Need some help integrating LM1 into Flashscan V1
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Need some help integrating LM1 into Flashscan V1 I have been at this all day. I cannot get my LM1 and Flashscan AFR's to match. I have tried everything and searched this site, EFIlives forums, and Innovates forums.
Here are the PID's I have selected for the LM1
EXT.AD1
GM.AFR
CALC.AFR_LM11 (AFR)
CALC.AFR_LM11 (V)
CALC.BEN_LM11
I have modified the sae_generic (in notepad) to read:
# Innovate LM-1 WBO2
# ========================
*CLC-00-928
V 0.0 5.0 .1 "{EXT.AD1}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 .1 "{EXT.AD1}*2+10"
*CLC-00-929
factor 0.0 2.0 .1 "{CALC.AFR_LM11.AFR}/{GM.AFR}"
*CLC-00-930
V 0.0 5.0 .1 "{EXT.AD2}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 .1 "{EXT.AD2}*2+10"
*CLC-00-931
factor 0.0 2.0 .1 "{CALC.AFR_LM12.AFR}/{GM.AFR}"
and programmed the LM1 for 0v=10AFR and 5v=20AFR. I did this as a final resort and it still does not match up. The LM1 is reading leaner than EFIlive. My car is currently in OLSD and I am attempting to do AutoVe.
In the V1 interface I have the white wire in the "E" pin {EXT.AD1} and the copper wire in the "D" pin (common ground). One of the things I am unsure of is which wire is analog 1 and 2 on the LM1. White or Red?
I am ready to put the car back the way it was and smash this LM1 on driveway
Oh... I have no cats and am taking my readings from the tailpipe. Would that make that much of a difference?
HELP.......
R/
Frat
Here are the PID's I have selected for the LM1
EXT.AD1
GM.AFR
CALC.AFR_LM11 (AFR)
CALC.AFR_LM11 (V)
CALC.BEN_LM11
I have modified the sae_generic (in notepad) to read:
# Innovate LM-1 WBO2
# ========================
*CLC-00-928
V 0.0 5.0 .1 "{EXT.AD1}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 .1 "{EXT.AD1}*2+10"
*CLC-00-929
factor 0.0 2.0 .1 "{CALC.AFR_LM11.AFR}/{GM.AFR}"
*CLC-00-930
V 0.0 5.0 .1 "{EXT.AD2}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 .1 "{EXT.AD2}*2+10"
*CLC-00-931
factor 0.0 2.0 .1 "{CALC.AFR_LM12.AFR}/{GM.AFR}"
and programmed the LM1 for 0v=10AFR and 5v=20AFR. I did this as a final resort and it still does not match up. The LM1 is reading leaner than EFIlive. My car is currently in OLSD and I am attempting to do AutoVe.
In the V1 interface I have the white wire in the "E" pin {EXT.AD1} and the copper wire in the "D" pin (common ground). One of the things I am unsure of is which wire is analog 1 and 2 on the LM1. White or Red?
I am ready to put the car back the way it was and smash this LM1 on driveway
Oh... I have no cats and am taking my readings from the tailpipe. Would that make that much of a difference?
HELP.......
R/
Frat
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Alright... I am off to read the LC1 tutorial.
Based upon my description to I have the correct wiring going to the V1 interface.
Which color is analog 1 and which is analog 2?
Thanks for the offer of assistance. If I cant get it I will call after the New Year.
R/
Jeff
Based upon my description to I have the correct wiring going to the V1 interface.
Which color is analog 1 and which is analog 2?
Thanks for the offer of assistance. If I cant get it I will call after the New Year.
R/
Jeff
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Alright...
I read the LC1 tutorial and have programmed my LM1 IAW with the tutorial. The values came out to:
.879 volt at 10.00 AFR and 4.215 volt at 20.01 AFR and this is on the Analog Out 1 screen. I left the Analog Out 2 alone as I am not hooking a guage up.
Also, I am going to move my WBO2 sensor to one of the NBO2 sensor bungs while I am running in OLSD.
Now I just need to find out which wire represents AO1 and AO2. I suspect Analog Out 2 is white wire. I'll play around with it more on Monday.... and to think I was more worried about changing the OS and migrating my tune. That turned out to be a piece of cake compared to this.
Happy New Year to all.
