SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

I've yet to have a properly tuned car throw a switching code with Bosch 13111's. FWIW, if you have a highly modded car and can't keep them switching, why bother, Wideband tune the car and run open loop full time.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I installed the second new set of 13111's. I ground down the driver's side (bank 1) bung about 0.250", but I left the passenger side (bank 2) as it was.

After putting around 20 miles on it, during a short cruise I viewed the sensor voltages. They are both switching quickly from ~100 mV all the way up to ~800 mV. No codes yet! Fingers crossed!

FWIW, so far it seems as though grinding the bung down has had no effect.

See5

iTrader: (53)

My experience with both BWs and Bosch sensors is if you get too lean or rich, particualrly at idle, they will slow down to the point where they throw codes. If "fed" properly they may cure themselves.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

so what kind of headers are you guys with the o2 switching codes using? I have pacesetters and havent thrown a code yet and its been a few years, and I even have home made O2 extentions (butt connectors).

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

Update: Since the new 13111's went in I got a few slow response codes on bank 2 sensor 1. And last night I got my first insufficient switching code for that sensor.

Today I plan to grind the bank 2 bung down, like I did to the other side. There might also be a small exhaust leak over there.

Frustrating stuff!

No problems on bank 1 so far, knock on WOOD!

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Feel free to stop by my house whenever and I'll check it out on my scanner on how quickly they switch.
Did you check to make sure 5v's was feeding them?Next would be the grounds.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the offer. I can see the voltage switching on my handheld but there is no graph. Last time I checked, it looking like they were switching better than the old ones.

I did not measure for 5 volts. I'll do that next time I'm under there. Is the 5 volts for the heaters?

I have checked all the grounds, they all seem ok.

FWIW, there was a small exhaust leak right after the bank2 sensor, I think I sealed it up.

I'll go for a ride tomorrow and hope for the best.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if certain brand headers are more prone to throw switching codes than others. I have tuned many cars with 13111's, I've not had one car complain about ses related to the sensors, some have had them for over a year, as have I.

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

i have been monitoring mine, and it seems that only after i got WOT did it throw a code. i monitor my car everyday just about and the AFR is just where i want and everything else is good. it used to do it from stop light to stop light.. now it seems as if it comes on (SES) soon after WOT and decel

98hc4mula

iTrader: (5)

I have that problem and cant seem to resolve it. I went and bought the new sensors and got the code immediately. I did not check for the 5v, or ground. How do I go about doing this?
does anyone in Arlington Tx have a scanner that can hook me up to see if they are switching good or not?
thanks in advance

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I guess I'll be back under the car tomorrow. P1153 again! I might still have a small exhaust leak over there, the damn pipe does not line up with the header.

I'll see if I'm getting 5 volts while I'm down there....

This SUCKS!

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

With Bosch 4 wire sensors the white wires are for the heater and I think one of these is the one that should be getting 5 volts.

98hc4mula

iTrader: (5)

ohh ok, so I just have to test it with a volt meter right?
what about grounding them at a better place. would that matter.?

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

ok well , has anyone wrapped their headers and noticed the code go away?>

Doc

iTrader: (9)

For the love of God weld that **** up and be done with it. I am telling you your sensors are merely screaming at you to stop the leak(s).

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to dick with the exhaust today, hoping to get that passenger side to line up better. I don't want to weld the sucker on but I'm thinking if I can't get it sealed up today, I will order ball flanges and have my buddy weld them on.

I'll also measure for 5 volts. I hope I don't harm the PCM!

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

It's 12V, not 5, and if you didn't have 12V going to the O2s, you'd hava a lot more trouble than those 2 codes.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I took some voltage readings from the car's pigtail. With the ignition on and the sensors disconnected from the car, I got the following:

11.5v on the black wire (heater).
0.0 volts on the pink-ish wire (other heater wire).
4.5v on the tan wire (low signal).
1.25v on the purple wire (high signal).

I don't know what to make of these values but they were essentaily the same for both banks.

FWIW. I'm sure there is no exhaust leak on either side.

92SilverSHO

iTrader: (3)

damn i hope to see this problem resolved! cause i wanna do headers/heads/cam/intake.

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

i just turned the freakin codes off. i know otherwise daily driving my 02's are switching fine. just every now and then they will pop that code up; so i'm just going to forget it.

i may wrap the headers or around that area and see about a difference, but when i had my stock injectors on the car and headers, it was fine for 7k miles.... installed injectors and WTF. would it take that long to pick up header change??