Air/Fuel???
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs, FL
Air/Fuel??? I just received my new Maf Translator from Tbyrne. The reason for the purchase is because I hand ported and polished my maf ends.
My question is what should be the optimum air/fuel ratio? I have also installed the HPP3 for my 98 z28 if this matters (100% firmness).
Also, I think you can adjust the timing as well--Please include the optimum spark advance for this operation (I've done every bolt on except intake manifold and shift kit).
Please help I have to drive to work tomorrow.
Thank You,
Brandon Wheeler
My question is what should be the optimum air/fuel ratio? I have also installed the HPP3 for my 98 z28 if this matters (100% firmness).
Also, I think you can adjust the timing as well--Please include the optimum spark advance for this operation (I've done every bolt on except intake manifold and shift kit).
Please help I have to drive to work tomorrow.
Thank You,
Brandon Wheeler
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Newport, Michigan
Re: Air/Fuel??? Actually, you should have a scanner type tool (like AutoTap) which will log your drivetrain parameters as you drive around. Each car is slightly different, so its hard to tell you what you should dial on your MAFT without the benefit of actual data from your car.
Having said that, some people (including myself) had to go to +15% on the base switch. I cant remember what I used for the WOT switch. But, what you can do is to go leaner one nocth at a time and when knock sets in go back 2 or 4% richer on the WOT switch.
Be very careful on this whole thing. Alot of knock can damage your engine. Work with the base setting first, then work with the WOT switch. Also, after each change to the base switch, you will need about 15 minutes of driving (maybe more) for the PCM to relearn the part throotle stuff.
But, bottom line is: you should have a scanner tool.
Having said that, some people (including myself) had to go to +15% on the base switch. I cant remember what I used for the WOT switch. But, what you can do is to go leaner one nocth at a time and when knock sets in go back 2 or 4% richer on the WOT switch.
Be very careful on this whole thing. Alot of knock can damage your engine. Work with the base setting first, then work with the WOT switch. Also, after each change to the base switch, you will need about 15 minutes of driving (maybe more) for the PCM to relearn the part throotle stuff.
But, bottom line is: you should have a scanner tool.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 636
Likes: 0
From: HTownRacing.com, TX
Re: Air/Fuel??? optimum A/F should be 12.8:1 however in setting the line pressure you first need a scanner, going at it blindly will do more harm then good. once you have it figured a relearn should occur within the first 6 miles and it helps to watch the line pressure vs engine speed around shifts to see what is really happening with your line pressure.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 636
Likes: 0
From: HTownRacing.com, TX
Re: Air/Fuel??? dont bother getting a ported maf for an a4 as this leads to more headache then help. you done need to know why <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" /> , its just not worth the money, put it towards a converter, now there's something you'll feel <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> .
if you really want to know why to avoid ported mafs for an a4 then do a search and read on.
if you really want to know why to avoid ported mafs for an a4 then do a search and read on.
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Warren, mi
Re: Air/Fuel??? to fix the A4 problem you need to richen the base setting to adjust for the lack of air the sensor reads while ported. to do it correctly you need to have a scan tool to read the MAF readings
