joecar

You have to email Caspers and show them this this pic (see attached) and tell them you need the connector, the pins and the seals; get spare pins and seals (in case you damage any; they're cheap).

As for the other connectors, they should be available individually, but for my purposes I found it cheaper to buy the kit and the cheaper crimp tool (blue handles, about $20 or so); crimp tool is advisable.
The kit does not include the plug shown in the attached pic.

AutoZone doesn't seem to have those, and the GM dealer doesn't know what you want.

I've got my LC-1 on the passenger side since I'm going thru firewall just beneath PCM; either side should work just fine, but first plan out where you will poke the wires thru the firewall (or A4 shift cable grommet, etc).

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

For those that are making their LC-1 portable...where did you put the big black box? This is what I'm thinking of doing. I made a little bracket that I'm gonna tie the LC-1 to and mount the bracket to a heat shield. Think it'll be okay there?

Here's the general idea for the portable LC-1. Is this correct? The middle wiring will stay permantely in the car, and the other two sections are removeable.



Here's the bracket I made that'll bolt to the heat shield.



You can see the hole I drilled for the mounting bracket in the heat shield. This is the passanger side by the way.



Here's the general layout so far. The wires coming from the LC-1 in this pic will go up through the shift boot. The wires from the 02 will go to the LC-1.



Everything look good so far?

P.S. Don't be hating on my awesome drawing skillz.

muncie21

iTrader: (14)

Hey, why is there a ***** in the middle of your drawing?

Regarding making the unit portable here's a couple thoughts/suggestions based upon my experience.

1) Use an old O2 plug to provide power and a NB sim reading. If you move the LC-1 to another car, just bring your O2 harness plug with you and plug it in. Bam, you've got power and NB signal to the car.

2) Use quick disconnects for the WB signal and the calibration wires. These wires should be permanently mounted in your car. When moving to another car, you'll need to bring a pre-fab'd harness that can come in through the window.

My LC-1 is totally portable now. Not cause I tune alot of other cars with it, but rather because it has been removed so many times for repair.

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

1) Yeah..I'll be using an old 02 connection. It's the one that you can see in the last picture with the 4 wires coming from it. Just gotta make the connections.

2) Everything in my mockup that has a black circle is a quick disconnect.

Where did you mount your LC-1 physically? Think mine will be okay where it is?

Thanks!

muncie21

iTrader: (14)

My LC-1 is/was next to the firewall on the passenger side. I ran the wires into the car through an existing wire gromet on the firewall in the glovebox area.

Your location looks fine as long as it doesn't get to toasty and provided it's relatively accessable.

joecar

Yep looks good, bracket is nice.

My LC-1 module is zip tied to the bottom of the starter (on one of the long bolts that holds the starter together.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Anyone have to put a switch for the ground on there's using the HP tuners cable?

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

My understanding is that you don't need to wire in the switch, it's more of a convenience. I'm not sure how the HP Tuners FlashScan equivalent is wired, but this is how I'm gonna wire up mine with EFI Live.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Got ya I just put the switch the other day. Works like a champ. The only thing I noticed with the LC1 is I have to pause a little before a restart on the car.

joecar

That's normal, LC-1 takes about 20-30 seconds for it to sort itself out.