Originally Posted by Doc

Just pure curiosity and not to add further unrelated insult to your injury but might I ask why you don't have a bung welded in the the I section of your exhaust? Fwd of the QTP? Is the controller (not LM-1 indicator) in the vehicle or out?

No insult. I originally felt that it would be easier to take the readings from the tailpipe and not have to climb under the car each time I wanted to use my LM1. I bought the LM1 for portability. Pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by "controller"? The LM1 itself is mounted to the winshield using Innovates mount.

And just for further review...With the sensor disconnected from the controller and the serial o/p to usb adapter connected to your laptop to facilitate monitoring via logworks and programing via LM Programer, you get a connection, and the heater cal resets. Then after prescribed programing with the sensor hooked up you can watch the heater cal / and sensor cal processes succeed with a ~20.x free air reading.

Yes Sir... you are correct. I got a solid 20.9 O2 this morning on the second cal in free air. Heater cal appeared successful, as well.

From reading your previous posts all of this sounds like you are on this page by now. Having the system cal'd and ready implies proper grounding. I know you've pulled your hair out with verifying the programing... A sensor or controller is about all that is left. Just bad luck. Chad and Innovate will take care of you, that is for sure. Just give'm a chance.

I plan on picking up a new sensr tomorrow and will see what happens. Chad has been great and I look forward to working with him. I am sure my problems are because of my own ignorance.

Originally Posted by Doc

The black thingy that the sensor plugs into is the controller, which plugs in to the LM-1 indicator box thingy. Do yo have it just hanging out the door? My point is ruling out chaffed wires. I have my LC-1 controller permantly mounted right up next to my stock fuel filter and the wires are routed up through the drv's rear floor pan drain plug. As far as the getting up underneath the car part, ok, I think it is a worth while sacrifice for the gained accuracy, being further up in the exhaust stream(tho I donot feel this is your problem).

The controller has been in the car. I have the LM1 wiring run through the drivers compartment throught to the hatch area and hidden behind the plastic molding traveling down through the spare tire well. I removed the plastic plug in the bottem and routed it out to the tailpipe. The controller is inside the spare tire well. I will look to see if the wired are chaffed, however. You are right and I now agree about a more accurate reading using the bung.

Sorry to hear about your woes, the LM-1 usually works better for folks since the analog and heater ground issues are already taken care of via the indicator box.

That is why I decided on the LM1... portable and ease of use. I had read some stuff going on the the LC1's and having to ensure it was properly grounded, ect to work correctly. I know I can follow directions and get it up and running, but with all the wiring required I would be completely sure as to what I had done. When I do something I like to understand the "cause and effect" of the tasker. In other words if I do "this" what has it done the "that". And what other effects does it have on the various supporting and sub-systems... if that made any sence. LOL

Still, I might have missed it but, what were your results of forcing the LM-1 to output various voltage values (.5vdc, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0...)via LM programer and using EFI live to read the raw voltage with the "data" page? Furthermore if you have a dvm you could read the LM-1's o/p w/ it.

I have not forced the voltage values yet, however, I will do that today. I am also going to risk some money and pick up a new sensor. At the minimum I will have an extra.

I know this is frustrating, just trying to throw up ideas to keep the process going.