DTC reset
DTC reset Hi,
I replaced an LS1 with an LS2 motor in a 99 camaro.
when doing this I needed to move the cam sensor from the front to the back.
now I get a DTC cam sensor error. I think it is probably the wiring is reversed or something. My question is how do I reset the DTC codes in the PCM?
I am running EFILive.
thankx
Al
I replaced an LS1 with an LS2 motor in a 99 camaro.
when doing this I needed to move the cam sensor from the front to the back.
now I get a DTC cam sensor error. I think it is probably the wiring is reversed or something. My question is how do I reset the DTC codes in the PCM?
I am running EFILive.
thankx
Al
FormerVendor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
You should confirm whether or not you have an actual physical problem. There were some cam extension harnesses where the wires were reversed. You can check with Katech on the proper wiring (I can't remember at the moment). With EFILive, the scan can display and reset DTC's. Use 'Info' on the menu. There are several options for viewing and resetting DTC's.
Originally Posted by John-SDPC
You should confirm whether or not you have an actual physical problem. There were some cam extension harnesses where the wires were reversed. You can check with Katech on the proper wiring (I can't remember at the moment). With EFILive, the scan can display and reset DTC's. Use 'Info' on the menu. There are several options for viewing and resetting DTC's.
I extended the wires my self so more than likely the wires are reversed.
The problem is, there are three wires so 9 combo's.
I have the wiring dig for the LS1 sensor, but not sure what the wiring is for the LS2 sensor.
As for the DTC reset, I can only find a way to read them not reset. Maybe I'm missing something? If I get the wires right will it reset on it's own?
Al
Last edited by STKN1STGEAR; Jan 28, 2007 at 05:06 PM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,036
Likes: 1
From: Lake Zurich, IL
Can anyone post up a pic of their cam sensor plug (maybe w/the wires exposed so we can see the colors?) or does anyone know what order the wires should go?
I'm assuming there's a ground (so you can test for that), a +5volt signal (so you can test for that), and last wire should be signal (probably same color as the signal wire from the PCM)
so if someone could post the order (+/s/- or whatever order it is) should help ( I checked my pics from my head/cam install w/the intake manifold off but didn't find any good zoomed pics of the back of the engine)
I'll try looking it up in my helms manual later tonight, see if it provides more detail
regarding the reset... it will turn off on it's own after it detects a good signal (may have to see it twice or over a period of time)
You can clear the DTC manually by putting key in run position, remove PCM IGN and PCM BAT fuses (at this point I usually power cycle the keya few times, off run off run) after about 10 seconds put fuses back in and PCM should be cleared of codes
You may need to do a CASE learn also after everything's all set
I'm assuming there's a ground (so you can test for that), a +5volt signal (so you can test for that), and last wire should be signal (probably same color as the signal wire from the PCM)
so if someone could post the order (+/s/- or whatever order it is) should help ( I checked my pics from my head/cam install w/the intake manifold off but didn't find any good zoomed pics of the back of the engine)
I'll try looking it up in my helms manual later tonight, see if it provides more detail
regarding the reset... it will turn off on it's own after it detects a good signal (may have to see it twice or over a period of time)
You can clear the DTC manually by putting key in run position, remove PCM IGN and PCM BAT fuses (at this point I usually power cycle the keya few times, off run off run) after about 10 seconds put fuses back in and PCM should be cleared of codes
You may need to do a CASE learn also after everything's all set
Originally Posted by horist
Can anyone post up a pic of their cam sensor plug (maybe w/the wires exposed so we can see the colors?) or does anyone know what order the wires should go?
I'm assuming there's a ground (so you can test for that), a +5volt signal (so you can test for that), and last wire should be signal (probably same color as the signal wire from the PCM)
so if someone could post the order (+/s/- or whatever order it is) should help ( I checked my pics from my head/cam install w/the intake manifold off but didn't find any good zoomed pics of the back of the engine)
I'll try looking it up in my helms manual later tonight, see if it provides more detail
regarding the reset... it will turn off on it's own after it detects a good signal (may have to see it twice or over a period of time)
You can clear the DTC manually by putting key in run position, remove PCM IGN and PCM BAT fuses (at this point I usually power cycle the keya few times, off run off run) after about 10 seconds put fuses back in and PCM should be cleared of codes
You may need to do a CASE learn also after everything's all set
I'm assuming there's a ground (so you can test for that), a +5volt signal (so you can test for that), and last wire should be signal (probably same color as the signal wire from the PCM)
so if someone could post the order (+/s/- or whatever order it is) should help ( I checked my pics from my head/cam install w/the intake manifold off but didn't find any good zoomed pics of the back of the engine)
I'll try looking it up in my helms manual later tonight, see if it provides more detail
regarding the reset... it will turn off on it's own after it detects a good signal (may have to see it twice or over a period of time)
You can clear the DTC manually by putting key in run position, remove PCM IGN and PCM BAT fuses (at this point I usually power cycle the keya few times, off run off run) after about 10 seconds put fuses back in and PCM should be cleared of codes
You may need to do a CASE learn also after everything's all set
----|___ red
Tab |___ pnk/blk
side |___ brn/wht
----
I tested all the connection the only one I know for sure is the 12 volt + wire coming from the car.
