MY02REDWS6TA

iTrader: (2)

I installed a Aeroforce Interceptor OBD2 scan gauge last month and I have been monitoring different parameters lately. I noticed that my Bank 2 02 sensor voltages are staying at pretty much 420-450mV and not switching. Bank 1 02 voltages are switching like normal between 100-850mV.

Is this telling me that an 02 sensor is going bad or what?

Still runs great. NO codes yet. Stock motor right now.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

That sensor is bad.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I'm having the same problem. Maybe you'd like to read my story.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/583508-i-called-bosch-tech-re-slow-oxygen-sensors.html

MY02REDWS6TA

iTrader: (2)

I read your thread..........damn what a saga that is! I hope you finally figure it out. I will follow your thread to see how it turns out.

Only difference is that I still have the stock manifolds and cats, etc. I have not installed the longtubes yet.....now I am a little worried after reading your thread!!!!

Thanks

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I just posted some trouble shooting stuff in that thread.

Since your car is stock, I'd guess that you do have a bad o2 sensor. An easy way to trouble shoot your situation would be to swap the sensors from one side to the other. If the problem moves to the other bank, then you know you have a bad sensor.

Good luck.

MY02REDWS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice. I dont know how long I have had the switching issue since I just really started watching this over the last week. The car is not my daily driver and only gets driven a little during the week and on weekends. I am curious as to how long it will take before I get a DTC? Since the headers will be going on in the coming few weeks I will replace the front sensors anyway with the Bosch 13111's. (And then hope I dont encounter the problems you are having

Mark

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Dude thats crazy...I was just about to start a thread like this! I mean exactly like this! I have the aeroforce gauge also...and my B1 sensor goes from around 65-850...all over the place. Moves around pretty fast too. But B2 stays at 450 the entire time.

I was going to switch the two to see what happens..but since I have a new bosch (yeah i know) sensor laying around, I might just toss that in bank 2 side and see what happens. If it fixes it...then I only had to change one sensor instead of swapping them around...then changing them.

Keep us posted on what you figure out!!!! I wont get a chance to mess with mine until wednesday or so.

Justin

92SilverSHO

iTrader: (3)

see what they lock at in WOT, im curious.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

The passenger bank pretty stays at 450... I saw it go to 455 once... But at WOT I havent really looked down at the gauge. It doesnt move much though. It was raining today so I didnt get to look at the gauge at all. I wanted to check out the fuel trims. I remember when looking at them, one side was different than the other.
Im going to toss the new O2 sensor in tomorrow and see what happens.

Justin

MY02REDWS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Small world isnt it??? lol

Let me know what happens when you switch sensors out. I am travelling out of town on business and wont be home until thursday night so I cant do anything right now anyway. My LT's and catted Y should be waiting on my doorstep when I get home!! I already bought the highly recommended Bosch 13111's for the LT install.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Yeah Ill let you all know tomorrow... I dont have the 13111's...but I have a replacement Bosch for the f-body. If it fixes the problem...Im either going to install two new 13111s before my tune...or spend the extra and get the AC Delco ones.

Im leaning towards the 13111s because the ACs are too expensive, and Ive heard enough success stories from the Bosch users to be convinced.

Justin

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Ok...got an update for you all.

I installed the bosch O2 sensor into bank 2... Started it up...still sat at 450. Took it for a drive..parts of which were spirited. Still nothing. Pulled back up the driveway, was about to turn off the key when I looked down at the gauge. Both switching away. So I took it for another ride. No real noticeable difference in power. I think I need to get the car tuned mostly.

This morning when I got in her, they both started out at 450...and pretty much at the same time they started to switch. Slow at first...then faster and faster. Took only a minute or so before they were switching like normal. Once they start to switch, they mimic each other's behavior. Also the LTFT seemed to be closer to each other. Before they were way off from each other.

So I guess thats all that was. Now all I have to do is get two new ones from the Vette, and ditch the extensions.

Justin

92SilverSHO

iTrader: (3)

They should Lock at WOT, at around 890 or so optimally. If they aren't locking at WOT, big problem somewhere.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Ok...Ill make it a point to go WOT on the ride home today and try to get a look at them. Only problem is at WOT im either sideways or going WAY too fast for the roads around here. I might be on the highway later tonight so either way Ill give it a look.

Just curious...if they dont lock at WOT....what are some of the problems associated with this? My car seems to run great. No traction in 1st at anything above 1/2 throttle...but seems to lack it when banging up into second. I cant spin the tires into second. Its weird...

But anyway...Ill try to look at the O2 at WOT and Ill report back.

Justin

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Ok...when going WOT, they go up in the upper 800's, but they dont really lock at one number and stay there. They still fluctuate a bit...but stay in the 800's from what I can tell.

I cant think why they would actually lock at a certain number and stay there though.... They dont come back down to 100 or anything...but they dont exactly "max out" either.

I think Im going to get my throttle body, and try to go for a tune before crappy weather hits. Im sure someone with a good scan tool or HP Tuners will be able to tell better whats going on. As far as I can tell, everything sensor wise is working on the car. The MAF might still be messing with me..but thats going bye bye too before the tune.

MY02REDWS6TA: Let me know how you make out changing sensors when you get it done. Are you just going to plop the new sensor in? Or are you going to install all the other goodies you just got at the same time?

Justin

MY02REDWS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Justin,

I just got back into town this evening so I havent messed with mine yet. My Bosch 13111's were delivered today. LT's and catted-Y should be arriving Friday as well. If I have a chance this weekend I may throw one of the 13111's in there to see what happens or I may just say the hell with it and just get the headers on and change them then. You did change out the Pre-cat sensor correct? Let me know. Even though mine isnt switching I have noticed no diminished performance.

MARK

al

I did BOSH 13111`s two weeks ago. Set a code three days later for the MAP. Scaned it lastnight and set a switching code on the drivers side. ****. By the way I have long tubes.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Mark... Correct. It was a pre-cat sensor. I have an ORY with LTs... Im not sure if Im seeing diminished performance...or if thats just the way the car is right now. Like I said...I have to have it looked at by a tuner. Im sure they can tell me if something is actually wrong. The car feels great. Pulls pretty good. But, and this may sound dumb, but I always hear about people having traction problems through second gear. Maybe its my driving, but I can shift hard into 2nd and nail it and I get no spin. I just feel like there should be alittle more in it for its mods. Car was running 11.6 when it was an auto and with the older heads and cam package. In a heavier vert... So it should be doing some damage now.

Justin