402ci 242/250 112 60# Motrons Drivability Issues
08-31-2006, 04:39 PM
#27
I got it all together right before all the rain started down here in South Florida. Today was the first dry afternoon so I took it out for a long logging session. I put in the values that you supplied me prior to going on my ride. My bucking is almost all gone in the 1600+ RPM ranges. I'm not sure if it was the pump or the offset table or a combination of the 2 but it is much much much better. I did notice while logging, that my VE has gone negative 3 to 6 points (rich) just about everywhere. Again, not sure if that is because of the offset table, the new pump getting the proper pressure and volume to the 60# injectors, or the fact that it is running richer. I will eliminate the later once I dial in the VE table again and will post to see if it makes it better or worse once I get it closer to 14.6:1 AFR (currently at 13:1 AFR in the cells that I mentioned above). I hope to be able to do this tomorrow. I wasn't able to apply my changes today as I got caught by some heavy rain and ended up facing oncoming traffic and almost died thanks to my MT Drag Radials.
09-01-2006, 05:18 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by SLED28
SCannons: Any luck?
09-03-2006, 05:09 PM
#32
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I put in the Z06 Timing table parts that he told me to and set the IAC Steps to 149 inteads of 310. It runs a little better, instead of trying to die out at lower RPM's it stays running. Unfortunately it surges and lunges the car unless I give it gas to get going. The idle hold still at 1000 but sometimes bounces from 1000 to 1500 when I come to a stop. At least were working in the correct direction.
09-03-2006, 05:32 PM
#33
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I am thinking it'll be $300 to get you a tune on a dyno up here. 100 for the dyno, 100 for the new HPT credits, and $100 for Arun.
You guys keep working on it, and let me know! Glad to hear your getting it sorted out a little bit!
You guys keep working on it, and let me know! Glad to hear your getting it sorted out a little bit!
09-03-2006, 05:39 PM
#34
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How long of a drive is it for me from Ohio? Im just researching on the net here what to try next on the tune to get the Drivebility better. I keep reading about the VE and MAF and a whole lot of stuff I cant find or understand. Someone will say to do something one way and sometone else tells them they are wrong and to do it differently. Man this sucks...
09-03-2006, 11:23 PM
#37
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Should I really have to spend more money? I believe the dyno shop should be taking care of these issues when they finish the tune on my car. I am just trying to get it a little better until they can get time for my car. Since I got it back I have barely driven it due to how poor it runs. Kinda sucks when you have to rev it to 2000 rpm at every light, im sure my $1600 clutch is loving that. Not to mention that once out of every 10 times I come to a stop it stalls out. I stopped driving it last week because I couldnt take it anymore. Im hoping this week they will be able to finish it and I will be able to drive it normally. I am planning on going to Norwalk this Sunday. Summit Racing has the track rented for the day and I am allowed to bring my car there.
09-04-2006, 09:01 AM
#38
Cannon, give me your e-mail address and I will send you my tune. My setup is similar enough to yours that it shoul work better than what you are currently using. I imagine that they dialed the WOT parts of your tune on the dyno. Try using my tune but use your PE table and the values in the 90+ cells from your current tune. My tune is OLSD but it should work better than what you got from the sounds of it.
09-12-2006, 07:00 PM
#40
I think that the richer condition is what improved the surging the most. Once I got my VE table to -1 to 0 my surging came back. I put it back to -4 to -6 in those areas and it is much better. This is with the timing at 43* also in the problem areas.