I'll see if I can get the wiring diag for the LS1 uploaded
Al
Last edited by STKN1STGEAR; Jan 28, 2007 at 10:56 PM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,036
Likes: 1
From: Lake Zurich, IL
can you post a bigger image? I couldn't make anything out in that pic .... I won't be able to look at my helms manuals till tomorrow... but I promise I will check them out to see if they have anything that can help
Given your diagram earlier:
----|___ red
Tab |___ pnk/blk
side |___ brn/wht
if I were to guess on proper order... I would say that red is likely the +5v (automotive wiring isn't the same as home wiring "standards")
so that leaves the pink/black or brown/white as the wires to consider
My "guess" would be that red is +5 volt, pink/black is ground, and brown/white is signal ... given that... you should be able to use a volt meter to determine which wire from the original harness is +5 (should be constant)
at least this changes it from 6 permutations to just 2 ...
If i were to guess on them all... i would go red = +5, pnk/blk = ground , brn/wht = signal
(with three variables there are only 6 combos... (3*2*1) RBW RWB WRB WBR BRW BWR where R = Red, W=brn/wht, B =pnk/blk)
Given your diagram earlier:
----|___ red
Tab |___ pnk/blk
side |___ brn/wht
if I were to guess on proper order... I would say that red is likely the +5v (automotive wiring isn't the same as home wiring "standards")
so that leaves the pink/black or brown/white as the wires to consider
My "guess" would be that red is +5 volt, pink/black is ground, and brown/white is signal ... given that... you should be able to use a volt meter to determine which wire from the original harness is +5 (should be constant)
at least this changes it from 6 permutations to just 2 ...
If i were to guess on them all... i would go red = +5, pnk/blk = ground , brn/wht = signal
(with three variables there are only 6 combos... (3*2*1) RBW RWB WRB WBR BRW BWR where R = Red, W=brn/wht, B =pnk/blk)
Last edited by horist; Jan 28, 2007 at 11:33 PM.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by horist
can you post a bigger image? I couldn't make anything out in that pic .... I won't be able to look at my helms manuals till tomorrow... but I promise I will check them out to see if they have anything that can help
Given your diagram earlier:
----|___ red
Tab |___ pnk/blk
side |___ brn/wht
if I were to guess on proper order... I would say that red is likely the +5v (automotive wiring isn't the same as home wiring "standards")
so that leaves the pink/black or brown/white as the wires to consider
My "guess" would be that red is +5 volt, pink/black is ground, and brown/white is signal ... given that... you should be able to use a volt meter to determine which wire from the original harness is +5 (should be constant)
at least this changes it from 6 permutations to just 2 ...
If i were to guess on them all... i would go red = +5, pnk/blk = ground , brn/wht = signal
(with three variables there are only 6 combos... (3*2*1) RBW RWB WRB WBR BRW BWR where R = Red, W=brn/wht, B =pnk/blk)
Given your diagram earlier:
----|___ red
Tab |___ pnk/blk
side |___ brn/wht
if I were to guess on proper order... I would say that red is likely the +5v (automotive wiring isn't the same as home wiring "standards")
so that leaves the pink/black or brown/white as the wires to consider
My "guess" would be that red is +5 volt, pink/black is ground, and brown/white is signal ... given that... you should be able to use a volt meter to determine which wire from the original harness is +5 (should be constant)
at least this changes it from 6 permutations to just 2 ...
If i were to guess on them all... i would go red = +5, pnk/blk = ground , brn/wht = signal
(with three variables there are only 6 combos... (3*2*1) RBW RWB WRB WBR BRW BWR where R = Red, W=brn/wht, B =pnk/blk)
it isn't +5 it is +12 coming from the car to the sensor. I agree ( at least at this point) that the red is the input to the sensor of + 12, bur I don't find a ground. will look more tommorrow. As for the image, I tried to uplaod a bigger one but it was to big so this is what we havr to work from. I cam translate if needed?
Thx
Al
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,036
Likes: 1
From: Lake Zurich, IL
send the bigger image to my email (in sig mike crap input @ crap input horist (dot) com
+5 (most sensors use a 5volt reference on a 12 volt system) is usual for most sensors... but +12 is also posible....
+5 (most sensors use a 5volt reference on a 12 volt system) is usual for most sensors... but +12 is also posible....
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Thx
Al
