93formto98T/A

iTrader: (28)

cruising down the highway the other day and all of a sudden half the engine cuts out. Got home and checked up on things and found a blown fuse for passenger side of motor. Put a 10amp fuse instead of 7.5 and took her for a cruise down the highway tonight and 5min later it cuts out again. I limp home and check the fuses. It's the same fuse. Any help will be appreciated. I can usually trouble shoot things but this one is throwing me off. Planning on going to autozone and having the codes read tomorrow. Thanks in advance.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Basic electricity says path of least resistance. In your case it's probably a pinched or chaffed wire touching ground (metal chassis). A wire in this circuit has found a shorter path to ground which has allowed it to bypass the load which in your case is engine releated (you weren't very speciific about which fuse it is were you?). Fuses don't like it when their loads get bypassed and they blow. It's their job to do that. If you want to really find out where the problem is instead of putting a 10 amp fuse in a 7.5 amp circuit just put a 50 or 100 amp fuse in there and you'll find your short real quick. It will be the wire with the melting insulation. The smell of burning insulation and the smoke will lead you right to your problem. Seriously, putting a bigger fuse in there is a BAD idea. That's NOT troubleshooting. There another name for that kind of shortcut and I've got an idea you know what it is. Get your schematic and meter out. Put the car on jackstands and start looking for a wire that is pinched or has had the insulation rubbed off and is touching metal. There are no shortcuts here or you can just pay someone else $65/hr to find it for you.

93formto98T/A

iTrader: (28)

Thanks for the input. It's the injector bank 2 fuse. I got a scan at autozone but it's only reading other things like low volt MAF/ bank 1 lean/bank 2 lean.
BTW I'm not trying to fix the problem with a high amp fuse...just trying to get the car running long enough to look for a short before bank 2 cuts out.

FaSS Blac

Been there, done that. I had a pinched coil power wire between the coil bracket and the valve cover, except on the left bank. Inj Bank 1 Fuse kept blowing and killing left side of engine. I was pulling my hair out for three days, when I decided to take the coil bracket off and strip all the wrapping off the Inj/Coil harness. I was sweating bullets because I was down to the last wrap, when I saw an indentation and dark spot on the wrap. Unwrapped wire and found the pink power wire with a nice, dark chaffe mark on it. Butt spliced, rewrapped, all systems go!!!! It's always something simple. Cutting all the wire wrap off wasn't fun but the end result fixed the problem.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Usually one telltale sign of a short can be found when you strip back the insulation at the suspected area. The copper wire will be soot cover where is was touching metal as a result of the wire becoming the LOAD in the circuit rather than the device it is supposed to bring power to resulting in the blown fuse. Another sign is when you pull the wire away from the metal surface it was touching and find the fuse no longer blows. You guys need to SOLDER the splices you make when repairing these broken or damaged wires. If you have a short of this type you have damaged insulation at the least and probably some of the wire strands are cooked as well. A couple of the wire strands must still be there because if they were all burnt away the short wouldn't have a path back to the fuse to blow it. That would be even harder to find than a short. Don't use butt crimp connectors. The mechanical and electrical bond of a crimp is questionable especially around heat and vibration and if you drive in wet conditions that makes it even worse. Don't forget to use heat shrink tubing over your solder joints to complete the job. Some wire ties will insure you don't have this problem again in the future. Wire ties are cheap while your time to make this repair is not.