those systems put some load-moreso the AC.
The AIR! System is removed I believe, but at start up you can hear something running and it turns off at 100 degrees during warmup. When it turns off the car dips, my tuner said it was the AIR system shutting down.
..... edit yeah I agree man if I did not have it on my computer I would not remember what the tables look like.
man after being spoiled with hptuners 2.x I don't think I could do edit anymore.
Originally Posted by mr2guru
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Originally Posted by hurley711
The AIR! System is removed I believe, but at start up you can hear something running and it turns off at 100 degrees during warmup. When it turns off the car dips, my tuner said it was the AIR system shutting down.
So the pump is still in the car and all though it isn't connected (mechanically) it isn't disabled (electronically). Therefore, it is causing a draw on the electrical (alternator) which is adding drag to the engine.
I set mine to only come on when my ect exceeds 284 (never I hope).
I am curious about this problem also as I am running SD and I have this problem as well.
I fixed mine. I had my idle screw turned in to allow enough air to idle. Here is what I did.
I drilled out the hole in the TB to one step larger bit and backed the idle screw all the way out. I checked my IAC and it was at like 130 step at idle. I drilled a second small hole (same size as stock) in the TB below the other hole. Checked the IAC and it was 60 step at idle. I opened it up more (same size as the other whole) and got it to 15-25 step at idle. Now when the IAC drops (which is why your idle is falling off), the IAC bottoms at 0 but the car only dips to like 900 rpm and never stalls. I think that this problem is related to the lean condition that some people are talking about at warm start while running in SD. This is a patch but it works great for me.
PLease look at what I am running in my sig. You will likely not need to make the second whole as my 402 probably needs more air.
Now, if I could just get rid of the bucking between 1600-1900RPM, I would be all set. I got my VE tables between 0 and -3 and it wont go away. This may need some of that throttle cracker action that some speak of. I just don't know how to work that yet with my HPTuner. One step at a time I guess.
I drilled out the hole in the TB to one step larger bit and backed the idle screw all the way out. I checked my IAC and it was at like 130 step at idle. I drilled a second small hole (same size as stock) in the TB below the other hole. Checked the IAC and it was 60 step at idle. I opened it up more (same size as the other whole) and got it to 15-25 step at idle. Now when the IAC drops (which is why your idle is falling off), the IAC bottoms at 0 but the car only dips to like 900 rpm and never stalls. I think that this problem is related to the lean condition that some people are talking about at warm start while running in SD. This is a patch but it works great for me.
PLease look at what I am running in my sig. You will likely not need to make the second whole as my 402 probably needs more air.
Now, if I could just get rid of the bucking between 1600-1900RPM, I would be all set. I got my VE tables between 0 and -3 and it wont go away. This may need some of that throttle cracker action that some speak of. I just don't know how to work that yet with my HPTuner. One step at a time I guess.
Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
So the pump is still in the car and all though it isn't connected (mechanically) it isn't disabled (electronically). Therefore, it is causing a draw on the electrical (alternator) which is adding drag to the engine.
I set mine to only come on when my ect exceeds 284 (never I hope).
I am curious about this problem also as I am running SD and I have this problem as well.
I set mine to only come on when my ect exceeds 284 (never I hope).
I am curious about this problem also as I am running SD and I have this problem as well.
WOW! Today car surged all the way to 5000 RPMs, then back down to 500 or so, then back up to 4000 and then back down to practically stalling, I mean like 100-200 RPMs. This was ALL within 30 secs of startup. Then it gets worse, I try to drive it home and my brakes won't work, the intake had a crack in the back on one of the nipples that come out of the back of it, is one side the brake booster line? This is so fucked up, the surging was ridiculus, anytime I hit the gas it surged a few thousand RPMS, then I almost get killed in an intersection because the brakes fail. WTF is going on here?? Car is being towed and manifold is coming off, LS1 going back on.
Originally Posted by ninobrn99
bringing it back from the dead. mine is doing the exact same thing. i guess the ls6 intake is the first thing im gonna check.
After swapping out the intake, all of the major idle jumps went away. But the car still has major dipping issues. Everytime I decelerate now, and get below 10 mph or so the car dips to 600 or so RPMs. Also ALOT of times when I take it out of gear when coming to a redlight or stop sign, as soon as I disengage the clutch the idle will dip and come back up. 90% of the time though when I slow down it happens. Could it be the throttle body was ported to much? Or the screw not set properly?
no, i wouldnt think so because mine has been fine for the longest time. i havent ported it anymore or less. its the same way it was when i got it. mine started happening after i dyno'd it. nothing changed on it so thats what raising questions.