R/
Frat
I read the LC1 tutorial and have programmed my LM1 IAW with the tutorial. The values came out to:
.879 volt at 10.00 AFR and 4.215 volt at 20.01 AFR and this is on the Analog Out 1 screen. I left the Analog Out 2 alone as I am not hooking a guage up.
Also, I am going to move my WBO2 sensor to one of the NBO2 sensor bungs while I am running in OLSD.
Now I just need to find out which wire represents AO1 and AO2. I suspect Analog Out 2 is white wire. I'll play around with it more on Monday.... and to think I was more worried about changing the OS and migrating my tune. That turned out to be a piece of cake compared to this.
Happy New Year to all.
R/
Frat
Hope this helps or is remotely what you are looking for...
Reference
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...LM1_Manual.pdf
Page 19
See attached for brief overview
I went to Radio Shack and made up a little jig for my friend that has a LM-1 so we could use my EFI Live with it. (He has Hptuners)
Reference
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...LM1_Manual.pdf
Page 19
See attached for brief overview
I went to Radio Shack and made up a little jig for my friend that has a LM-1 so we could use my EFI Live with it. (He has Hptuners)
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Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Originally Posted by Doc
Hope this helps or is remotely what you are looking for...
Reference
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...LM1_Manual.pdf
Page 19
See attached for brief overview
I went to Radio Shack and made up a little jig for my friend that has a LM-1 so we could use my EFI Live with it. (He has Hptuners)
Reference
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...LM1_Manual.pdf
Page 19
See attached for brief overview
I went to Radio Shack and made up a little jig for my friend that has a LM-1 so we could use my EFI Live with it. (He has Hptuners)
Yeah.. I have read all the LM1 Manuals and have them printed out. Thats where I need some feedback, which color wire represents A1 and A2..... I think I am gonna hook all three wires up and see which one logs the same as the readout on the LM1 using the LC1 pids and programming. I'll swap them from the different Pinouts if I need to, obviously keeping the ground the same.
Thanks again though and Happy New Year.
R/
Frat
Last edited by Fratsit; Dec 31, 2006 at 07:10 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Originally Posted by Black02SS
I think red is Analog 1 and white is analog 2. I just looked at mine and believe that is how it is setup.
White to "Pin E" and copper ground to "Pin D".
I reprogrammed the LM1 last night to match the LC1 tutorial. Here is a pic of how I have my LM1 pinned into Flashscan.
I will be at a New Years party tonight so I wont be able to play with it today. Too much going on and if I get started, knowing me, I wont stop. The wifeage has said
to playing with the car today.I will still be online though.
Thanks for all the assistance. I still plan on getting that RR from ya... just waiting on Uncle Sam to give me my money.
R/
Frat
Originally Posted by Fratsit
I am thinking the same thing and thats how I have it pinned to Flashscan.
White to "Pin E" and copper ground to "Pin D".
I reprogrammed the LM1 last night to match the LC1 tutorial. Here is a pic of how I have my LM1 pinned into Flashscan.
I will be at a New Years party tonight so I wont be able to play with it today. Too much going on and if I get started, knowing me, I wont stop. The wifeage has said to playing with the car today.
I will still be online though.
Thanks for all the assistance. I still plan on getting that RR from ya... just waiting on Uncle Sam to give me my money.
R/
Frat
White to "Pin E" and copper ground to "Pin D".
I reprogrammed the LM1 last night to match the LC1 tutorial. Here is a pic of how I have my LM1 pinned into Flashscan.
I will be at a New Years party tonight so I wont be able to play with it today. Too much going on and if I get started, knowing me, I wont stop. The wifeage has said
to playing with the car today.I will still be online though.
Thanks for all the assistance. I still plan on getting that RR from ya... just waiting on Uncle Sam to give me my money.
R/
Frat
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Originally Posted by Black02SS
Sounds good. I am stuck at home with the kids tonight as a few years ago we had a little too much fun on New Years Eve.
I do believe I am picking up what you are throwing down.
R/
Frat
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Originally Posted by billyjo
Mine is hooked up just like the picture.
Cool. I am gonna give this another shot tomorrow.
I'll talk to you all tomorrow and Happy New Years to all.
R/
Jeff
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Still is not working. I installed the sensor in the header bung... programed the LM1 IAW the LC1 tutorial.. did not work... reprogrammed the LM1 back to the factory defaults... still nothing.... did another free air cal before I installed in the bung and got 20.9 and yet when the car is running I am seeing anything from 70+ to 1, then 25:1, ect. I did not even bother to try and integrate EFIlive.
