I had to repost this problem because I thought I had it fixed and its still not fixed.

I took the 6 speed out of my car and put a th350 in. The car has not idled worth a damn since.

Well I added a home made ram air setup and it really went to **** then. Now I dont know if the ram air made it worse or just happen to start getting worse around that time. Anyway here is the problem.

I log my car and my IAC is around 30 once it settles down. Once I give the car gas and let off my desired and my actual IAC goes to 0. When this happens the car will barely run. Sometimes I can restart the car and my IAC will open back up but most of time it doesnt.

I have already tested the IAC and it works fine.

My TPS stays at 2%. I can reset it and it will go to 0% but when I give it gas it will not rest at 0% again, back to 2%. My TPS voltage is .63 but I have adjusted it from .5 to .7 with no luck. I swapped in a new TPS and no luck.

My car will throw a TPS low voltage code sometimes. Also the last time I checked it had thrown a crankshaft position sensor code. This sensor I think could cause the car to idle like **** since it controls spark but Im thinking I could get this code because of the eratic signal its getting off the crank while the car is chugging trying to stay running. I hate to buy a 75 dollar part and that not be the problem.

Lastly my tach is about 500 rpm's off up top. I know this may point to the crank sensor but thing is when I had the 6 speed I shifted at 6800 on the tach all the time and with the auto I hit the rev limiter at 6500 on the tach now and rev limiter is at 7000.

I would love to hear reasons for the IAC falling to 0. The desired IAC goes to 0 also so the IAC motor is doing what its being told to do. I would also love to hear why the TPS stays at 2%. I have already verified that its returning to the stop on the TB.

Any help appreciated.

 

Maybe your tps connector wires have a short somewhere?

Why does your desired air go to zero? Which pcm table does this? (ie) If its RAF then fix that?

I had a guy I helped out he had issues with his tps, looks like it was the tps sensor, he is still working on it, but cracker would hold his rpm high with 16% tps, even though it was closed. Maybe the follower and cracker tables are coming into play due to the 2% tps issue.

I think you need to sort out the tps issue first, then worry about the rest of the stuff.

 

With that many different sensor problems, I would double check all of the ground wires before replacing parts. I just don't see the transmission screwing up your iac, tps, and crank sensor all at the same time.

 

I played with it today. I have never messed with the cracker tables. Only thing I have done is add some raf.

I found that if I reset the tps it goes to 0%. If I then scan the car the IAC is open around 30 steps. If I barely touch the gas so that my tps goes to 2% it will make the IAC go to 0.

I just got done tuning on another car this past week and noticed that when you give his car gas the IAC goes up.

What I did today was adjust the set screw on the tb to try and get my IAC counts up. That didnt help. The IAC flat out will drop to 0 if my tps is not at 0%. So what I did was adjust the screw so that I the blade open more and now the car idles nearly as good as stock but without any help from the IAC.

Im not getting a tps code or crank sensor code anymore

 

it does sound like something with your grounds. too many things messing up at once. if you've checked the iac motor already, then check the wire for a short as mentioned earlier, check all grounds. make sure you didnt pinch anything with the swap.