Weird IAC Position
Weird IAC Position Ok heres the deal. When I first start my car the IAC steps wil range from 120-130. The more the car warms the lower they go. Once the car reaches full temp and the idle is caught at 970-1000rpm the IAC position will drop to "0" and flicker every once in a while up to 10-14. But for the most part will sit on "0". They only time they will move is when you rev it. What are some things to look for in the tune or the car?
Also my IAC was dialed in perfect along with the RAF. But I suspect there is an a vacuum leak somewhere due to the low RAF the engine is requesting. The only thing that has changed is that I drilled the hole in my TB 2 sizes bigger then a stock hole. Its less than 1/4in hole. Would drilling my TB out to help with the idle cause my IAC to go all stupid now?
Its not that its not working, it works fine till the car catches a steady idle. Then it 0's out. I can cut the car off after warmup then restart and they do the same thing except for this time they start in the lower 80's then slowly drop down till it hits 0. What do I need to look for?
Thanks!
Also my IAC was dialed in perfect along with the RAF. But I suspect there is an a vacuum leak somewhere due to the low RAF the engine is requesting. The only thing that has changed is that I drilled the hole in my TB 2 sizes bigger then a stock hole. Its less than 1/4in hole. Would drilling my TB out to help with the idle cause my IAC to go all stupid now?
Its not that its not working, it works fine till the car catches a steady idle. Then it 0's out. I can cut the car off after warmup then restart and they do the same thing except for this time they start in the lower 80's then slowly drop down till it hits 0. What do I need to look for?
Thanks!
IAC=0 means it has more air than it needs, to hold RPM.
The TB hole is definitely a component of this. Could be
other things adding to it like a vac leak. If you raise the
target RPM the IAC position ought to follow and at some
point stay off zero even hot. Since it will idle at 0 IAC
you should be able to unplug the connector and go leak
hunting by idle-drop.
The TB hole is definitely a component of this. Could be
other things adding to it like a vac leak. If you raise the
target RPM the IAC position ought to follow and at some
point stay off zero even hot. Since it will idle at 0 IAC
you should be able to unplug the connector and go leak
hunting by idle-drop.
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
IAC=0 means it has more air than it needs, to hold RPM.
The TB hole is definitely a component of this. Could be
other things adding to it like a vac leak. If you raise the
target RPM the IAC position ought to follow and at some
point stay off zero even hot. Since it will idle at 0 IAC
you should be able to unplug the connector and go leak
hunting by idle-drop.
The TB hole is definitely a component of this. Could be
other things adding to it like a vac leak. If you raise the
target RPM the IAC position ought to follow and at some
point stay off zero even hot. Since it will idle at 0 IAC
you should be able to unplug the connector and go leak
hunting by idle-drop.
