Anyone know which sensor for sure is the bank two sensor. Also, would it mean that the sensor (this is what I am thinking) is going bad, or would it likely be something else? If so what then?

Anyone have any idea. All I have is a generic scanner to tell me what the code is, and can't moniter any real perameters. I just don't want to have to replace both sensors, or worse replace the wrong one and have to take the intake off twice.

 

I am on my way right now to order a rear knock sensor for my car. im not sure which one you need when i hooked up the scanner it said Knock Sensor (can't remember) RR which stands for rear. it was a pain to get to though have fun

 

They aren[t that hard to get to. Though it takes time to remove the intake, it isn't that dificult.

My problem is I need to figure out which sensor would be considered bank two!

Also, is there any way to test them, maybe to help me figure it out. The thing is, only one is bad, and I would like to keep the other for a spare and not juust replace both to fix the problem. Not to mention, I want to make sure it's the sensor to begin with and not some other dumbass problem somewhere else!

 

So does anyone KNOW which sensor it si that I am looking for?

 

bank2=passenger side

 

uum.... there is no passenger side, only front and rear. If anything id say the rear

 

Knock sensor codes are sensor 1 or sensor 2 - #1 is closest to the radiator, #2 closest to the firewall. If you just did an intake swap could be a pinched wiring harness too, they connect under the intake. I'd also check the sensor(s) connector on the passenger side behind the intake. If you have to pull the intake and one is obviously bad, from water intrusion, etc. I'd replace both. Sure it's a knock sensor? What was the code P0332?

 

yeah thats my bad. Brain wasnt working for aminute there

 

:

 

I believe that was the code. I have to wait for it to come back and check it.

I pulled the intake, and went to replace the knock sensors. The one near the radiator was rusted. The one in the back, I went to unplug it, and the wire seperated. I soldered it back together and cover it with shrink wrap. Replaced the sensor and put it all back together.

I got no code for a few, but then I got the same damn code again! I can feel the pcm pulling timing and slowing the car down throughout the rpm range.

When I get to 5500rpm it breaks up from there to 6000rpm's! Not sure if this is the same problem or not? Imput, ideas, suggestions?

 

Anyone?

Bump!

 

Well crap...only thing I can suggest is looking up the specific code/diagnostics at gearchatter.com

 

Bump!

Anyone!

Bueller, Bueller?

 

BUMP!

I capped my cutout so I coulod drive it and listen more closely for engine knock. But nothing at all! Can drivetrain vibrations cause a knock sensor to trip and take timing from the motor. But if so, why only the same sensor bank 2?

 

I believe if that is the code that you have a bad connection. I had mine come disconnected and got the same code. This code does not pull timing though.

Drivetrain, exhaust banging, and valvetrain noise can all lead to false knock...and pulled timing I believe and I am currently searching for a ghost like this in my car.

 

Low input means just that. The input to the sensor is low because of wire damage, sensor damage, or a PCM problem. You can check the input voltage @ each sensor to find out which is having trouble. Key on engine not running should send 5 volts to each sensor. First check the sensor. If one of them is well below 5 volts, cut some of the insulation back on the power feed wire of that sensor & check voltage there. If the wire itself is 5 volts, then the sensor is bad. If the wire is much less than 5 volts, then the wire is damaged somewhere between the PCM & the sensor or the PCM feed voltage has gone bad. To check the PCM feed voltage, remove the cover from the PCM & check the knock sensor feed voltage from the Pin location for your model year's PCM. If it's bad there, there's usually an unused 5v feed on the Pin connector that can be used. Find it & splice the feed into the wire going to the knock sensor.

My guess is that it's wire or sensor related & not the PCM. Only way to find out is to check the feed voltage as described. BTW P0332 is the rear sensor & P0327 is the front sensor.

 

Will do. I think it is a wiring issue as I replaced the sensors already. When I did, I found that the wireing between that sensor and the plug at the back of the block was damaged. I soldered it back together.

Can soldering it have changed the voltage or resitence the pcm is seing? Should I have crimped it maybe?

I am also thinking maybe there might be another break in the wiring somewhere.

I am going to try jumping the wiring and switching the sensors each wire goes to. If it throws the same code I know it's the wiring. If it goes away, and throws the other code for the front sensor, then I guess it would be the sensor being bad. I just don't want to have to keep taking my damn intake on adn off again.

And what ever it is that is going on, the car is definately loosing timing. I can feel it bogging it's self, and picking back up. That is why I capped my exhaust to listen to it. I figureed I must have a detoanation issue if it ionly does at certain rpm and goies away.

 

I tired checking it with a multi meter. Here is what I found

On the pcm side of the connection:
car off, key in ignition turned to on, multi meter set to 2v/dc
.002 both sides
car running /multi meter same
-.025
-.023

now I went and checked the resistance of the sensors too:
multi meter set to dc/2m/ohm
running @ idle
.020-.030 both snesors

everything the same, but reving to to various engine speeds, the resistance changed on one sensor only"
went to over .300
and the other didn't move at all!

this test was also done with the sensors disconected from the pcm. Suprised me that anything changed with any voltage into the sensors. Guess they don't need it to change resistance.

The one with the light blue wire stayed the same.

 

Recieved your PM.

To check voltage, the meter should be set on 20vdc. Disconnect the connector from the knock sensor & place the voltage meter positive lead on the connector & the voltage meter ground wire to chasis ground. W/key on & engine not running, you should read around 5vdc.

Knock sensor resistance should be 3.3K to 4.5K-ohms.

The light blue wire is the rear sensor & should connect @ the 98 PCM in port 68 (blue connector).
The dark blue wire is the front sensor & should connect @ the 98 PCM in port 69 (blue connector).

Sounds to me like the wire fom the rear sensor to the PCM is the problem according to your notes. I would try running a new wire from the knock sensor to the PCM. If the existing wire is copper, use copper, if its a metal or steel looking wire, I'd use the same gauge & type. You can cut wire 68 an inch or so away from the PCM & the same inch from the knock sensor @ the other end. Then, twist the new wire together @ each location & check to see if the voltage has returned. If so, either solder, cap, or crimp the twisted connections. You've already changed the rear sensor, so you should be good to go. If when you replace the wire, the problem remains, then the issiue is inside the PCM.

I just went through this w/the MAP sensor feed wire. Where the reference voltage wire was damaged or grounded somewhere between the MAP sensor & the PCM. It ended up frying the 5v feed in the PCM & I was able to use an alternate 5v reference from another pin location & a new wire to solve the problem. This can be done w/ the MAP sensor because the 5v reference pin location is seperate from the signal voltage pin location & the signal voltage circuit inside the PCM had not been damaged.

Now that I've looked @ the schematic, you won't be able to use an alternate 5v reference for the knock sensor because the reference & signal voltage are located in the same pin location. Therefore, using an alternate source will not work because the PCM also wants feedback to the same pin location (again, there's only one pin location for each knock sensor). So, if it turns out to be a PCM problem @ pin 68, I don't know what can be done to fix it. Am hoping that the new wire fixes the problem. Good-luck & let us know how it works out.

 

Going through this myself right now....

It seems that (logging shows) that because my car thinks both are bad, the PCM applies MAX retard at WOT regardless of what is happeneing. In my case, I have an 8.6:1 forged bottom running 8.5psi at the moment with 14 degrees of timing across the board and my AFR 1is 10.2:1 WITH meth.... so I *KNOW* there is no REAL knock, but like I said, it pulls full allowed KR at WOT.