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Need help choosing a PLX Wideband

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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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Default Need help choosing a PLX Wideband

Getting ready to purchase HP Tuners Pro and would like to get a wideband to go along with it. I will be using the wideband on both my V6 (tuning for gas mileage) and V8 camaro (major cam change coming with SD tune) and my friend's LT1 camaro (missing ~100 Hp from something). Ultimately the wideband will end up back in my V8 in place of one of the narrowbands.

I am choosing between the PLX M-300 and the PLX SM-AFR with the DM-5 gauge. There is approximately a $40 price difference with the M-300 being the more expensive device at about $300. Anyone have experience with both of these modules? I did a search, but not much out there. They both seem very portable, but I believe neither has logging ability, is this right? This is not a big deal as HP Tuners Pro has its own logging ability sans laptop. Both units also have the wideband and narrowband output for easy hookup to the PCM.

Are there other units I should be looking at in this price range(less than $300)? I have already looked at the LC1 and the LM1. I like the complete plug and play setup of the PLX setups. Hook it up, select in HP Tuners and log. Both units are also cheaper than the LM 1. Also both are self calibrating which seems important to me.

Do these units use the standard Bosch WB sensor that the Innovate products use? Lastly do any of the sponsors carry these widebands? I would prefer to purchase from a sponsor of the board.
Thanks, Joe
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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I have a PLX M-300, and I love it. It fits perfectly on the steering column and its easy to read. No complaints at all, great WB for the money. It does not have stand alone logging capability like the LM1 but it works fine with HPT.

Kevin
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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Thanks for the feedback...Are you running it full time in place of one of the narrowband sensors? I have seen feedback in other forums, where guys are getting 40k plus miles out of them when running them continuously. 40,000 miles on my car is like 8 years of driving, so that is reasonable to me. Do you know if it takes the same bosch sensor as the LM1? Greenlightmotorsports has the LM1 sensor for $51, whereas I have seen the other sensor for the PLX M-300 for $90. Am I missing something here?

I do see that the LM1 is on ebay for about $300 shipped, wonder if greenlightmotorsports will match this price.

I guess I just do not understand what the exact differences are between the two PLX setups. Only thing I see is the M-300 is an integrated controller and gauge in one and the other setup has the controller box and gauge separately.
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 11:54 AM
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I am now considering the PLX R-300(~$425). This is a little out of my initial price range, but seems to do much much more than just control a wideband sensor. You could basically hook this up and make your own gauge display with it, replacing the stock gauge cluster. It can display up to 6 items on the screen. Everything from vehicle speed, air fuel ratios, and G load, to Engine coolant temperature and engine RPM. It also has a completely programmable LED that can be set up as a warning light or a shift light. This would basically allow me to replace the junk 98 gauge cluster that I have(inaccurate RPM's), install a shift light, and get an accurate assesment of what my air/fuel ratio is. This saves me from buying a shift light, tach, and WBO2 setup separately which would cost more than the PLX R-300. Not to mention I would have an accurate engine coolant temperature gauge.

Is there anyone using this setup on the street in a weekend toy? Just trying to get some feedback on it, hoping someone may be able to point out some possible drawbacks to running the setup. Suggest a better setup? This to me seems like a much better way to go over the PLX M-300 or the PLX SM-AFR. Cost a little more, but the features seem more than worth it.

Help me!!!
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 02:13 PM
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I have had a PLX M-250 for close on 2 years and love it! It is installed full time and logs into my EFILive FlashScan interface. Doesn't need calibration or anything either.

I really depends how much you'll use it and how much you want to spend.

FJO Racing have a nice dual channel controller also which works with both Bosch and NTK sensors.

Good luck with your choice,
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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The PLX R-300 and HPT Pro are on order. Probably will not be until early summer before I figure out what to do with replacing my gauges. I am thinking that I will have the PLX centered above the steering column (showing mph, ECT, A/F ratio, and engine RPM) with a fuel level and oil pressure gauge located on either side of it. Will be anxious to get it up and running with the wideband in and running full time. My car never got retuned after going from stock unported throttlebody and LS1 intake to Fast 90 and NW 90. Still running the stock injectors and would not be surprised if I am maxed out on the injectors.

The R-300 will function as my main gauge and help me get these damn vehicles properly tuned before its permanent installation.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by chino_man279
The PLX R-300 and HPT Pro are on order. Probably will not be until early summer before I figure out what to do with replacing my gauges. I am thinking that I will have the PLX centered above the steering column (showing mph, ECT, A/F ratio, and engine RPM) with a fuel level and oil pressure gauge located on either side of it. Will be anxious to get it up and running with the wideband in and running full time. My car never got retuned after going from stock unported throttlebody and LS1 intake to Fast 90 and NW 90. Still running the stock injectors and would not be surprised if I am maxed out on the injectors.

The R-300 will function as my main gauge and help me get these damn vehicles properly tuned before its permanent installation.
I am looking at getting the PLX but won't need separate guages like you .... will just be using HPT with it....so I can go with the cheaper unit.

