Using the MAF when maxed out
Using the MAF when maxed out So oil from the sts killed my stock MAF.. I have a delphi 85mm MAF that I bought a long time ago and never used.
I know jimmyblue is using this one with a known table so its not crap like the slp.
My question is does the table matter since Im going to max it out with boost anyway? Ill have to get 511 and work my way down correct?
I read that the fbody MAF is the best to use if your going to max it out and trick it because it reads the highest lbs/Hz. Will the 85mm work as well?
I have the 2bar map sensor at home and Im sending off for 2 bar support but until then I want to kinda play with it as it is. I havent decided If I really want to use 2bar or not..
I have school and work and I dont know if I have time to do a 2bar tune. If anyone out there is willing to help me get started on it that would be great..
Also I have the old serial cable right now and its gives me the option to choose 2bar and I did and it shows me up to 210kpa.. I assume The the scanner is the part that you have to upgrade? How does that work
thanks
I know jimmyblue is using this one with a known table so its not crap like the slp.
My question is does the table matter since Im going to max it out with boost anyway? Ill have to get 511 and work my way down correct?
I read that the fbody MAF is the best to use if your going to max it out and trick it because it reads the highest lbs/Hz. Will the 85mm work as well?
I have the 2bar map sensor at home and Im sending off for 2 bar support but until then I want to kinda play with it as it is. I havent decided If I really want to use 2bar or not..
I have school and work and I dont know if I have time to do a 2bar tune. If anyone out there is willing to help me get started on it that would be great..
Also I have the old serial cable right now and its gives me the option to choose 2bar and I did and it shows me up to 210kpa.. I assume The the scanner is the part that you have to upgrade? How does that work
thanks
I believe the old serial interface upgrade stuff is all listed on your customer login page...I believe you need to send the file to hpt & they send you a new download with your new license added.
85mm hits 12kHz at 459g/sec vs 511g/sec for the
LS1/Holden MAF. That's about 10% less range. The
earlier model years don't even let you get to 12kHz
in the tables (one of various reasons to want a
'01-'02 OS).
Realistically a descreened 75mm ought to be plenty
good enough and cost very little to manifold pressure
(like zero if you have a manifold referenced boost
control of some sort, except maybe at the very top
end).
When you say killed, is this as in "killed and cleaning
didn't work"? The oil crust should not be a permanent
thing (just a maintenance chore).
LS1/Holden MAF. That's about 10% less range. The
earlier model years don't even let you get to 12kHz
in the tables (one of various reasons to want a
'01-'02 OS).
Realistically a descreened 75mm ought to be plenty
good enough and cost very little to manifold pressure
(like zero if you have a manifold referenced boost
control of some sort, except maybe at the very top
end).
When you say killed, is this as in "killed and cleaning
didn't work"? The oil crust should not be a permanent
thing (just a maintenance chore).
foff667... Thats what I was thinking but it lets me create the .bin and put it in the pcm.. However the logger doesnt go up that much map so I didnt try and run it.
Jimmyblue.. I thought I had seen you post that the 85 wouldnt read as many g/s at 12k..Looking at redhardsupras spreadsheet it showed it maxing early as well.. Also I remember seeing you say something about the holden populating the the values all the way up to 12k instead of flatlining.. I assume this maf wouldnt help either since I can just change the values myself with a calibration.
I tried cleaning it several times. Cleaned with a q-tip several times but it decides to all the sudden spike on me and gas bad rich issues when just riding around.
thanks
Jimmyblue.. I thought I had seen you post that the 85 wouldnt read as many g/s at 12k..Looking at redhardsupras spreadsheet it showed it maxing early as well.. Also I remember seeing you say something about the holden populating the the values all the way up to 12k instead of flatlining.. I assume this maf wouldnt help either since I can just change the values myself with a calibration.
I tried cleaning it several times. Cleaned with a q-tip several times but it decides to all the sudden spike on me and gas bad rich issues when just riding around.
thanks
Im looking toward that. I have already bought the map sensor for 2bar.. I cant believe Im maxing out my MAF at 67lbs/min with only 6 psi... I suppose the heads and cam make the difference.
Also maxing out my injectors (42lbers)... I thought they were good a little past 500rwhp...
