AFRs bouncing at WOT...why??
[IMG]
[/IMG] I'd confirm your VE table(s) and/or MAF table are correctly calibrated. Also, only 10* of advance at WOT? I can't read the RPM, but that seems pretty low.
I'd confirm your VE table(s) and/or MAF table are correctly calibrated. Also, only 10* of advance at WOT? I can't read the RPM, but that seems pretty low.
To answer a few of your comments.
Commanded AFR is 11.01 and actuall is between 11.2x and 12.2x.
I haven't figured out why bank 2 (where the WB is) is running leaner than bank 1. No intake leaks, guess I just chalked it up to disproportional fueling due to rail design.
10* of advance @ 3900 RPM is due to my ride by SC'd. Typically she runs 15* or so, but not more than that.
Regarding the MAF/VE calibration, I can't see the various cells being off so much as to change my AFR by a complete point....but hey, I don't know everything, that's why I'm asking for help
Detonation , misfire , poor fuel mapping , exhaust leak will give the same result. Is the wideband in bank 2 as well ?
Detonation , misfire , poor fuel mapping , exhaust leak will give the same result. Is the wideband in bank 2 as well ?
I think it's likely a mechanical cause though.
It's bouncing towards the lean side. The two most likely causes IMO would be due to a misfire, or surging in the fuel rail.
It is barely possible that it would be a valvetrain control issue, but the first thing I'd test would be the spark plugs. I'd try a new set of colder plugs with about .030" gap and see if it has any effect on the AFR bounce.
The timing is low. Could I assume this is directly due to knock being present and an attempt to avoid it? 11:1 is also very rich to be running with such little advance. Rich AFR's slow the burn. Dropping advance has a similar effect. When you do both to the extreme, you end up with a lot of late burning that can heat up the exhaust valve. A hot valve and extra fuel can cause detonation and/or preignition. It's not as big an issue on bottle cars as it is with boost due to the big difference in intake charge temperatures.
Not to say that people with boost don't run 11:1 AFR with 10* often enough, but there is an issue of heat. Do you see the same exact AFR bounce with a cold engine?
To test the fuel-rail possibility I'd probably up the voltage to the pump to about 16 volts and lower the pressure back to what it was at 14v. Then see if the bouncing is reduced.
If you happen to be running an FMU with your SC, then that complicates matters as the big increase in fuel pressure will reduce the volume capacity of the pump... but you probably already know that.
Trending Topics
Usually I run about 15* of timing at WOT. I don't understand why I'm in the 10's and 9's now. I'm logging KR, but it doesn't show on the graph, so something else is pulling the timing.
Regarding fuel pressure, I run a KB BAP with the factory fuel pump. The factory fuel setup isn't boost referenced so I should have about 58PSI on the rail all the time. I'll re-check the pressure tonight.
What I'm really trying to understand is what physical things could possibly cause your AFR to bounce. So far I've heard:
- Misfire
- Air Leak
- Changing fuel pressure
Anything else??
BTW the plugs (NGK TR6) and wires have less than 10K miles on them.
Last edited by muncie21; May 25, 2006 at 03:27 PM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
It looks like the WOT AFR spikes are boost related. I changed the requirements to go into PE mode so that I would hit PE well before boost kicks in.
Going into PE under light load and no boost (2nd gear, 35MPH, 2500+ RPM) resulted in a pretty smooth AFR.
Hitting PE under heavy load and full boost (4th gear, 40MPH, 1500 RPM, WOT) resulted in the AFR spikes.
Because of the low engine RPM, I'm pretty sure I'm not fuel deficient. Any ideas of what would happen under boost (4PSI) and high compression (10.5:1) that could cause the AFRs to be unstable?
Here's a screen shot of my log (click to enlarge)
Last edited by muncie21; May 26, 2006 at 11:44 AM.
J

Here's what I ended up doing:
- Pulled all plugs to do compression test
- Pulled coil packs and valve covers to check for loose rockers
- Installed new NGK TR6 plugs
- Ohm'd all plug wires
- Installed plug wires
It was I who cut you off
I almost missed my stop because I was too busy watching your vette
Sorry 'bout that
Did your old plugs look fouled or discolored?
J

The plugs looked fine to me, I'm still puzzled by all of this. I'm pretty sure the problem is fixed, but you never know.





