Oxygen Sensors *lazy at idle* 02s EGT long tube headers closed loop
08-31-2006, 01:26 PM
#22
Here is what I did, and I have not had the slow or insufficient O2 switching error since... from my previous thread.. BTW I have tried factory, Denso, and Bosche sensors now.... the Bosche do switch better (faster, sharper)...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/517918-no-more-p0153-p0133-slow-response-o2-codes.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/517918-no-more-p0153-p0133-slow-response-o2-codes.html
I no longer have the Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response error codes...
I am embarrassed to say I did not follow the "change one thing and see how it reacts" normal scientific process... I changed two things just on a lark to see what would happen. I have been running fine for a month now with no error codes. I use to get several each time I drove the car.
Here is what I changed...
I reduced the Closed Loop Proportional Base vs. Airflow Mode by 15%
and
I reduced the Minimum Injector Pulsewidth by 10%
I have noticed, when scanning, my switching pattern is more active, though the highs and lows are not as high or low as they were before these changes.
This is just an FYI for anyone chasing this problem….
I am embarrassed to say I did not follow the "change one thing and see how it reacts" normal scientific process... I changed two things just on a lark to see what would happen. I have been running fine for a month now with no error codes. I use to get several each time I drove the car.
Here is what I changed...
I reduced the Closed Loop Proportional Base vs. Airflow Mode by 15%
and
I reduced the Minimum Injector Pulsewidth by 10%
I have noticed, when scanning, my switching pattern is more active, though the highs and lows are not as high or low as they were before these changes.
This is just an FYI for anyone chasing this problem….
08-31-2006, 01:58 PM
#23
Awhile back somebody mentioned that the Bosch 13111's had approx. 65 watt heater, with stock sensors being closer to 30 watts.
I've had great success with my 13111's. I have used my car in 10* to 100* temps, even letting it idle the whole time I ate at sonic, and the o2's kept swinging(not fast but still swinging), LTFT's stayed around -1 to +0.8.
They pigtail on 13111's are 3 to 4 feet, you have to be crafty with cable routing.
I've had great success with my 13111's. I have used my car in 10* to 100* temps, even letting it idle the whole time I ate at sonic, and the o2's kept swinging(not fast but still swinging), LTFT's stayed around -1 to +0.8.
They pigtail on 13111's are 3 to 4 feet, you have to be crafty with cable routing.
08-31-2006, 02:46 PM
#24
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Theres an advanced technique you can do to put the car in open loop for only certain RPM ranges. You then use a wideband to tune the car manually to get it where you want, adjust the VE tables accordingly, and then turn off closed loop for the lower RPM's.
You do this by setting your power enrichment factor to 1.0 for those rpm ranges (800, 1200), and then turning on PE mode via TPS to 0% for the same ranges. Essentially, you put the car in PE mode (open loop) while at idle.
Ive also found adding more timing at idle helps out significantly as well.
im running a mildish cam (224/236/115) and the O2's switch just like stock. In my case, I didn't need to do the open loop idea, just needed more timing.
OH and I forgot something very important, make sure the base running airflow table is reasonably well done as well.
You do this by setting your power enrichment factor to 1.0 for those rpm ranges (800, 1200), and then turning on PE mode via TPS to 0% for the same ranges. Essentially, you put the car in PE mode (open loop) while at idle.
Ive also found adding more timing at idle helps out significantly as well.
im running a mildish cam (224/236/115) and the O2's switch just like stock. In my case, I didn't need to do the open loop idea, just needed more timing.
OH and I forgot something very important, make sure the base running airflow table is reasonably well done as well.
09-10-2007, 08:57 PM
#25
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I have an 01 LS1 in a 69 Camaro, the engine is stock except for the intake and exhaust. I have 1 7/8" SW long tube headers that I picked up used. The O2 bungs seem tall to me see pic. It has a 3" Magnaflow exhaust, you can look through the mufflers. I bought bosch 13111 sensors which were no help, I decreased the idle spark advance.
How much is acceptable? I also tried adjusting the min injector pulse width and closed throttle parameter like mentioned above. This thing burns my eyes its running so rich. I'm thinking the cone airfilter attached to the maf may be part of the problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and I'm cashed from trying to get this thing road worthy for a weekend event.
How much is acceptable? I also tried adjusting the min injector pulse width and closed throttle parameter like mentioned above. This thing burns my eyes its running so rich. I'm thinking the cone airfilter attached to the maf may be part of the problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and I'm cashed from trying to get this thing road worthy for a weekend event.
09-11-2007, 09:21 AM
#28
I put the Bosch 13111 sensors and did not help at all, When i start the engine when cold or first start up its fine, but after the engine worms up and then shut it off for a few min. and then restart the motor idles fine for a min. or two then goes lean (+19) on my PLX WB. the car will not take gas ,and will most of the time will stall. This is a pain in the ***. I can push the throttle down more than haft way and it will take fuel but will over rev. I guess because its going into OL. Can i set my computer to idle in OL. ? I have EFI Live tuner.