Also maxing out my injectors (42lbers)... I thought they were good a little past 500rwhp...
Trending Topics
I suppose just poor design of the return system. I checked the play in the turbo to see if it was the ??? Cant think what its called but I know the turbo doesnt have seals but more like piston rings... Wasnt that..
I then checked the line for kinks and I didnt see any real kinks although the hose is really shitty and the zip ties looked to be kinda tight in places so maybe that helped out..
Anyway.. I have currently redone a few thins on the return lines.
1st I changed the hose that went over the rear and and made it go straight to the pump (under the rear end). Gave it enough slack so when the rear end dropped it wouldnt pull it loose. Seems to work much better like that.
That worked for a while but still got some oil in the pipes.. Now I have braided lines running to the front and going into the bottom drivers side of the timing cover..
It looks and works much better and now I can put a breather on the oil cap to help out with venting.. Plus when I raised my hood everyone looked at me like I was retarted with a hose going to my oil cap... They always said.... " So you must have made this kit yourself condisering there as hose in the oil cap." Im like nope thats sts
I then checked the line for kinks and I didnt see any real kinks although the hose is really shitty and the zip ties looked to be kinda tight in places so maybe that helped out..
Anyway.. I have currently redone a few thins on the return lines.
1st I changed the hose that went over the rear and and made it go straight to the pump (under the rear end). Gave it enough slack so when the rear end dropped it wouldnt pull it loose. Seems to work much better like that.
That worked for a while but still got some oil in the pipes.. Now I have braided lines running to the front and going into the bottom drivers side of the timing cover..
It looks and works much better and now I can put a breather on the oil cap to help out with venting.. Plus when I raised my hood everyone looked at me like I was retarted with a hose going to my oil cap... They always said.... " So you must have made this kit yourself condisering there as hose in the oil cap." Im like nope thats sts
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo OH.. From my experience the pcv system was **** as well. The solenoid didnt work and caused my crank case pressurize and either blow a seal or kill the oil pressure sending unit.
Im only holding around 10psi are idle.. Use to be 40 psi
Im going to have to pull the trans and take a look at the seals.. 1st I suppose ill check the opsu and make sure it didnt go bad but I doubt thats it.
Seems kinda weird tho because i remote started it one day got in the care and had 0 oil pressure.. It had been started for around 10 mins... Should have done some bad damage at that point. As soon as I put my foot on the gas it popped up to around 20..
I need to get around to taking putting pics up of the install.
I know you just done the same thing. How is everything going? I have read your install thread and dont think I seen any problems yet.
Are you maxing out your maf? IF not how many g/s are you seeing?
Im only holding around 10psi are idle.. Use to be 40 psi
Im going to have to pull the trans and take a look at the seals.. 1st I suppose ill check the opsu and make sure it didnt go bad but I doubt thats it.
Seems kinda weird tho because i remote started it one day got in the care and had 0 oil pressure.. It had been started for around 10 mins... Should have done some bad damage at that point. As soon as I put my foot on the gas it popped up to around 20..
I need to get around to taking putting pics up of the install.
I know you just done the same thing. How is everything going? I have read your install thread and dont think I seen any problems yet.
Are you maxing out your maf? IF not how many g/s are you seeing?
Take this as fact, I also had oil in my MAF:
There is a check valve in the oil line going into the turbo. The first design was very poor and ends up leaking. When you discover it, call STS. They will send you a new one under warranty (read free). It is a complete redesign and will not leak. Do this immediately, do not run your car until you replace it. It is located on top of the turbo, and is a pain to get at. But it is worth it.
There is a check valve in the oil line going into the turbo. The first design was very poor and ends up leaking. When you discover it, call STS. They will send you a new one under warranty (read free). It is a complete redesign and will not leak. Do this immediately, do not run your car until you replace it. It is located on top of the turbo, and is a pain to get at. But it is worth it.
I have been told this but I removed in it and checked it but it didnt seem to be an issue. I was told to try and blow in it and if I couldnt then it was ok..
Ill call them tomorrow and get the new one anyway. Just to make sure.
thanks
Ill call them tomorrow and get the new one anyway. Just to make sure.
thanks