I have followed every tutorial, the Innovate instructions... moved the sensor from the tailpipe to the bung and I am no better off.
R/
Frat
I have followed every tutorial, the Innovate instructions... moved the sensor from the tailpipe to the bung and I am no better off.
R/
Frat
Last edited by Fratsit; Jan 2, 2007 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Removed unecessary comments.
Don't throw money at the problem. If it's a faulty WBO2 sensor or unit, then Innovate should work with you to get it right. I have done what you said above by programming my LM1 to 0v=10:1 and 5v=20:1 and changing the equation in the EFI live text file for BOTH LM1.1 and LM1.2. The next thing I did (to figure out which wire is the one I want to log) is I hooked up all 3 wires (ground in the middle) and logged both AD1 and AD2 along with LM1.1 and LM1.2. One AFR was spot on and one was way off. I left all of them hooked up and just logged the one that worked. You could also just program both outputs to be the same. Then, it wouldn't matter which wire was which assuming you don't need the NBO2 simulation...
Once you figure out which one to log, then you can test for ground variance. You need to program the LM1 to output a constant voltage...ie 2v=10:1 and 2v=20:1. Then, you log the raw voltage and see what EFI live reads. If it reads high (or lean), then your new equation is:
((EXT.AD1 - Variance)*2)+10
If it read lower, you would add the variance. The trick is to do this for several difference voltages (ie 2v, 3v, 4v, etc.) to get a good idea if there is any variance at different levels. I would think it should be fairly consistent.
Adjust your equation accordingly and it should be close. Then, reprogram the LM1 back to the 0v=10:1 and 5v=20:1.
Another thing you can do while you're programming is to slow down the output of the analog signal as much as you can. What that will do is average out the numbers a little bit. That's in the advanced settings I believe.
The LM1 digital readout will always be the most accurate because of the type of connection. But, you can get the analog signals close. It just takes a little know-how.
Once you figure out which one to log, then you can test for ground variance. You need to program the LM1 to output a constant voltage...ie 2v=10:1 and 2v=20:1. Then, you log the raw voltage and see what EFI live reads. If it reads high (or lean), then your new equation is:
((EXT.AD1 - Variance)*2)+10
If it read lower, you would add the variance. The trick is to do this for several difference voltages (ie 2v, 3v, 4v, etc.) to get a good idea if there is any variance at different levels. I would think it should be fairly consistent.
Adjust your equation accordingly and it should be close. Then, reprogram the LM1 back to the 0v=10:1 and 5v=20:1.
Another thing you can do while you're programming is to slow down the output of the analog signal as much as you can. What that will do is average out the numbers a little bit. That's in the advanced settings I believe.
The LM1 digital readout will always be the most accurate because of the type of connection. But, you can get the analog signals close. It just takes a little know-how.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Sorry guys... just frustrated here. I have removed some of my comments from earlier...
I have put the car back in CL-MAF so I have some transportation.
The thing was working fine a month ago. I handle the sensor like its fine china. Obviously if its broken, its because I did something.... I just cant figure out what.
I normally have the sensor in the tailpipe using the clamp from Innovate. The last time I used it (over a month ago) I got an Error 8 when I went WOT. Could I have jacked up the sensor?
Chad,
I will call you tomorrow. Any particular time?
R/
Jeff
I have put the car back in CL-MAF so I have some transportation.
The thing was working fine a month ago. I handle the sensor like its fine china. Obviously if its broken, its because I did something.... I just cant figure out what.
I normally have the sensor in the tailpipe using the clamp from Innovate. The last time I used it (over a month ago) I got an Error 8 when I went WOT. Could I have jacked up the sensor?
Chad,
I will call you tomorrow. Any particular time?
R/
Jeff
Last edited by Fratsit; Jan 2, 2007 at 05:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Brookings, South Dakota
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
The LM1 digital readout will always be the most accurate because of the type of connection. But, you can get the analog signals close. It just takes a little know-how.
EDIT: Ya know... as I sit here and retrace my actions I do recollect leaving the LM1 on and the car off and I do remember seeing a considerable amount of condensation coming out of the tailpipe when I started the car. I did that more than once.
I just cross referenced a new sensor at NAPA.com and found it for $67.00. I think I may pick one up in the morning.
R/
Frat
Last edited by Fratsit; Jan 2, 2007 at 08:41 PM.