98redorangeta

iTrader: (10)

I am getting ready to hook up a lc1 wideband to my car but i want to use it in a few other cars as well so i am going to be making temprary connections to hook it up. Has any one done this where did you hook things up i have some ideas but if any one has some proven methods i would like to save my self some trouble.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Mine is rather portable. I just chopped off the end of an old stock O2 sensor and hooked up the heater ground, heater power, analog 1 and system/analog ground wires to the connector. The rest of the connections are made to the device you are using to read the output of the sensor. Whether it's a laptop or a guage, they're both rather portable. I found the easiest thing to do is to wire it with enough length to route the wires out the window, under the hood, along the firewall (behind the heat shield) to the stock O2 bung location. Takes less than 10 minutes to hook it up to my car or my friend's car. Check out https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/478094-help-lc1-wide-band-narrow-corvette.html for more info on this setup or use the search function in the PCM forum.

98redorangeta

iTrader: (10)

I had seen that post before but i couldent find it useing search i guess i just suck at searching

horist

soundengineer's made a really ingenious standalone box (he made those schematics above, however it's better to use the updated ones that are in the HP Tuners help file and the stickies above)

He posted up a while back on the HP Tuners forum w/his box... was really nicely done

edit: just looked at the schematic in the link... the main difference between soundengineer's original (which the above schematic was mde off of ) and the new one, is the EIO on HPT is no longer used as the ground... they share a common ground reference, but the LC1 does not and should not ground to the EIO

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

i posted one several months ago with interface box

ace68

iTrader: (15)

I use one for other cars only, I run the wires up the front of the engine compartment tie into the fuse box in the engine compartment run a wire for the led and flashscan connection along the fender and inside the door jab and connect the wires to flashscan done it's as portable as I think you can get.

joecar

Portable LC-1...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=17

4-way connector:
A = NBO2 Signal Low = LC-1 green
B = NBO2 Signal High = LC-1 yellow
C = Heater Ground = LC-1 blue
D = Heater Power = LC-1 red

3-way connector:
A = Wideband signal = LC-1 brown
B = System Ground = LC-1 white
C = Calibration = LC-1 black

6-way connector:
This has both sets of 3 wires from the LC-1 Serial IN and Serial OUT cables;
the other end that this mates to has the Serial IN and Serial OUT sockets.

Note:
System ground (white) is being used as the analog ground for the wideband signal,
and as the ground for the calibration pushbutton/LED.

If using the LC-1 to simulate the NBO2 sensor, my opinion is that analog ground (green) and system ground (white) should be isolated from any other grounds (i.e. connected directly as above, and not to a common ground).

joecar

I made a subharness that the 3-way and 6-way connectors plug into;

this subharness can be draped over the driver or passenger window and taped to the door, or it could be routed thru the firewall/floor.

BigE

iTrader: (2)

Forgive my ignorance, but how is this possible? Are you swapping in a new O2 sensor for every car you want to use it on?

horist

when you want to use it on a car... you pull the stock O2 , put the Wideband in, tune, then put the stock O2 back in

muncie21

iTrader: (14)

Why not just the the LM-1 if you want porability?

horist

it's all a matter of how far you're willing to go... you can make a LC1 portable for alot less than the 150 bux an LM1 goes for

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

Where did you get the plugs to make this?

bshell

iTrader: (24)

http://www.casperselectronics.com/

They are a sponsor here ---->

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

Thanks, looks like Im never going to have money,lol. They have some good stuff there.

Runn

Can you buy these "portable wb´s" somewhere?

TurboGibbs

iTrader: (6)

I just bought a $7 cigarette lighter plug at Radio Shack and wired the power and grounds through it. I have the cal button and light mounted in the side of the factory cardboard box and a slot cut in it to run the wires out. I then just close the wires in the door jam. When not using it I coil all the wires in the box and put it on the shelf.

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

Where does the 3 wire connector, the 4 wire connector, and the 6 wire connector go to?

4 way connector = stock NB02 wiring connection?
3 way connector = ?
6 way connector = ?

Where do you connect the switch and light? Where are you getting the 12v power from?

The directions said to have the red wire should be fused with a minimum fuse of 5A? I need attach a fuse to the red wire?!?

Why are we capping off the Serial IN connection?

Thanks!

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

Btw...can you buy those connectors individually? This is all I can find:
https://www.casperselectronics.com/M...ry_Code=camaro

AutoZone or maybe even the dealership have these?

Also, which side is best to put the WBO2 into?

joecar

4-wire plug goes to NBO2 socket on vehicle.

3-way plug goes into 3-way socket on one end of 3-wire cable (you have to fab this up);
other end of this goes to your logging device (brown and white) and to the LED/pushbutton (black and white);
this allows you to quickly remove your LC-1 without removing the 3-wire cable from the vehicle (you may have routed it thru the firewall and other hard-to-access places).

6-way plug goes into 6-way socket on end of 6-wire cable (you have to fab this up);
other end of this goes to the serial IN and OUT jacks so you can connect you PC/laptop to your LC-1 and to daisy chain two LC-1's together;
again, allows quick disconnect;

The SERIAL IN requres the terminator plug (that comes with the LC-1) otherwise the PC/laptop serial comms will not work right.

The LED and pushbutton switch are wired together in parallel, and then the anode side goes to the black wire (this is not a ground), and the cathode side goes to the white wire; if you wired this in reverse, the LED will not light at all when you power up the LC-1 (no harm done), just reverse the connection.

When you power the LC-1 from the NBO2 socket on the vehicle, you already have fuse protection, so you don't need an extra fuse.

Note:
with a voltmeter, check that you get better than 12V at the vehicle NBO2 socket (across pins C and D) (** be careful to not short your voltmeter probes together when measuring, tape the probe ends so only the very tips are exposed**), otherwise your LC-1 will not be able to operate properly; if you don't see better than 12V, you have to find the problem (e.g. a corroded connection or bad ground somewhere between the NBO2 socket and the fuse or battery).

Warning:
When the LC-1 is powered up, do NOT let the brown or yellow wires from the LC-1 to short to any other wire;
the yellow wire should be going to NBO2 socket pin B, and the brown wire goes to your logging device's analog signal input.

The white wire goes to two places:
a. your logging device's analog signal "ground" input (right next to the analog signal input);
b. the cathode side of the LED/pushbutton.