Need some for tuning after A4 swap
Need some advise for tuning after A4 swap I'm going to be swapping my M6 to a Stalled (Yank 4400)/built A4 with a shift kit/cooler and need some basic knowledge so I know that the tuner is going to be setting me up correctly.
1) My car was dyno tuned for my Heads/cam/gear etc and will be keeping my tune but adding the parameters for the A4 from the doner pcm. My rev limiter is set at 6800, how much cushion should I give the pcm when setting shift points.
2) Also, I have a 4.30 gear that will be eventually swapped for a 3.73...is this going to be a problem?...Either now or when I swap to the 3.73?
3) I'm assuming the pcm controls lock-up also? When should lock-up occur?
Any insight is appreciated as I don't want to have major problems on the 300 mile drive back home.
1) My car was dyno tuned for my Heads/cam/gear etc and will be keeping my tune but adding the parameters for the A4 from the doner pcm. My rev limiter is set at 6800, how much cushion should I give the pcm when setting shift points.
2) Also, I have a 4.30 gear that will be eventually swapped for a 3.73...is this going to be a problem?...Either now or when I swap to the 3.73?
3) I'm assuming the pcm controls lock-up also? When should lock-up occur?
Any insight is appreciated as I don't want to have major problems on the 300 mile drive back home.
Last edited by CLOKWRK; Nov 14, 2006 at 09:59 AM. Reason: title mistake
1. depends on the tranny
2. when you swap gears you'll need to recalibrate all of the shift points & lock up points
3. yes it does, depends on the gears/tire size/preference/cam lol too many variables.
2. when you swap gears you'll need to recalibrate all of the shift points & lock up points
3. yes it does, depends on the gears/tire size/preference/cam lol too many variables.
1) I'd say 100rpm. If you can get it to consistently shift at 6700rpm, that should keep you off of the limiter. Keep in mind though, when conditions change you may bounce off of it occasionally (ie excessive tire spin). Given you have a '98, I personally wouldn't push it past 6500. Those rod bolts have been known to be troublesome.
2) Tables can be scaled easily with the right software. Start with a stock trans calibration and adjust for gears. The tuning software's calculator does the rest.
3) I usually like to customize the lock-up properties on a h/c car beyond just scaling for gears. I usually target a 1800 lock-up and 1600 unlock.
2) Tables can be scaled easily with the right software. Start with a stock trans calibration and adjust for gears. The tuning software's calculator does the rest.
3) I usually like to customize the lock-up properties on a h/c car beyond just scaling for gears. I usually target a 1800 lock-up and 1600 unlock.
I've got a '99 with ARP rod bolts. 
So you think 100 rpm is enough time for the trans to shift? So driving back home 300 miles on 4.30's shouldn't be a problem if tuned for them?
So you think 100 rpm is enough time for the trans to shift? So driving back home 300 miles on 4.30's shouldn't be a problem if tuned for them?
Originally Posted by CLOKWRK
I've got a '99 with ARP rod bolts. So you think 100 rpm is enough time for the trans to shift? So driving back home 300 miles on 4.30's shouldn't be a problem if tuned for them?
So you think 100 rpm is enough time for the trans to shift? So driving back home 300 miles on 4.30's shouldn't be a problem if tuned for them?
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
However, you seem to be missing something. The trans in from one car to the next is different...from gear to gear even. Just because you command a 6800 RPM shift doesn't mean that's where it will shift. You'll need to flash the PCM, make a few WOT passes and then adjust accordingly. If it were me, I'd start at 6600 for first and 6700 for the remaining gears. Then, slowly increase the RPM shift points by 50 RPMs until it shifts where I want it. Traction has a major effect on the 1>2 shift in my experience. Blow the tires off and you'll more than likely hit the limiter. Hook and shifting becomes pretty consistent.