So are you going to place it in the front 02 sensor position or a separate bung???

DH
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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Dirty Howie...Once I am done diagnosing and tuning my V6 and my friend's LT1, the unit will be permanently installed in the front O2 bung. I will place it in whichever side runs leaner, so the PCM is adjusting for the leaner side of the motor. The PCM will read it as a narrowband and my PLX device will be outputting the wideband signal for display in place of my stock gauge cluster.

It will take some time to replace my gauges and have the PLX controller hooked up in place of the stock gauges. I will have to tap into the corresponding sensors that I want displayed by the PLX screen.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by chino_man279
the unit will be permanently installed in the front O2 bung. ......
This is what I want to do but many have said you must place it its own bung. Not sure why......maybe cause NB doesn't work right?????

DH
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 10:34 AM
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The PLX site said it will work both NB and WB. I am planning on doing the same, unless I find any reason I should not. Anyone else run both NB and WB from theirs?
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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Here's a chance to get the WB02 sensor that you want AND the Gauge for almost the same as the WB02 would cost (if we get 50 peeps)!

PLX SM-AFR AND Gauge GP prices.................
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by marthastewart
The PLX site said it will work both NB and WB. I am planning on doing the same, unless I find any reason I should not. Anyone else run both NB and WB from theirs?
I have the SM-AFR and use it for the narrowband and wideband. It's been flawless so far. I did a lot of googling and found more places saying to use your wideband as a narrowband than not, because:

- that is the environment it was designed to be in
- there are no problems with leaving it in the exhaust without it being turned on or in use (which will kill it quick)
- there are less chances of condensation problems (which will also kill it quick)
- there is no need to remove it when not in use and replace the open bung with a plug
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by LuvmyC5
Here's a chance to get the WB02 sensor that you want AND the Gauge for almost the same as the WB02 would cost (if we get 50 peeps)!

PLX SM-AFR AND Gauge GP prices.................

Look around. I only paid $259 for mine and didn't wait for anyone else to buy one. Unit alone is only $195.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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So if I am planning on buying the HPTuners pro, and I need to buy a wideband that I will be MOVING from vehicle to vehicle for tuning, which wideband would I need? (Like Chino, I need the lowest priced, quality unit)
Will I need a gauge, or would I just plug the wideband in the controller/laptop abd read it there??
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLE ROCKET
So if I am planning on buying the HPTuners pro, and I need to buy a wideband that I will be MOVING from vehicle to vehicle for tuning, which wideband would I need? (Like Chino, I need the lowest priced, quality unit)
Will I need a gauge, or would I just plug the wideband in the controller/laptop abd read it there??
Your best bet would be to do some googleing (is that a word?) to find out what is right for you. There are some widebands that plug in to the cigarette lighter for power, that would be a plus in your case. Of course, you could always just add the cigarette lighter plug to any of them. Find one that has the least amount of wiring and also can be used as a narrowband sensor (unless you want to weld a bung in every car you move it to).

No, you don't need a gauge. The gauge is just for keeping an eye on things after you are done tuning.

If you were to use a SM-AFR, you could add the cig plug. Then replace one of the NB O2s with the WB O2, but leave the NB connected to the original wiring and just hang it somewhere out of the way while tuning. You would have to tap in to the high side of the NB wiring going to the PCM (you could do this with one of those connectors that you squeeze onto the wire, like when you add trailer hitch wiring to a truck, I don't know what you call them, and then remove it when you are done). Then just find a good ground near where the PCM is grounded. And hook up the WB wire to your tuning controller. It's a lot easier than it sounds.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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Thanks for the reply
So is this the set-up that everyone that tunes multiple cars and incorporates a wideband uses?
If I use a gauge instead of running it through the laptop, can I just temporarly replace the NB sensor with the the WB sensor, and plug it in the factory plug, or does it have to have "custom" wiring each time you use it on another car?
I'm just trying to figure out how to use a wideband for tuning multiple cars/trucks
Thanks
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLE ROCKET
Thanks for the reply
So is this the set-up that everyone that tunes multiple cars and incorporates a wideband uses?
If I use a gauge instead of running it through the laptop, can I just temporarly replace the NB sensor with the the WB sensor, and plug it in the factory plug, or does it have to have "custom" wiring each time you use it on another car?
I'm just trying to figure out how to use a wideband for tuning multiple cars/trucks
Thanks
I told you wrong about one thing above. It doesn't have to double as a narrowband because you are going to be tuning in open loop anyway, so no need for a narrowband sensor until you are done tuning.

You can't tune with just the gauge. You have to log the AFR in the software to be able to change the parameters. So, all you would have to do is plug into the cig lighter for power, and put a ground at or near the PCM (you could use some type of alligator clip on it so it wouldn't be permanent). Other than substituting the wideband sensor for the narrowband sensor, that's it, because the wideband would already be wired to the HP Tuners.

That is a lot simpler, huh? Sorry for the confusion.
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