getting car in open loop??
#4
TECH Addict
iTrader: (24)
I'm not sure about the 1, but just to be totally sure, I would unplug the MAF. Also, if you have a Vette, you will have ot make provision to get your readings from the IAT sensor because thats coupled with the MAF. If you don't have a vette, don't worry about it. =)
You also have to set a couple other parameters for OL. These include setting the "DFCO Temp Enable" to 255, Disable the Long Term Fuel Trim Correction, set all Closed Loop Temp Enable values to 255, Copy your "Spark High-Octane Table" into your "Spark Low-Octane Table" (because your PCM will default to this table for spark when in SD mode), then set all of your MAF Freq Fail's to 1, after that, turn all the following P0101, P0102, P0103 to No Mil, then finally unplug the MAF sensor. If you don't have Cats, then Disable the Catalytic Converter Protection as well. I got all of this from the AutoVE tutorial...which the link no longer works. If you want it, send me a pm with your e-mail and I'll send it your way!
Best of Luck,
Adrian
You also have to set a couple other parameters for OL. These include setting the "DFCO Temp Enable" to 255, Disable the Long Term Fuel Trim Correction, set all Closed Loop Temp Enable values to 255, Copy your "Spark High-Octane Table" into your "Spark Low-Octane Table" (because your PCM will default to this table for spark when in SD mode), then set all of your MAF Freq Fail's to 1, after that, turn all the following P0101, P0102, P0103 to No Mil, then finally unplug the MAF sensor. If you don't have Cats, then Disable the Catalytic Converter Protection as well. I got all of this from the AutoVE tutorial...which the link no longer works. If you want it, send me a pm with your e-mail and I'll send it your way!
Best of Luck,
Adrian
#5
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
the only thing that must be done to go into open loop is to set the enable temps in reality...all of the other stuff really just has to do with SD mode and nothing more. Why not post a copy of your file here or on hpt's site where they will host it free...that would be your best bet to see if theres something amiss.
#6
okay, I think I'm on my way for this sd tune, I'm not worried about the codes at this time, I'm going to try it like this and if I like it then I'll get rid of the pesky engine light, otherwise I'm just doing the part throttle cruizing to dial in the trims and then recalibrate the maf, my ltft's are at 0 now(wich should be OL?) and I'm tuning the stft's, I have a 99 so the temp sensor is seperate from the maf, I'm also boosted and going to try a few more "tricks" w/this pcm to see if I can get some more bite and better throttle response....
thanks for the help, I'll check back later on to let you know how it went..
thanks for the help, I'll check back later on to let you know how it went..
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#8
I can feel its got a little crisper throttle response and feels strong, I know when I hook the maf back up its going to go away, what I was going to try and do if it will work, w/out the maf hooked up, still use the pe table for wot and just figure out where the numbers need to be, like it is now tuned for maf but w/out maf it just dumps waaaay too much fuel, if I go a little at a time because its rpm based I'm thinking it will work.... but, if not then the maf 'll be back on....
#9
update... ok, that was a waist of time, life is soo much easier just getting the ve table to where you think it needs to be then re-scaling the maf table, I should have just done that a few days ago, I went just a little higher w/the numbers in the tq range and after rescaling the maf it does feel like its got more bite, I need to do some more playing w/the pe table and rpm activation range but my laptop batt. is dead after this last tune I threw on..... good thing it waited till I was done , but it was that 1 out of 5 times that I loose my gauges so I had to drive home and plug it in to get the tune reloaded and my gauges back...